Hot Bodies Cyclone
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Personally, I don't like the way thinner oil feels outdoors though. The car is WAY more consistent with the thicker oil. Indoors I tend to go lighter though.
-Korey
I use Team Losi shock oil, and I think it runs just a tiny bit thicker (2.5-5.0wt???) than AE oil. I would start with 45 or 50wt oil, and see how that goes. Right now since I'm running on a really tight indoor carpet track, I'm running Losi 37.5 . Hiro likes to call this "Magic Oil" because he really likes it a lot, but it seems to work good when you need your car to react really quick.
Personally, I don't like the way thinner oil feels outdoors though. The car is WAY more consistent with the thicker oil. Indoors I tend to go lighter though.
-Korey
Personally, I don't like the way thinner oil feels outdoors though. The car is WAY more consistent with the thicker oil. Indoors I tend to go lighter though.
-Korey
Can you share your indoor carpet set up? Rubbers?
Thanks!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Sure thing!
Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 1.5mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF and FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 6mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, DCJ's
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm, .7mm behind (this is needed when using the different suspension block modification).
Wheel Hex: thin
Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm with 4mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard
Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Jaco Blue
Body: Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 with HB Subaru Wing
Notes:
If you don't want to do the suspension block modification, I've found running the shock in hole #1 on the front suspension arm with the standard suspension blocks works really good too. It gives a somewhat similar feeling and is worth a try. Just combine it with a 0 deg toe block to take out the arm sweep, and use a standard wheel hex.
This setup is for a med-high grip carpet track.
Happy Racing!
-Korey
Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 1.5mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF and FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 6mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, DCJ's
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm, .7mm behind (this is needed when using the different suspension block modification).
Wheel Hex: thin
Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm with 4mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard
Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Jaco Blue
Body: Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 with HB Subaru Wing
Notes:
If you don't want to do the suspension block modification, I've found running the shock in hole #1 on the front suspension arm with the standard suspension blocks works really good too. It gives a somewhat similar feeling and is worth a try. Just combine it with a 0 deg toe block to take out the arm sweep, and use a standard wheel hex.
This setup is for a med-high grip carpet track.
Happy Racing!
-Korey
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
-Korey
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Thanks
Thank You Korey!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Anytime buddy
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
I usually look at the front wheels when mounting up my body. When the axles are in the exact center of the front wheel wells, think of that as 0mm. When I mount my bodies forward (which is almost all the time!), I go about 2-3mm forward for tight indoor tracks, and usually 0mm for everything else.
-Korey
-Korey
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Its pretty small. I usually find other ways to get steering if I have too.
-Korey
-Korey
Tech Adept
BRCA 1350g weight
Hi Newbie here,
I recently gone from a TRF416 to a cyclone TC, so here I am!!!
This is more for UK racers ( unless other countrys have 1350g minimum weights limits) just wondering any one is any where near the 1350 mark? and any effects on handling or set-up chnages?
I am using an Exotek chassis which has had the front milled so I can swap the belts, I ve then moved all the radio gear as far inside as possible, the reciever its in the middle and esc not far off, but the tall fan and carbon center rail on the exotek chassis stops it going any further in. With this and the Li-po's sitting as far as they can out the chassis ( about 2mm over the edge on the stnadard chassis) with this the back end is spot on, lifting with a knife edge in the centre; the front end is a bit out with the left wheel ( looking from the front toward the rear) lifting first. SO the motor corner is it the heaviest. I ve also made carbon battery stays rather than the weighted exotek ones.
With this and demon 4000 30c I weigh in at 1400g, I can save a bit on wireing ( which will also lower the motor areas weight)
Any experiance with losing weight or how far out you are sitting your cells over standard would be useful, and I will up date as well: I think I may the balence sorted if I move the cells to the forward position.
cheers!!
M
I recently gone from a TRF416 to a cyclone TC, so here I am!!!
This is more for UK racers ( unless other countrys have 1350g minimum weights limits) just wondering any one is any where near the 1350 mark? and any effects on handling or set-up chnages?
I am using an Exotek chassis which has had the front milled so I can swap the belts, I ve then moved all the radio gear as far inside as possible, the reciever its in the middle and esc not far off, but the tall fan and carbon center rail on the exotek chassis stops it going any further in. With this and the Li-po's sitting as far as they can out the chassis ( about 2mm over the edge on the stnadard chassis) with this the back end is spot on, lifting with a knife edge in the centre; the front end is a bit out with the left wheel ( looking from the front toward the rear) lifting first. SO the motor corner is it the heaviest. I ve also made carbon battery stays rather than the weighted exotek ones.
With this and demon 4000 30c I weigh in at 1400g, I can save a bit on wireing ( which will also lower the motor areas weight)
Any experiance with losing weight or how far out you are sitting your cells over standard would be useful, and I will up date as well: I think I may the balence sorted if I move the cells to the forward position.
cheers!!
M
Hi Newbie here,
I recently gone from a TRF416 to a cyclone TC, so here I am!!!
This is more for UK racers ( unless other countrys have 1350g minimum weights limits) just wondering any one is any where near the 1350 mark? and any effects on handling or set-up chnages?
I am using an Exotek chassis which has had the front milled so I can swap the belts, I ve then moved all the radio gear as far inside as possible, the reciever its in the middle and esc not far off, but the tall fan and carbon center rail on the exotek chassis stops it going any further in. With this and the Li-po's sitting as far as they can out the chassis ( about 2mm over the edge on the stnadard chassis) with this the back end is spot on, lifting with a knife edge in the centre; the front end is a bit out with the left wheel ( looking from the front toward the rear) lifting first. SO the motor corner is it the heaviest. I ve also made carbon battery stays rather than the weighted exotek ones.
With this and demon 4000 30c I weigh in at 1400g, I can save a bit on wireing ( which will also lower the motor areas weight)
Any experiance with losing weight or how far out you are sitting your cells over standard would be useful, and I will up date as well: I think I may the balence sorted if I move the cells to the forward position.
cheers!!
M
I recently gone from a TRF416 to a cyclone TC, so here I am!!!
This is more for UK racers ( unless other countrys have 1350g minimum weights limits) just wondering any one is any where near the 1350 mark? and any effects on handling or set-up chnages?
I am using an Exotek chassis which has had the front milled so I can swap the belts, I ve then moved all the radio gear as far inside as possible, the reciever its in the middle and esc not far off, but the tall fan and carbon center rail on the exotek chassis stops it going any further in. With this and the Li-po's sitting as far as they can out the chassis ( about 2mm over the edge on the stnadard chassis) with this the back end is spot on, lifting with a knife edge in the centre; the front end is a bit out with the left wheel ( looking from the front toward the rear) lifting first. SO the motor corner is it the heaviest. I ve also made carbon battery stays rather than the weighted exotek ones.
With this and demon 4000 30c I weigh in at 1400g, I can save a bit on wireing ( which will also lower the motor areas weight)
Any experiance with losing weight or how far out you are sitting your cells over standard would be useful, and I will up date as well: I think I may the balence sorted if I move the cells to the forward position.
cheers!!
M
I to have used a Extotek chassis, but have found it to be inconsitant on carpet as imo its to narrow and to thin, as it has to much flex in it. So am having a new made 6mm wider, and made from 2.4mm.
I can get the standard TC dwn lower than 1300 balanced, but even at 1350 the car dnt feel right, so have gone bak to 1420 where the car work pretty gd. Also off to snowbirds soon where the limit is 1420 anyways
Malc
carpet season is starting to brew in my neck of the woods, i currently got myself a black version cyclone, I emailed hotbodies to ck if the 3.6mm chassis will fit. Unfortunately it will not. My question is, who else makes a thicker chassis( it's going to be for foam) or who else makes a thicker chassis. I know BMI used to make em> Maybe korey or hiro can help out. Thanks
carpet season is starting to brew in my neck of the woods, i currently got myself a black version cyclone, I emailed hotbodies to ck if the 3.6mm chassis will fit. Unfortunately it will not. My question is, who else makes a thicker chassis( it's going to be for foam) or who else makes a thicker chassis. I know BMI used to make em> Maybe korey or hiro can help out. Thanks
Did somebody at HB answered that it won't fit with your black (original) cyclone? If so, that is incorrect answer....
Yes, the 3.6mm thickness main chassis and 2.5mm upper deck both will fit on your car with no problem. If i remember right, they both were in stock 2weeks ago so they are most likely available.
Thanks,