Hot Bodies Cyclone
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
I'm keeping the Tamiya for the Reedy and we'll see what happens from there. I'm just in it for the fun these days. Club racing will be fun this season. Just remember that the King of the straight is back. No more running you know what
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
I tried that in onroad nitro .12 racing, on not so technical ad high speed track I loved it
Tech Apprentice
Hiya
First post here so be gentle
I have ran brushed for a long time now and ive decided on going brushless with my cyclone TC , i decided to go for 13.5t speed passion combo , but im not quite sure how to gear it at the moment
The tracks i run are a small indoor carpet track and a slightly larger outdoor asphalt track , currently i only have a 84t spur and 23t pinion with all the standard pulleys , i want to get some new gears but dont want to end up buying all the wrong ones , so im after a rough guide as to what range of spur/pinions i should get...
Also i do have the brushless motor mounts if that makes any difference
oh and also both carpet and outdoor tracks i run rubber and 7.4v 5000 lipo
Thanks for any help/advice its really appriecated because i am lost
Mark
First post here so be gentle
I have ran brushed for a long time now and ive decided on going brushless with my cyclone TC , i decided to go for 13.5t speed passion combo , but im not quite sure how to gear it at the moment
The tracks i run are a small indoor carpet track and a slightly larger outdoor asphalt track , currently i only have a 84t spur and 23t pinion with all the standard pulleys , i want to get some new gears but dont want to end up buying all the wrong ones , so im after a rough guide as to what range of spur/pinions i should get...
Also i do have the brushless motor mounts if that makes any difference
oh and also both carpet and outdoor tracks i run rubber and 7.4v 5000 lipo
Thanks for any help/advice its really appriecated because i am lost
Mark
I ran my car for between 5-10mins and i checked the temp , i have no thermometer so i just touched it with my thumb , i cud only hold it on there 2-3 secs , it seems to run too hot or is it just me ?? , i even turned the motor timing down to the lowest and is still very hot , also i have got the over heat protection setting 'on' on my speed control but this didnt kick in
am i worrying about nothing ??
Cool thanks for the info everyone at my local HS told me no way would it be driveable but honestly when I bought my very first TC and got into this sport I had purchased a Redcat Lightning and all they told me was it will never be competitive . Shows how much they know i finished 3rd in my first race ever LOL.
Tech Adept
I am letting you guys know I am getting rid of my worlds edition. It comes with a PPD tweak plate aluminum steering knuckles(3 racing) extra belts all the pulleys and center-one way etc any questions I will post pics in the FS thread later just seeing if it draws interest here.
thanks
Chris
thanks
Chris
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Well
Finally tested my fully upgraded cyclone "S" at the track over re layout that will be used on next race may 17th. I'm using 18t center pulley/one way.
I used maxamps 4.700mah nimh batts and novak ss pro 13.5 brushless motor on novak gtb speed. As it's not illegal to use 13mm rotor here and many people use it, I decide to install it. After various tests starting on 4.67 fdr on 8 minutes racing pace rounds, I ended using 68t spur and 36t pinion and 55 degrees Celsius speed temperature on 4.09 fdr for me seems too much but the car feels great and the temps are good what you think ?
BTW, im upgrading my whole chassis buying the 3Racing graphite chassis for cyclone sport + front graphite tower for cyclone sport + rear graphite tower for cyclone sport but i cant find in stock the upper deck for cyclone sport so ... its impossible to fit the normal upper deck carbon fibre on the cyclone S chassis ?
Thanks
Finally tested my fully upgraded cyclone "S" at the track over re layout that will be used on next race may 17th. I'm using 18t center pulley/one way.
I used maxamps 4.700mah nimh batts and novak ss pro 13.5 brushless motor on novak gtb speed. As it's not illegal to use 13mm rotor here and many people use it, I decide to install it. After various tests starting on 4.67 fdr on 8 minutes racing pace rounds, I ended using 68t spur and 36t pinion and 55 degrees Celsius speed temperature on 4.09 fdr for me seems too much but the car feels great and the temps are good what you think ?
BTW, im upgrading my whole chassis buying the 3Racing graphite chassis for cyclone sport + front graphite tower for cyclone sport + rear graphite tower for cyclone sport but i cant find in stock the upper deck for cyclone sport so ... its impossible to fit the normal upper deck carbon fibre on the cyclone S chassis ?
Thanks
Last edited by Tabushi; 05-03-2009 at 09:16 PM.
Tech Apprentice
Well i have got the speed passion 13.5 combo , i decided to get a 78t spur/36t Pinion and are 48DP , it works out at 4.68 FDR....
I ran my car for between 5-10mins and i checked the temp , i have no thermometer so i just touched it with my thumb , i cud only hold it on there 2-3 secs , it seems to run too hot or is it just me ?? , i even turned the motor timing down to the lowest and is still very hot , also i have got the over heat protection setting 'on' on my speed control but this didnt kick in
am i worrying about nothing ??
I ran my car for between 5-10mins and i checked the temp , i have no thermometer so i just touched it with my thumb , i cud only hold it on there 2-3 secs , it seems to run too hot or is it just me ?? , i even turned the motor timing down to the lowest and is still very hot , also i have got the over heat protection setting 'on' on my speed control but this didnt kick in
am i worrying about nothing ??
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Well i have got the speed passion 13.5 combo , i decided to get a 78t spur/36t Pinion and are 48DP , it works out at 4.68 FDR....
I ran my car for between 5-10mins and i checked the temp , i have no thermometer so i just touched it with my thumb , i cud only hold it on there 2-3 secs , it seems to run too hot or is it just me ?? , i even turned the motor timing down to the lowest and is still very hot , also i have got the over heat protection setting 'on' on my speed control but this didnt kick in
am i worrying about nothing ??
I ran my car for between 5-10mins and i checked the temp , i have no thermometer so i just touched it with my thumb , i cud only hold it on there 2-3 secs , it seems to run too hot or is it just me ?? , i even turned the motor timing down to the lowest and is still very hot , also i have got the over heat protection setting 'on' on my speed control but this didnt kick in
am i worrying about nothing ??
Tech Adept
Sorry guys, looks like I missed that post.
Arm sweep is pretty useful, but it changes a few things all at once. It changes the angle of the inner hinge pins in relation to the center line of the chassis (kinda like this: \ /) , and as a result it shortens the wheelbase, and changes the steering geometry as well. If you want to isolate all the other changes it does, you'll have to change your ackerman and wheelbase accordingly. To be perfectly honest, I never do that...
If you weren't going to change anything else but the front toe block it would do as follows: Adding arm sweep will make the car enter the corner a tiny bit smoother, and create a noticeable increase in steering at the apex/middle of the corner. When you take arm sweep out, it makes the car turn in a little bit crisper, but have less steering in the middle of the corner.
Hope that's a better explanation than what you have received in the past.
-Korey
Arm sweep is pretty useful, but it changes a few things all at once. It changes the angle of the inner hinge pins in relation to the center line of the chassis (kinda like this: \ /) , and as a result it shortens the wheelbase, and changes the steering geometry as well. If you want to isolate all the other changes it does, you'll have to change your ackerman and wheelbase accordingly. To be perfectly honest, I never do that...
If you weren't going to change anything else but the front toe block it would do as follows: Adding arm sweep will make the car enter the corner a tiny bit smoother, and create a noticeable increase in steering at the apex/middle of the corner. When you take arm sweep out, it makes the car turn in a little bit crisper, but have less steering in the middle of the corner.
Hope that's a better explanation than what you have received in the past.
-Korey
Tech Apprentice
Well are you running foam or rubber? if you are running rubber then you are probably to high!! this is where roll outs are better. To work out rollout you multiply your tire diameter by pie (3.14) and divide this by your fdr. this will give you a roll out. so most rubber tyres are 64mm so you would be running a 42.7 mil rollout which would suit a very large track. if this is the case then drop 3 teeth off your pinion which will bring you just under 40mm and turn your timing back up to full and see how that goes!! if you want more info p.m me!!
Toe out is different because the wheelbase doesn't change. As the front suspension compresses, the wheelbase gets shorter and there is more weight and the front of the car. toe out the arms travel strait up and down so the wheelbase doesn't change.
If you try 2.5 and 1.5 degree toe block at the front back to back on the prep track, you'll definitely notice the big difference. You need to try it and you'll know what's the difference between toe in/out and arm sweep.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Toe in and out in the front end of the car is an extremely small change. Toe out usually gives more steering entering the corner, and less mid to exit. It's the opposite for toe in (less steering on entry, and more in the middle and exit).
Arm sweep mainly effects the car right around the apex of the corner. Most people will not even notice the change it does to how the car feels entering the corner, but mainly right in the middle of the corner. Arm sweep is usually a much "larger" change than toe in/out in the front end of the car too.
Like others have said, you need to go try it. You can do many adjustments to obtain similar results, but sometimes a certain adjustment just works better than others. Knowing what to change just comes with experience.
-Korey
Arm sweep mainly effects the car right around the apex of the corner. Most people will not even notice the change it does to how the car feels entering the corner, but mainly right in the middle of the corner. Arm sweep is usually a much "larger" change than toe in/out in the front end of the car too.
Like others have said, you need to go try it. You can do many adjustments to obtain similar results, but sometimes a certain adjustment just works better than others. Knowing what to change just comes with experience.
-Korey
Tech Adept
Toe in and out in the front end of the car is an extremely small change. Toe out usually gives more steering entering the corner, and less mid to exit. It's the opposite for toe in (less steering on entry, and more in the middle and exit).
Arm sweep mainly effects the car right around the apex of the corner. Most people will not even notice the change it does to how the car feels entering the corner, but mainly right in the middle of the corner. Arm sweep is usually a much "larger" change than toe in/out in the front end of the car too.
Like others have said, you need to go try it. You can do many adjustments to obtain similar results, but sometimes a certain adjustment just works better than others. Knowing what to change just comes with experience.
-Korey
Arm sweep mainly effects the car right around the apex of the corner. Most people will not even notice the change it does to how the car feels entering the corner, but mainly right in the middle of the corner. Arm sweep is usually a much "larger" change than toe in/out in the front end of the car too.
Like others have said, you need to go try it. You can do many adjustments to obtain similar results, but sometimes a certain adjustment just works better than others. Knowing what to change just comes with experience.
-Korey
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Well
Finally tested my fully upgraded cyclone "S" at the track over re layout that will be used on next race may 17th. I'm using 18t center pulley/one way.
I used maxamps 4.700mah nimh batts and novak ss pro 13.5 brushless motor on novak gtb speed. As it's not illegal to use 13mm rotor here and many people use it, I decide to install it. After various tests starting on 4.67 fdr on 8 minutes racing pace rounds, I ended using 68t spur and 36t pinion and 55 degrees Celsius speed temperature on 4.09 fdr for me seems too much but the car feels great and the temps are good what you think ?
BTW, im upgrading my whole chassis buying the 3Racing graphite chassis for cyclone sport + front graphite tower for cyclone sport + rear graphite tower for cyclone sport but i cant find in stock the upper deck for cyclone sport so ... its impossible to fit the normal upper deck carbon fibre on the cyclone S chassis ?
Thanks
Pat
Finally tested my fully upgraded cyclone "S" at the track over re layout that will be used on next race may 17th. I'm using 18t center pulley/one way.
I used maxamps 4.700mah nimh batts and novak ss pro 13.5 brushless motor on novak gtb speed. As it's not illegal to use 13mm rotor here and many people use it, I decide to install it. After various tests starting on 4.67 fdr on 8 minutes racing pace rounds, I ended using 68t spur and 36t pinion and 55 degrees Celsius speed temperature on 4.09 fdr for me seems too much but the car feels great and the temps are good what you think ?
BTW, im upgrading my whole chassis buying the 3Racing graphite chassis for cyclone sport + front graphite tower for cyclone sport + rear graphite tower for cyclone sport but i cant find in stock the upper deck for cyclone sport so ... its impossible to fit the normal upper deck carbon fibre on the cyclone S chassis ?
Thanks
Pat