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Hot Bodies Cyclone

Old 03-02-2009, 04:28 PM
  #15481  
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The shocks that comes with the Cyclone TC has been refined.
Bottom of the shock body where the o-ring goes in was designed for perfectly fit with the brand new P3 o-ring before, but now the part has been refined as even swollen o-ring can be used w/o sacrificing of smooth function. Therefore, when the o-ring is new, there is a little gap between the "TC" shock body and the o-ring. but it should be perfect fit once the o-ring gets bigger a little bit. (Even when the o-ring is new, it should not be a problem if you put green slime or something)

As someone else mentined earlier, don't use the low-friction type o-rings as they are made slightly smaller diameter. I highly recommend that use the stock o-rings (#6820) that comes with the kit since the "TC" shock body has been optimized to use the o-ring.

Big advantage on this change/refine is that we don't have to change the shock o-rings so often anymore.

Thanks,

Originally Posted by RCFREAK
EJ20 i had the same crappy leaking shocks also.. spent many times using different O-rings and different rebounds to try and stop leakage. Me and my buddy that runs the TC cyclone had the same exact problems... But our other buddy that runs the Moorespeed edition never complains about it. Come to think of it, my black cyclone and my Surikarn never had a problem. There are different part numbers for the shock bodies between the TC and the previous cars..... so i compared the difference between the shock bodies, and found the older version bodies, anything other than the TC was different. the bottom portion of the older shock body had a smaller INNER DIAMETER than the TC ones.. but same size O-ring?!?!?!? swapped shock bodies(running older type) on the new TC and problem is pretty much fixed!!!!! i checked close up pics of Hara's cars and he is also running older shock bodies with the newer chassis?!?!?!? You can tell because the older shock bodies are threaded all the way down to the bottom shock cap.. The TC ones are only threaded about 2-3mm above the lower shock cap...
Remember to use new O-rings and apply o-ring lube.

good luck and LMK how it works!!
Arv.

PS all the front end breakage concerns, caused 3 drivers to switch to other cars for durability.....
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:37 PM
  #15482  
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The newer shocks are designed to give the same feeling of the older shocks with high performance o rings, only with the stock orings. Most of the team drivers found a better performing shock with the high performance orings in the old shock as they didnt press against the shoch shaft as much. So they replaced with with the high performance orings that are of a slightly different size to have a looser fit on the shock shaft, but still seal just enough. As with many things, it is a compromise. They sacrificed the time between rebulds for better performace.

I havent had any real leakage issues with the new shocks. I do notice my rebound flattens out a bit after a little while, but thats been common with any shock. I found putting a little shock slime on the orings makes for a slightly better seal, which prolongs the time between topping of the shock oil or rebuilding it. Just make sure you use the stock orings, those are what the newer shock was designed around. I've tested MANY different orings, and these are the only orings I'd put in the newer shocks that come in the tc kit.

-Korey
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:38 PM
  #15483  
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Aww man... Hiro beat me to it...
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:39 PM
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Oh, Mr. Korey explained better already...

Thanks Korey!!
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:03 PM
  #15485  
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i guess we can either wait till the o-ring gets swollen or just purchase older shock bodies.. i hated playing with shock oil during race days..

the o-rings would have to really swell up because the inner diameter between the shock bodies are a big difference..

i did sacrifice a performance i would NEVER notice in the shock action.
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:06 PM
  #15486  
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So for the Reedy...who will be explaining things to the racers? Korey or Hiro? I see a game of rock, paper, scissors
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:22 PM
  #15487  
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What are people running for Lipo weights,trays,etc to achieve balance?I am running a 40c Thunder Power battery if that helps.Anyone using the PPD tray/system?
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:49 PM
  #15488  
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Originally Posted by racenut123
What are people running for Lipo weights,trays,etc to achieve balance?I am running a 40c Thunder Power battery if that helps.Anyone using the PPD tray/system?
Hey rookie........I'll send you a pic of what Scotty and I had on our car with a SMC 5000. The car was perfectly balanced. See ya on the black top.
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:05 PM
  #15489  
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Sweet...yeah its been that long.
Originally Posted by STLNLST
Hey rookie........I'll send you a pic of what Scotty and I had on our car with a SMC 5000. The car was perfectly balanced. See ya on the black top.
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:52 PM
  #15490  
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Originally Posted by rc pete
The 4mm ackerman is what I'd recommend to start on a flowing medium traction carpet track. I haven't had much luck running less spacing (more ackerman) on carpet with rubber unless it's a tight point-and-shoot track. You'll find that the car carves around the turns more predictably.

Also try moving the front arms all the way back. It will put more weight over the front and give you more mid and exit steering.

As a general comment, you must be getting a lot of roll out the car... normally I don't see carpet/rubber setups with low roll centers and soft springs (looks like a pavement setup). I find on carpet it takes away some responsiveness out of the car.
So , if the track layout is tight , i should have less spacing ( more ackermann ) and if the track is flowing i should have more spacing ( less ackermann ) , is it right ?

About moving the front arms , i have them all the way front , i will try to put them all the way back but on the rear , i have the arms all the way front so it will give me the shortest wheelbase if i put the front arms all the way back (wich you are recomending and i will try ) and the rear arms all the way front .
So should i move my rear arms or should i keep my arms as it is ?

About roll center your saying that i have a low r-center so if i have 3mm front i should put 2 mm or 2.5 mm ?
And for the rear i should go from 2mm to 1.5 . Am i right or no ?
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:10 PM
  #15491  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
Aww man... Hiro beat me to it...
Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow
Oh, Mr. Korey explained better already...

Thanks Korey!!
Originally Posted by RCFREAK
i guess we can either wait till the o-ring gets swollen or just purchase older shock bodies.. i hated playing with shock oil during race days..

the o-rings would have to really swell up because the inner diameter between the shock bodies are a big difference..

i did sacrifice a performance i would NEVER notice in the shock action.
Originally Posted by rc pete
And make sure that you're using the stock o-rings and not the 38755 Competition O-rings as listed in the Hara cyclone build guide. The comp. o-rings are super smooth but they leak big time. I have no idea how the guy gets them to work... maybe you're supposed to motor spray them to enlarge them before you lube them.
Big Thanks for everybodies!
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:23 AM
  #15492  
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Originally Posted by racenut123
What are people running for Lipo weights,trays,etc to achieve balance?I am running a 40c Thunder Power battery if that helps.Anyone using the PPD tray/system?
John, I'm going to be running the PPD plate with the Thunder power 5000's. I had Billy mill the bulkhead for me to get the clearence.

I'm still need working on the electronics install, so not sure how it will balance out yet. But I think it will be pretty close.

Plus since I'm using the TC chassis I can move the plate around alittle to help with the balance.

I don't want to add weight to these batterys since I also use them in my CRC World GT.
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:35 AM
  #15493  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
Hey rookie........I'll send you a pic of what Scotty and I had on our car with a SMC 5000. The car was perfectly balanced. See ya on the black top.
Send me the pic too. My car looks ugly with all of that lead hanging all over the place....yuck...
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Advil
Send me the pic too. My car looks ugly with all of that lead hanging all over the place....yuck...
Did you get the pic I sent last night???? I tried to make it look just like the picture.
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:46 AM
  #15495  
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Originally Posted by racenut123
Sweet...yeah its been that long.
Originally Posted by Advil
Send me the pic too. My car looks ugly with all of that lead hanging all over the place....yuck...
STLNLST, didn't do it to well so remember that when you get his pics.

PM me your email and I will send you a pic with one done my way.

STLNLST is still learning, he hasen't mastered it yet!!
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