Marv

iTrader: (2)

NICE CAR!!

My S2 came the same way tighter pull on one side =
I bought a spare steering linkage assembly for an eBay RC bone yard and swapped out the non-adjustable ACKERMAN bar with the spare parts servo rod = Now adjustable and I ,made each side (the bell cranks) even -

Also, I see you are using the outside holes on your front hubs = try using the inside holes...




AND you might check this from post 15 = http://www.rctech.net/forum/10784807-post15.html

For the Ackerman link mod - remove the upper deck & cut out the section shown in the picture - reinstall the deck leaving the two forward most screws out for now.

Attachment 926745

Once your Ackerman and toe links are reinstalled place your car on your stand, turn on the TX & the RX - your servo should center.

Adjust the new Ackerman rod FIRST so that the new left servo assembly is in line with the right servo assembly =

Your right & left Ackerman ball cups should be evenly parallel (same amount protruding) from the upper deck.

Attachment 926734

Your left side toe will be WAY off.

The right side should not have changed.

Check your camber & toe - readjust as required.

NOTE: I'm told that the Ackerman link is not supposed to be adjustable - Mine is.

Slyskiller

When looking for ESC's. What does the "320A" mean? Is it better to have a higher or small number?

Edit: Nevermind. I'm not going to change my ESC anyway.

Slyskiller

Just got my Tamiya light buckets for the GTR R35. They fit perfectly for HPI's body.

Marv

iTrader: (2)

Part numbers would be nice -
And if you did up a post with the 'how to' and pics =
That would be AWESOME!
Thanks


I'll be on/off - - -

Home renovations/plumbing/de-pack ratting a couple rooms...

In the works for this post:
*A directory for page one
*Mod for moving the battery forward
*Adding sway bars to the S2
*Traxxas Slash 4x4 wheels& & tires on the S2

jhusel

First I wanted to say how much I've enjoyed reading and learning on this thread. I wanted to share the motor fan mount I made and installed.

I made it out of aluminum, bent, milled and tapped the screw holes. Then wired it to the receiver. It was a tight fit but turned out really good. I have it screwed down to the chassis.

You'll have to view my gallery unfortunately, as I don't have a high enough post count to post pics directly. If someone would like to repost them, that would be great.

RogerDaShrubber

iTrader: (6)

You should be able to link to the pics in your albums.

RC83

Marv, thanks for all the mods you have put together on this site! I recently picked up RC again as a hobby, after abandoning it in my middle teens in the 90s, and this is my first post on this forum (but I have read this thread several times in the quest for my silk purse). All the information has certainly helped make my Sprint 2 much, much better!

khhoa

Hey I ended up returning the brushless set because the gear/teeth on that brushless motor were stripped and so were the thread on the motor mounts.

I did upgrade to a digital servo savox 1258tg. but my receiver/radio would not work with it and if I do a full turn it shuts off. I changed my receiver out to my traxxass one I have laying around and it worked fine. Do you know whats causing the issue with an upgraded servo ?

Also what do you recommended for slick drifting wheels, the stock wheels have too much grip with the digital servo on.
I am still looking for a brushless set, what would you recommended for speed for a budget around 100$ ? I do not think I will be doing LIPO batterys since i have 5-6 Nimh batteries laying around .

*Came up on a deal at the swap meet =]*

Mxer59

iTrader: (114)

The issue with your servo is a "brown out" loss of power for second to reciever, there's a couple ways to fix it. Run a capitor on Reciever spare channel (stores power to help with voltage loss spikes) or run external BEC too keep the current a constant flow through Reciever. The savox are great servos just are known sometimes to cause this issue depending on electronics in car, nothing to worry about just try one of those options capictor is usually cheaper fix but sometimes not enough.

mrjudd77

Thanks to Marv and everyone else for this thread. I am an Aussie and just purchased a Sprint 2 Flux Porsche 911 for t/c racing at my local club and a bit of bashing and drift on the side. There is sooooo much good info in here. Just 1 question, where can I get the carbon fibre chassis for the sprint 2. All the searches I have done show none in stock. I will soon have the whole swag of alloy parts from asiatees and have started on the smaller slop issues.

Apart from the mods here. What tools and set up stuff do you recommend as this is my first propper r/c and I have nothing.

nubie-wan

iTrader: (4)

mrjudd77, I got mine from Exotek directly. I see that they are out of stock currently. I don't know of another source currently.

Get some good hex drivers and nut drivers. Metric sizes will be what you want. Dynamite has some sets that are decent and inexpensive. Hudy is top notch and expensive! An inexpensive camber gauge is helpful and a set-up board. A good solder station is nice to have too.

mrjudd77

Thanks nubie-wan for the advice. Just got myself onto VRC Pro (free version) and have been practicing. One of my mates gave me an old Venom Tx that has a usb connection so I can use that with it. Also noticed that my local track is on there. Bonus

I am in Brisbane Qld Australia.

Anyone else on here from Australia?

WaftyCrank

http://www.philshobbyshop.com/catalo...y=23&op=search has the hpi woven graphite version if that helps.

mrjudd77

Thanks Wafty

mrjudd77

Is there a woven graphite upper deck for use with a stick pack?