jujubean

iTrader: (1)

No clear answer on this so let me ask. The L parts that break. Has anyone had any success with a turnbuckle solution? Other than the potential for tweak if they are not built correctly, I do not understand why this solution has not been tried. I still ordered several of the carbon L parts with the VII I just ordered though

JayL

Every car needs a designed break point, preferably one that is easy to replace. I would rather replace a link than a pod plate or chassis...

I switched to the AE ones and have had no more issues

justinco

iTrader: (24)

I just did the same one not too long ago. It is indeed pretty tough but looks fantastic when completed.

terry.sc

I don't think anyone has bothered with turnbuckles as there are so many alternative links that are all interchangeable.

The moulded links have screws to allow you to adjust the grip on the balls, so you can remove all the play from the pivots. With turnbuckles and ball joints you have to rely on finding very good ball joints or put tension on the ball joints to remove any slop. You then have to adjust both turnbuckles to exactly the same length, otherwise the rear end is not square on the chassis which makes for interesting handling. The 3Racing F109 has a pair of turnbuckles, I ran one and they were a pain to keep square and to remove any slop without binding the rear links.

An accident big enough to snap the side link would also damage a turnbuckle, either stretching or snapping the ball joints. Replacing a damaged turnbuckle means starting again with adjusting the lengths to square up the rear end again.

silencery

iTrader: (21)

Agreed. A turnbuckle isn't a bad idea, but it would also add extra complexity and weight.

The AE versions from a 12r5 works well.

jujubean

iTrader: (1)

Yeah....I was thinking about all the negatives as well. I have to mail order everything where I currently am and with f1 being a new class, there will no doubt be a few replays of Spa '98 . With ball cups being easier to come by than L parts, I was just thinking keeping it on the road. I was also thinking sbout the the TRG 'arms' for the same reason. Anyway, it has not even come in the mail yet and here I am tweaking already. Typical

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

Team associated ones here as well. I broke one last winter and have not broken any since.
There can be any one or combination of the following reasons.
1. My driving skill has improved.
2. I am driving not aggressively enough.
3. I have been lucky.
4. The tracks I drive on are constructed friendly.

jujubean

iTrader: (1)

The AE versions from a 12r5 works well.[/QUOTE]

.......could you send me a link for that please.

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

TQ has them.


Use with these cap screws. They are longer than Tamiya ones. Need 2 bags.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Don't forget you'll need the Associated pivot balls too ($$$). I recall them not being the same exact size as the Tamiya ones.

jujubean

iTrader: (1)

Dan....your post Pope's in moments before I completed the order. Thanks. I will look for that part number.

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

They are 5mm as well ... I think I use tamiya pivot balls...

Cadman1981

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone tried these?

RM-01 Carbon Rein L Parts - Link 2pcs RM01 / F104 V2
# 54460

https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=6023

d.k.vmatt

^^ wondering the same thing. iv just ordered my V2 so id like to know what upgrades to get as I go.

addicted2blue

I once told a guy to use a turnbuckle for being able to keep the car going on a race as nobody had the L-parts as a spare part along with them.
But don't know if he liked it and or if there was a change in performance.