Tamiya F104 Version 2
#1487
Tech Fanatic
As when the servo turns the wheels you will notice that the servo moves sideways without the carbon brace.
#1491
Tech Master
iTrader: (50)
Also do u guys think my Reventon Pro which is 140A is too much for the F1 car I have a Justock club spec with is 45A with 245A burst. One of them will be combined with a Reedy Sonic Mach 2 21.5. Any suggestions on timing and FDR. It's at 20* with 64p 96/35 right now. I want to get both speed and punch coming out of the turn. Any suggestions??
#1494
Justock is more than plenty for 21.5 F1.
Sanding the diff plate never hurts, I'd do it anyways.
14 gauge is fine for battery.
Sanding the diff plate never hurts, I'd do it anyways.
14 gauge is fine for battery.
#1498
Tech Elite
The idea of sanding the disc plates is to put a texture and remove the shine on the surfaces which give the diff balls more bite. This allows you to have a freer diff (no need to tighten down so much) while not having it slip. I don't sand my discs anymore because after one run the balls will put a groove into the plates and the sanding texture doesn't do anything. The only time I would sand is if the plates are not flat. IMHO it's better to use ceramic diff balls than sanding the plates.
#1500
Tech Elite
For gearing I would shoot for reaching top speed about 2/3 down your longest straight and having the punch you want in the infield. You have to temp. your motor to help figure out gearing. On my D3 I shoot for 150 or slightly less degrees after 5 minutes. Your gearing also depends on whether you have a torque or rpm motor and what the motor timing is set at. As an example my track is about 170'x65' and my 21.5T motor timing is set at 50 degrees. On Pit Shimizu tires of approx. 63mm diameter, my gearing is between 2.93 - 3.03