Wires and Connectors....
#1
Wires and Connectors....
I was wondering what gauge/brand of wires, Battery Bars, and connectors that everyone is using and why
#2
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
I use 12 gauge wire for racing. 14 for reverse ESC's and basher cars.
Usually Orion or Deans.
Orion Battery Bones Gold. Preffered them over platinum and have just used them ever since.
Recently I gave up Deans plugs and swithced to "Corally" Style plugs. They work great and are easier to work with than Deans or tamiya plugs. I would hard wire, but I'm lazy!
Usually Orion or Deans.
Orion Battery Bones Gold. Preffered them over platinum and have just used them ever since.
Recently I gave up Deans plugs and swithced to "Corally" Style plugs. They work great and are easier to work with than Deans or tamiya plugs. I would hard wire, but I'm lazy!
#3
Would Length of the wires affect the preformance?
#4
Tech Apprentice
wire length is proportional to resistance, theoritically you want as short of wire as possible, but it doesnt make a huge difference
#5
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by jhigga15
Would Length of the wires affect the preformance?
Would Length of the wires affect the preformance?
Typicall your shortest wires are Positive Motor and battery and Negative Motor. Your longest would probably be your battery negative.
If you orient you batteries correctly the battery positive should be towards the rear (depending on the car) to be closet to the ESC and motor to have the shortest positive wire possible.
#6
Tech Regular
battery bars - what ever looks best
wire- what they give me in the box aso i use speedmind wire because its got copper not sliver and sticks better, i think it does
connectors- deans on my shaft car but i switched to "corally" plugs because its hard to fit deans plugs on a xray
wire- what they give me in the box aso i use speedmind wire because its got copper not sliver and sticks better, i think it does
connectors- deans on my shaft car but i switched to "corally" plugs because its hard to fit deans plugs on a xray
#9
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
I just end up using the speedo's stock wiring, 14g for novak, 13g for LRP. I did order some 13g from Trinity which is much easier to work with than 12g. I must add I usually run stock and 19T so 12g is not as improtant to use as with a hot mod 10T and lower.
I was using power pole connectores (red/black) but have since started using dean's on my batts and direct solder on my TC's since the esc's are jammed up against the motors these days.
For batt bars, most of the time I use deans, but since promatch has switched to a new wider bar (not sure of name) Most of my packs are now comming with those newer bars.
I was using power pole connectores (red/black) but have since started using dean's on my batts and direct solder on my TC's since the esc's are jammed up against the motors these days.
For batt bars, most of the time I use deans, but since promatch has switched to a new wider bar (not sure of name) Most of my packs are now comming with those newer bars.
#10
Tech Regular
14g wire (it's lighter) + Corally style connectors
#11
12g wire and corallys
J-P
J-P
#12
There are some simple rules when worrying about electrical connections:
-The thicker the wire the more current that is able to go through it (although thicker is heavier)
-The shorter the wire the less distance the power has to travel and the less that is lost
-The less connections you have (solder joints) the less the resistance you will have
-The better tha battery bars the better the power flow.
Personally, many feel that I go overboard with my stuff. 12 guage wires all the time that are as short as possible, with the best battery bars and everything hardwired (no connectors). Some on this forum will say that what I do is not necessary and overkill but when i am spending $80.00 a battery trying to find the best ones I can and spending hours on my motors, how can I afford NOT to do it.
-The thicker the wire the more current that is able to go through it (although thicker is heavier)
-The shorter the wire the less distance the power has to travel and the less that is lost
-The less connections you have (solder joints) the less the resistance you will have
-The better tha battery bars the better the power flow.
Personally, many feel that I go overboard with my stuff. 12 guage wires all the time that are as short as possible, with the best battery bars and everything hardwired (no connectors). Some on this forum will say that what I do is not necessary and overkill but when i am spending $80.00 a battery trying to find the best ones I can and spending hours on my motors, how can I afford NOT to do it.
#13
I don't have the patience to hardwire.... I hate waiting for my soldering iron to cool too.... I have been using the litespeed/powerpole/whatever else their called connectors since liek the 80's.... I'm finally switching everything to Corally style connectors.... Much better....
#14
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by KREATOR1
how about direct solder to batt and motors? save some $$$
how about direct solder to batt and motors? save some $$$
Originally posted by Mr. Shookie
Plus less resistance.
Plus less resistance.
We said were LAZY!!
But Seriously,
If I'm racing at a big event, then I will hardwire, but club racing or just weeked things......I'll stick with the Corally plugs.
I always hardwire to the motor, I thought we were just talking about batteries?
#15
I think hardwiring is easier in the short term because its tricky to solder on connectors and heatshrink etc...