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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2

Old 05-24-2013, 06:12 AM
  #4711  
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I've got a clarification question about tires. We all know the part numbers for the allowed tires per USVTA rules. Locally, we've had some debate regarding the legality of adding tape or other materials to the inside of the tire to effectively "belt" the tire to prevent ballooning. I think this is outside the spirit of the class so I don't do it, but that's just my personal opinion.

Has the USVTA ever issued any kind of official statement regarding this?

Thanks,
Tommy

Tire & Wheel Specifications:
The only tires allowed are HPI tire part #4793 "front" and #4797 "rear", using stock tire inserts provided with tire and any HPI Vintage wheels designed to fit these tires. All other tires and/or part numbers are illegal. Wheels and tires designated as "front" must be used as front tires/wheels, "rear" wheels/tires must used as rears. Five or Eight spoke wheels available in various colors. 0mm offset front wheels and 6mm offset rear wheels are intended for 26mm width fronts and 31mm width rear tires. 8-spoke Vintage wheels from #3805 through #3814, 5-spoke Vintage wheels from #3815 through #3822 and Vintage stock car wheels from #3854 through #3860, Vintage Wheel CC Type #33472 and #33473, Vintage Wheel DTP Type #33474 and #33475 are all legal wheels.

Grinding of tire tread is NOT permitted. Sanding of mold seam to remove seam is allowed. HPI Vintage Slicks and HPI Vintage Performance Tires are not allowed. Tire traction compounds are at the discretion of the track. No other altering, changing or softening of the tire is allowed. All decisions of the race promoter or track owner are final. No "double stuffing" of foam inserts allowed—only single stock vintage tire inserts are allowed.
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:18 AM
  #4712  
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Originally Posted by snoopyrc
I still hold to the idea that if Tekin or anyone made a super small esc that somehow blocked out timing and boost while still allowing for a hotwire style interface for the other features, that would be the bomb.
Tekins and a bunch of other speed controls already do this...its call Blinky mode
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:22 AM
  #4713  
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Originally Posted by Tommy R
I've got a clarification question about tires. We all know the part numbers for the allowed tires per USVTA rules. Locally, we've had some debate regarding the legality of adding tape or other materials to the inside of the tire to effectively "belt" the tire to prevent ballooning. I think this is outside the spirit of the class so I don't do it, but that's just my personal opinion.

Has the USVTA ever issued any kind of official statement regarding this?

Thanks,
Tommy
No other altering or changing............so no belting. And before anybody gets any ideas the rules will be altered shortly to directly eliminate belting tires specifically.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:38 AM
  #4714  
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Would or Does "Belting" the tire cause the tire to wear more evenly, and prolong the life of the tires? If so, why would you ban something that ultimately could be a cost savings that can be done very cost effectively?

Why wouldn't instead this practice be embraced, and put up a "How To" to inform people how to do it?
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:52 AM
  #4715  
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Here we go...

I think there is already a big difference in skill and ability between racers when it comes to something like mounting tires. With some guys, no matter how much instruction and help they receive, and no matter how many Youtube instructional videos they watch, they still cannot properly mount a tire. It would be wonderful if HP offered these in a pre-mount to help them out, but they don't.

So now if you add belting, some will figure out secret formula tapes and taping methods to gain advantages that will leave average drivers scratching their heads even more than they do now at how the "fast guys" are so fast. Ultimately, this is a big turn off in any class. A spec class is meant to keep things close, and using equipment out-of-the package as it was intended to be used helps to keep it close. The more variables introduced, the wider the gap between the front to back of the class. This is meant to be a drivers class where everything equipment-wise doesn't matter so much and allowing modifications to tires is slippery slope.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:21 AM
  #4716  
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Need help with setting up TC4 running VTA and car is loose as a goose. thanks
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:44 AM
  #4717  
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Originally Posted by gearit
Need help with setting up TC4 running VTA and car is loose as a goose. thanks
Fill this out in detail and post it here.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca..._edit_2007.pdf

After seeing what you are running we can make some suggestions.

Also let us know if you are running on asphalt or carpet and what traction compound you are using.
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:50 PM
  #4718  
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...me personally, I can't say I CAN'T properly mount a touring tire, but I can say I HATE mounting Touring Tires, and also wish HPI offered these "ProMounted" on at the very least ONE decent set of 8 spoke silver wheels... (I've had a NEW set of tires floating around for 6 months that I really am dreading mounting - all I've ever used on a VTA car is someone else's 1/2 worn out take offs. (that usually look like the alignment was way off and worn bad on the edges)
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:13 PM
  #4719  
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Hpi does sell VTA tires pre-mounted, but only the fronts. They come with some of their rtr kits. You will see people selling them online.

As far as even tire wear, that is more a setup issue combined with traction compound being used. Black can paragon will soften the tire and make them balloon. Other compounds like SXT or jack the gripper don't seem to overly soften the tire. If the outside of a vta is ballooning, it is usually from too much negative camber.

Even if old vta tires expand a bit through their life, you should be able to get fairly even tread wear on carpet. Asphalt or concrete can be hard on vta tires with a poorly setup car, but you can still get even tread wear across the tire.
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:12 PM
  #4720  
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
Tekins and a bunch of other speed controls already do this...its call Blinky mode
Not the same. Not even close. If it was it would be legal in VTA. We have been through this over and over again.
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:55 PM
  #4721  
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A friend of mine and myself are looking to get into the VTA style of racing and while he's dead set on getting a tc4 club racer, im teatering between a tc4 cr and a used Tamiya 416x that ive seen on the for sale thread here on rc tech. is there any advantage to one over the other?
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:01 PM
  #4722  
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TC4 would most likely be easier and cheaper to get parts, plus you and your buddy could bounce set ups off each other.
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:27 PM
  #4723  
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Originally Posted by chetly
A friend of mine and myself are looking to get into the VTA style of racing and while he's dead set on getting a tc4 club racer, im teatering between a tc4 cr and a used Tamiya 416x that ive seen on the for sale thread here on rc tech. is there any advantage to one over the other?
I will answer this question and try not to be biased, because it is my 416x you are talking about. The TC4 will be a very good VTA car. It helps a lot to know someone at the track with the same car for setup ideas like the theproffesor said. It's even better if one of the "fast" guy is running that car. Most people at any track tend to be helpful trying to get new people up to speed and setup. Now with that said, I think the 416x is a better car for all classes and even mod. There is no way I would try running mod with a tc4. I have 2 416x, 1 for Tamiya GT1 races and USGT. The other is the VTA car I am selling. In VTA you shouldn't break that often so parts shouldn't be a big thing in that class. However in something faster then VTA it becomes a factor.

I owed a TC4 when it first came out and then changed to a Tamiya 415. From then on I was hooked on Tamiya. Personally I think because your friend is getting a TC4 you would be better off at this point running the same car as him.

For anyone else interested: http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...o-chassis.html

Last edited by Travis S; 05-26-2013 at 07:51 PM. Reason: Figured I should add a link to my 416x for sale...
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Old 05-27-2013, 02:37 PM
  #4724  
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Having raced neither. I think I would prefer the Tamiya, but you would have to scavenge a little to replace the breakables. I am running a Yokomo MR4 TC SD SSG which is from the same era as the TC3. Just a little newer and a little more refined shafty.
If you just want to race and want a good no frills chassis that you can get parts and advice for then the TC4 will be fine.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:49 PM
  #4725  
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We had our "OUTLAW" VTA Enduro race this past Sunday at Cal R/C Racway in Southern CA.

There were only 8 teams (had hoped for a full 10 car field) but I believe that was 31 different drivers (Most teams used 4, I think one only used 3)

The 1000 lap event took right at 4 Hours, and most teams elected to make around 8-10 pit stops.

The Driver Skill Level was across the board from a team (OURS) of mostly Oval Pan Car guys, to some of R/C Racings ELITE (Including former WORLD CHAMPION Tony Neisinger driving on the TEAM ASSOCIATED team.)

The rules for this race allowed OPEN "Roar Legal" 21.5 motors, upto 5800 mAh "Roar Legal" Batteries, BLINKY ESCs, and limited to a total of 10 Tires (HPI Vintage Treaded or Slicks) Most teams opted for the Treaded, but I believe 2 teams went with SLICK fronts and Treaded Rears. (Including the WINNING Team, that did the WHOLE Race on One set of tires (Which FELL APART on the Victory Lap)

I have to say, this race was one of THE MOST FUN Events I've ever been a part of - and the racers "Sportsmanship" was 2nd to none.

for pics, results or other info on the OUTLAW VTA guys in SoCal - check out their thread in the CA Section -

http://www.rctech.net/forum/californ...ance-race.html

and here's a edited for time video

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Last edited by SWTour; 05-31-2013 at 06:20 PM.
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