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Old 10-14-2012, 08:51 PM
  #691  
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Hey guys, back from Canada race at Lou's speedway. Race was "interesting", due to the fact my first qualifier was my practice.... The car was very balanced and fast! Very predictable and was able to drive it hard when I needed to. Anyway this is what I came up with for Tq!

Front:
Front shock tower on top / 3rd hole from inside with 1.5 shim behind shock
Front bottom shock position / outside
Front spring orange 3 hole piston with 600 cst
Front short wheelbase/ 2 .1 shims under all suspension blocks
White front sway bar
1.5 front camber
Stock camber link location

Rear
Rear shock at top/ leaned all the way in
Rear shock at bottom/ outside
Rear spring / green with 3 hole piston with 350 cst
Red rear sway bar no rear shims under suspension blocks
Camber left rear 2, right rear -2.5 ( there was a right hand turn in the middle of track that had no grip yet and the car pushed there unless you hit brakes, I don't like brakes so this rotated the car through this section)
Camber link/ short on hub/ and 2 hole on inner link location, stock shims
Wheel base long.
2.5 rear toe
Droop 2mm over ride height all around car
If I didn't mention it that means it was stock location .

Body was Mazda speed 6 /with 2 middle holes in wing open.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:56 PM
  #692  
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I just what to say Thank You John @CRC
Incredible service. Wildfire's Burning...
and Thank you also Mr. Johnson.
ems
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:51 PM
  #693  
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well, mine is built. i took a few photos and cant find my camera cable.
i ordered the green kit. i also got a paint pen and edged the chassis, top chassis, shock towers, front bumper holder, optional motor guard etc etc in green. it looks pretty trick

i had to call crc as my green kit was missing a pair of turnbuckles, John told me he would contact vbc as the green stuff doesnt come as individual items. i also suggested the green hexes be removed from the kit and maybe the steering system come in green instead. i didnt think there was a point to green hexes when the tires are mounted up.

i tried mounting up some of my spare kyosho x rings in the shocks but didnt like the outside diameter fit and assumed they would leak so i green snotted up the white rings. shocks were built 3 days ago and no leakage yet. for the diff i was probably over generous in green snot as well. but considering that was day 1 of the build portion i have yet to see leakage. working on the electronics this week and hope to play with it this weekend

i had fun building it. this is my first 1/10 tc build. i am a little concerned about the plastic inside the diff. but coming from my 1/8 onroad and offroad and 4x4 sc can i assume plastic in blinky class will be durable?

future plans is to put in the double joint drive shafts in the front, aluminum front one way, servo hanger and hunt for a pro painted body worthy of the work i put into the car
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:36 PM
  #694  
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Originally Posted by Dave Johnson
Hey guys, back from Canada race at Lou's speedway. Race was "interesting", due to the fact my first qualifier was my practice.... The car was very balanced and fast! Very predictable and was able to drive it hard when I needed to. Anyway this is what I came up with for Tq!

Front:
Front shock tower on top / 3rd hole from inside with 1.5 shim behind shock
Front bottom shock position / outside
Front spring orange 3 hole piston with 600 cst
Front short wheelbase/ 2 .1 shims under all suspension blocks
White front sway bar
1.5 front camber
Stock camber link location

Rear
Rear shock at top/ leaned all the way in
Rear shock at bottom/ outside
Rear spring / green with 3 hole piston with 350 cst
Red rear sway bar no rear shims under suspension blocks
Camber left rear 2, right rear -2.5 ( there was a right hand turn in the middle of track that had no grip yet and the car pushed there unless you hit brakes, I don't like brakes so this rotated the car through this section)
Camber link/ short on hub/ and 2 hole on inner link location, stock shims
Wheel base long.
2.5 rear toe
Droop 2mm over ride height all around car
If I didn't mention it that means it was stock location .

Body was Mazda speed 6 /with 2 middle holes in wing open.
Dave's car looked good when he got a chance to get a clean run in, I believe he broke in one of the warm ups, but his 3rd qualifier the car was dialed, then he smoked a motor in the main. Poor guy had some bad luck!!

The car is really nice..

Hope you come back up to Canada again Dave, we could use a few more great drivers to learn things from!

Grant Galloway
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:35 AM
  #695  
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Hi Guys,

I recently finished building my Wildfire and it's ready to track test. I think it's a great kit. I will take setup tips from the posts above.

I was wondering which tyres and inserts you are running on asphalt, medium to high grip. I am considering the Sorex 36 radial with the Sorex B medium insert.

Your thoughts are appreciated.
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:30 PM
  #696  
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Default VBC Wildfire

Building the VBC Wildfire. Having trouble with the steering rack. Specifically the two button head screws that are thread locked into the posts. Not the one from under the chassis up but the two thru the arms down. Is there a shim or spacer that is supposed to be in their. It is either to loose with up and down play or too tight causing bind in one direction.

1st 1/10 scale touring build, so kind of new at this.

Thanks,

Kurt
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:36 PM
  #697  
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What wheel hexes fit this car?

The TLRs fit, but they don't ride against the inner race of the bearing...

Thanks in advance!
Seth
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:53 PM
  #698  
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What pinion to start with? The spur is 116 tooth 64 pitch. 11 - 12 second track. 17.5 blinky mode sedan. I am a rookie, so want to start out on the conservative side, don't want flat out speed to learn with.

Thanks
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:06 PM
  #699  
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Originally Posted by Turbo911
What pinion to start with? The spur is 116 tooth 64 pitch. 11 - 12 second track. 17.5 blinky mode sedan. I am a rookie, so want to start out on the conservative side, don't want flat out speed to learn with.

Thanks
Your going to want to get a smaller spur to run blinky (96 would be good) I'm not sure what the internal ratio is of the car but I would shoot for a 3.8 final drive and then adjust motor timing for the speed you want.
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:08 AM
  #700  
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Originally Posted by Turbo911
What pinion to start with? The spur is 116 tooth 64 pitch. 11 - 12 second track. 17.5 blinky mode sedan. I am a rookie, so want to start out on the conservative side, don't want flat out speed to learn with.

Thanks
An xray 96t offset spur is what I have been using. Internal ratio is 1.9:1
I would start around 4.0fdr so a 45/96 should get you there.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:34 AM
  #701  
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Originally Posted by Turbo911
Building the VBC Wildfire. Having trouble with the steering rack. Specifically the two button head screws that are thread locked into the posts. Not the one from under the chassis up but the two thru the arms down. Is there a shim or spacer that is supposed to be in their. It is either to loose with up and down play or too tight causing bind in one direction.

1st 1/10 scale touring build, so kind of new at this.

Thanks,

Kurt
I guess it depends on how much up and down play you have. A little is ok. If you feel it is too much, you can add a shim to tighten it up. Bind is bad.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:37 AM
  #702  
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As some of the other guys said, a FDR of 3.8-4.0 will be fine. I use a CRC 96 tooth spur, and just thin up the center with a knife. I guess the offset Xray gears fit too.
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:46 PM
  #703  
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Hex wheel nut Shaft pin,
there is a little play between pin and bearing can that be shimmed? (.2 or .3)
Thankyou.
ems
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:11 PM
  #704  
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Originally Posted by kuruption
Fit into the A-arm is a bit tight... I recommend shaving down the A-arm a bit to allow freer movement.
Did you also use the X-ray spacer/collars? or did you drill out the c-hub to take the VBC kit spacer/collars?
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:04 AM
  #705  
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when will the one peice servo mount be avalible at crc.
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