1/12 Pan Newbie
02-21-2012, 12:23 PM
#1
1/12 Pan Newbie
I am looking to get into 1/12 pan racing and have been looking at a few chassis. I like the 12R5.1 and the XII. I am pretty sure the track we race at is going to be running 17.5 and 13.5. What would be a good motor/esc combo with one of these chassis? Also, what other chassis. tips or tricks might be out there that i would be unaware about? Thanks for the help in advance
02-21-2012, 01:04 PM
#2
I am looking to get into 1/12 pan racing and have been looking at a few chassis. I like the 12R5.1 and the XII. I am pretty sure the track we race at is going to be running 17.5 and 13.5. What would be a good motor/esc combo with one of these chassis? Also, what other chassis. tips or tricks might be out there that i would be unaware about? Thanks for the help in advance
Linked in my sig.
Heaps of info to help you get up to speed.
02-21-2012, 01:28 PM
#3
There are a few pieces of advice I try to give everybody starting in pan cars, ones that for the most part I suffered through before I got smart and started asking questions.
First, when assembling your first kit you MUST take a reamer and drill bits to all of the suspension pieces until they actually have a little slop to ensure they move absolutely free. A little loose and a little slop is infinitely preferrable to a little binding.
Second, the wrong tires look like the right tires but certainly won't work like the right tires.
Third, when assembling your front end, you absolutely must have the servo exactly centered in the chassis or your steering will be uneven. I can feel in the performance of my car a 0.005" disparity in my servo position in how the car turns harder to one side than the other.
Those are the most important points, but other things include: Cut out your bodies before you paint them or you wont get the holes in the right place, don't run the car too low (4.5mm or so is low enough), chunked tires can still be run and can even be repaired with PLIOBOND glue or DAP contact cement, adjusting your steering exponential down a few clicks can tame a tail-happy car and get you through the heat, always pay attention to the C-rating on your receiver pack so you don't charge it too fast, yada yada yada....
IMPORTANT: HAVE FUN, you are doing this for fun and that's all that matters. We are racing toy cars, you can't take it that seriously.
I race a CRC car, but there are no really trick kits. Every 1/12 kit on the market (and even some that are expired) can win the 1/12 worlds with a lucky strike on the setup and one of the best drivers at the wheel. Get wjhat your local shop supports best, and if its an Associated kit assemble the top of the shock and fill the shocks from the bottom instead of the top like the manual says for good bubble-free action.
First, when assembling your first kit you MUST take a reamer and drill bits to all of the suspension pieces until they actually have a little slop to ensure they move absolutely free. A little loose and a little slop is infinitely preferrable to a little binding.
Second, the wrong tires look like the right tires but certainly won't work like the right tires.
Third, when assembling your front end, you absolutely must have the servo exactly centered in the chassis or your steering will be uneven. I can feel in the performance of my car a 0.005" disparity in my servo position in how the car turns harder to one side than the other.
Those are the most important points, but other things include: Cut out your bodies before you paint them or you wont get the holes in the right place, don't run the car too low (4.5mm or so is low enough), chunked tires can still be run and can even be repaired with PLIOBOND glue or DAP contact cement, adjusting your steering exponential down a few clicks can tame a tail-happy car and get you through the heat, always pay attention to the C-rating on your receiver pack so you don't charge it too fast, yada yada yada....
IMPORTANT: HAVE FUN, you are doing this for fun and that's all that matters. We are racing toy cars, you can't take it that seriously.
I race a CRC car, but there are no really trick kits. Every 1/12 kit on the market (and even some that are expired) can win the 1/12 worlds with a lucky strike on the setup and one of the best drivers at the wheel. Get wjhat your local shop supports best, and if its an Associated kit assemble the top of the shock and fill the shocks from the bottom instead of the top like the manual says for good bubble-free action.
02-22-2012, 05:19 AM
#4
I just picked up a 12R5.1 and am looking forward to getting it going 
. Out of these 3 ESCs which one would you guys prefer:
Hobbywing 1s, LRP SXX, or Tekin w TQ Boost
A local guy has told me the Hobbywing 1s is perfect for 1/12 pan. I am alsoo leaning towards a RevTech, Thunderpower, or D3. I think i read on the description the RevTech was sensorless
...isn't sensored motors better than sensorless?
. Out of these 3 ESCs which one would you guys prefer:Hobbywing 1s, LRP SXX, or Tekin w TQ Boost
A local guy has told me the Hobbywing 1s is perfect for 1/12 pan. I am alsoo leaning towards a RevTech, Thunderpower, or D3. I think i read on the description the RevTech was sensorless
...isn't sensored motors better than sensorless?
02-22-2012, 05:39 AM
#5
The Rev-Tech is sensored.
The Hobbywing is OK for the price. It is very large and will be a challenge to fit on the chassis. A racermate of mine has one and it hangs over the edge of his chassis. It works and the programming card (optional at an extra cost) is a nice feature. Problem is it takes up more space and weighs more than my Tekin RS and a 2S LiFe 220mah pack together. We both have AE RC12R5.1s but I have the in-line conversion. With the conversion there is almost no decent area for the Hobbywing to fit, it will be very tight in between the battery and the side link.
The LRP sells for over $200 (gulp) and is quite large but not as big as the Hobbywing.
The Hobbywing is OK for the price. It is very large and will be a challenge to fit on the chassis. A racermate of mine has one and it hangs over the edge of his chassis. It works and the programming card (optional at an extra cost) is a nice feature. Problem is it takes up more space and weighs more than my Tekin RS and a 2S LiFe 220mah pack together. We both have AE RC12R5.1s but I have the in-line conversion. With the conversion there is almost no decent area for the Hobbywing to fit, it will be very tight in between the battery and the side link.
The LRP sells for over $200 (gulp) and is quite large but not as big as the Hobbywing.
02-22-2012, 06:16 AM
#6
I recently took all my tekin's out of 12th scale to go with the hobbywing. Yes it is a little bit larger but if you weigh it out it is only about 2 grams heavier than an RS Pro with Life pack. They are very efficient and you dont have to worry about charging and additional battery or dealing with booster's. I think you would be very happy with the HW, I have been running 12th for 11 years now and it is hands down one of the nicer speed controls I have ever used, second only to the Black Diamond. (Again that is my opinion not proven fact).
Good luck!
Good luck!
02-22-2012, 06:24 AM
#7
Some confusion , do I need another battery outside of the 1s LiPo? or is that enough to power everything. I am leaning towards the hobbywing 1s with a RevTech 17.5. I apologize for the questions but want to get everything figured out before i buy things. I think i am going to run the 17.5 blinky class.
, do I need another battery outside of the 1s LiPo? or is that enough to power everything. I am leaning towards the hobbywing 1s with a RevTech 17.5. I apologize for the questions but want to get everything figured out before i buy things. I think i am going to run the 17.5 blinky class.
02-22-2012, 07:41 AM
#8
Your radio, servo, and ESC computer won't run on the 1s voltages, so unless you have an external booster you need a receiver pack. The LRP speed control has an internal booster, so you don't need a receiver pack to run it. The Hobbywing 1s needs the receiver pack to my knowledge, but they're super cheap, $20 for a 220mah LiFe pack.
02-22-2012, 08:22 AM
#10
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
You do not need a receiver pack or a voltage booster with the Hobbywing 1s or the LRP (hence why it is called the Hobbywing 1s). You will, however, need either a receiver pack or a voltage booster (TQ one is best) with the Tekin (or any other speed control that doesn't have a 1s bec built into it).
The hobbywing 1s is a large esc, but you don't have to bother with any pack or booster. I use a Tekin with a booster and like it a lot, but the extra wiring can certainly sometimes be a pain (TQ booster is way easier for this than the novak one though).
Revtech will be a great motor choice, I recently started using one and love it. Feel free to ask in the 12th scale forum for help with rollout as well as everything else once you get the car built.
The hobbywing 1s is a large esc, but you don't have to bother with any pack or booster. I use a Tekin with a booster and like it a lot, but the extra wiring can certainly sometimes be a pain (TQ booster is way easier for this than the novak one though).
Revtech will be a great motor choice, I recently started using one and love it. Feel free to ask in the 12th scale forum for help with rollout as well as everything else once you get the car built.
02-22-2012, 08:41 AM
#11
I did bounce a few ideas of the 1/12 forum guys but there is so much going on in there it was getting lost. What class do you guys prefer to run? Mod or 17.5? Also, is 17.5 Spec and "Blinky" the same thing? I have been trying to google the ROAR info for these and it doesn't come back with too much information. Does the HW1s allow you to race both classes just having to change the motor out? I am looking for some adaptability without having two different cars
02-22-2012, 08:52 AM
#12
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
I did bounce a few ideas of the 1/12 forum guys but there is so much going on in there it was getting lost. What class do you guys prefer to run? Mod or 17.5? Also, is 17.5 Spec and "Blinky" the same thing? I have been trying to google the ROAR info for these and it doesn't come back with too much information. Does the HW1s allow you to race both classes just having to change the motor out? I am looking for some adaptability without having two different cars
Yes, you can run a 13.5 with the hobbywing esc. However, your chassis setup will likely not be the same between classes, which means the car might drive like crap after changing only the motor. Other good option might be to just leave the 17.5 in but use esc timing for when you race the 13.5 class. Depends on how "purist" your track is, though. Car will be quite a bit quicker, but still easier to drive than a 13.5, so you will likely be able to remain somewhat competitive depending on how good the other drivers are.
02-22-2012, 09:23 AM
#13
Start out with 17.5 stock/blinky. A pan car is in a different league when it comes to handling and it will allow you to get used to the car right off the bat as opposed to trying to deal with the speed. We had a guy running a 4.5 with boost and timing at the track this last week and it was crazy fast.
Almost too fast for me to follow, let alone drive!
Almost too fast for me to follow, let alone drive!
02-22-2012, 09:44 AM
#14
This is why i love RcTech and this hobby. The feedback has been great guys i definitely appreciate it. After hearing feedback from you guys this is what i am going to do, let me know what you think.
Hobbywing 1s (even though it is a little bigger) but do not need a booster
Any 17.5 motor, but leaning towards RevTech or Thunderpower
Any low profile servo (Savox 1251mg or equivalent)
1s Lipo Battery (Any preference???)
I already have my radio and receiver and some used tires and a body to start
Is there anything else you guys think i am missing?
Hobbywing 1s (even though it is a little bigger) but do not need a booster
Any 17.5 motor, but leaning towards RevTech or Thunderpower
Any low profile servo (Savox 1251mg or equivalent)
1s Lipo Battery (Any preference???)
I already have my radio and receiver and some used tires and a body to start
Is there anything else you guys think i am missing?
02-22-2012, 10:09 AM
#15
The servo isn't a low-profile, its a mini servo, the Savox 1251 WILL NOT FIT. I would not recommend a servo under $80, as cheaper servos don't center well and tend to wander on the straights. I have two JR 3650 metal gear servos in my 1/12 cars and they have been as reliable and predictable as gravity, but Airtronics, Futaba, and others make very good servos. Just remember, you get what you pay for.