skybolt58

Well I must say, it was a very powerfull engine during its short life, I have been into R/C since 1976 and I have had many engines, AIR/ truck/car and marine, and diesel conversions.. and this sts .28 was NOT the worst I had, my main problem with it was NO ONE had the one way bearing. no one in my area can get parts. I guess my problem was that I got it off ebay.. NO more for that.. before I got the sts .28 I read a lot of good about it, then once I had my problems with it, I check'd other forums (RC Universe) and they didn't have any good to say about it? Like I said before I was impressed with it. in the beginning. it did what I wanted to do with it. Bit this WERKS COLLARI .32 is an awsome engine. cost only 159.95 at a LHS. Plus it is doing twice of what I want it to do.. I am sorry if I hurt any ones feelings, but maybe I just got a lemon!

au_Nightmare

Maybe a lemon, dont know. Some items are just cursed ! lol..

like ryan6682, im hooked on STS engines. The Dragon 5 port .12 (D5) engine got me hooked, its over 1.5 years and had a hard life. I damaged the sleeve when dropped the head down that .1mm too far and got bad detonation, and we wont talk about the time I dropped the piston on the pavers will we. She still goes strong

Though im eyeing off the D3R engine sitting on my bench, I think its time it got a run

And the D21B in my buggy is still coming to life as it breaks in..

Horatio

Not many people sell them, that's for sure. But there are both US and UK suppliers for these engines - both have posted details here.

I've seen very little in the way of bad stuff written about these engines, though this thread does encourage those with problems to discuss them so that they can be ironed out.

savagegarden

i am having this little problem with mine now
when i pull the pullstart it doesn't roll back if you know what i mean
well i have taken the pullstart off and it works awesome when i have it in my hand but as soon as i screw it on it doesn't retract anymore
i know that somebody said (can't remember who) not to tighten the screws to much so i tried that to
i tried all kinds of tightening from loose to very loose
man i am stuck here
please help me out

ryan6682

sounds like yuor one way bearing needs cleaning. while you have your pullstart off feel how hard it is to turn the shaft as this is what your return spring in the pullstart is having to turn to rewind. if it is stiff remove the backplate and clean the oneway bearing . if it is still stiff you may need another one way bearing.

scramblingmaxx

Hey guy's i just picked one up ,got it off ebay great deal .but the pic's show them as silver block,mine is black ,is it newer off the line color of the blocks being sold now ?.Also took the back plate off to check for casting particals, one of the cleanest motors i've ever seen inside.Problem the connecting rod oil groove is facing the back off the block not the carberator side does it have a groove on both sides or should this be pulled apart?Sorry ryan6682 i should have checked your prices first

au_Nightmare

Check if there is an oil hole at the bottom of the grove, the hole side needs to be facing the front of the engine. Newer cranks are groved both sides.

ryan6682

another championship trophy for racernine and the sts.28 motor, we just won the rdlogics fall offroad championships race in the expert truggy class, using the same sts.28 motor that we used in the odonnells race, should have a link to some pics and vid in a few days. won by two laps using our custom chassis mammoth and sts motor, other contenders were running the hot bodies truggy with rossi 8port motors.

BigGrump

Congratulations on your win. You guys make us proud.

Question;

Is the engine you use a Dadders modified one, or is it stock?

Also, do you use the stock pull starter on this engine or do you use a starter box?

Last, if it is a Dadders modified one, Can I get one exactly like that, or would that not be advisable. I like to bash, including drag racing, not track racing.

Dennis

ryan6682

we had dadders experiment on that one as we werent planning on using it .We have another but didnt have time to get it broken in for the race. So we went with the old one. Dadders can modify your to be like ours but it does burn a ton more fuel as he did something to the transfer ports.
We use a starter box as we dont want to rely on a pullstart for racing.
contact dadders for info about his port work. He can probably tell you more about what he is able to do for this motor.

BigGrump

Thanks,

The STS .28 I have is in my MGT and I use the roto-start and is turning out to be my favorite engine.

My only regret is the, sorry to say, weak pull start that I am forced to use when I put the STS in my Savage. If I could find a more reliable pull start (more reliable spring) or a roto start that would work off the corner, I would have one in my Savage immediately.

Anyway, keep up the good work, and maybe you could convince STS to somehow get a more reliable pull start. Actually I would think it great if they even simply offered a better pull start as an option to buy seperately it would be good. I can't find any other that will fit their shaft or backplate.

Dennis

dino.tw

Dear Dennis,
Would you please do a test for me? I send one stainless steel spring to you. If the new spring is ok to you,I thought it is ok to everyone. With mine weak arms,the spring will never break...
Please PM me your address & phone number!
Dino

BigGrump

Dino...

Thanks for your offer, I sent you a PM with my address, phone and e-mail.

I hope you can send the new spring already installed in a pull start assembly, as I can not seem to be able to re-wind a spring into the spool.

As I stated in my PM to you, when I receive the new pull starter with the Stainless Steel spring, I will immediately buy another new STS .28 from Racernine.com to use for the pull starter testing.

I want another STS .28 anyway for my Savage as my current one is in my Associated MGT with your roto-starter on it. Naturally, working and running great.

I think starting out on a new engine will be the most fair test of the starter, and hopefully, we can all win.


Thanks

Dennis

savagegarden

i broke my pullstart to last friday and it was the spring to
i fixed it with another spring from another brand but i don't know if it will hold up
i also noticed that sometimes (this was a couple weeks ago) the pullstart would't return after i pulled it, first i tought the spring but that was not the case (then)
so i took the rear off the savy and started to investigate
when the pulstart was blocked and i would hit it with the back off a screwdriver it would return
strange
when it took it off the engine and into my hand i could pull it a 1000 times without stopping
BUT suddenly it stopped
then i saw that the "thing" where the cord rols onto came out and "jumped" over one off the 2 copper screws that are there to keep it on his place
so there was play on it but how could i solve it????
after thinking on this problem for about an hour suddenly it hit me
why not shim the "rolling" thing a little backwards??????
(a little more deeper into the housing off the pullstart)
so i searched and searched until i found those shims i used to shim my diffs (kyosho ones) and they fitted perfectly over the notch that is 13 mm
i used 3 off them and since then it worked fine
until last friday when the spring snapped that is

au_Nightmare

My first two engines where pullstart (force .21 and hyper 8). Many times I had to pull the things apart , fixing broken springs and rewinding. The starter box must be one of the best investments, its just a pitty MT guys can't use them