STS .28 pull-start engine
07-26-2005, 02:26 AM
#196
Tech Rookie
STS Engines and Spares
hello everyone
just thought i would introduce myself to everybody.I have just started a new website in the UK and beyond supplying STS racing products,just give us a look www.sts-nitro.com.
just thought i would introduce myself to everybody.I have just started a new website in the UK and beyond supplying STS racing products,just give us a look www.sts-nitro.com.
07-27-2005, 12:56 AM
#197
Tech Rookie
Roto Start
So? 
where is the so called roto start for the sts .28 ? I thought it was promised in May? 
where is the so called roto start for the sts .28 ? I thought it was promised in May?
07-27-2005, 01:25 AM
#198
Tech Rookie
we have just sold out of the rotostart conversion.we will have somemore in about 10 days.
07-27-2005, 07:53 AM
#199
Originally Posted by geggs
we have just sold out of the rotostart conversion.we will have somemore in about 10 days.
Cleaveland models, right?
Are these the same as the ones sold on ebay for the STS .28? Dino mentioned about the problems to do with the patents for the Rotostart back plate, which is why STS couldn't sell their own design.
Has this been sorted now? Or is this Roto start backplate that is now available made by a different company under liscence from the people that hold the patent?
07-27-2005, 08:01 AM
#200
Originally Posted by dino.tw
Sorry,we have problem on the rotostart backplate. Another company FLYING-POINT Co, Ltd. claims that they have the patent right of the rotostart backplate. So we can't sell it. That is why the rotostart backplate be delayed. We are talking with the FLYING-POINT Co, Ltd. We need to buy the backplate from them then install on our engines.
Considering the the simple mechanism involved, it seems pretty stupid that there would be any Patent rights or infringements thereof. A bit like a company successfully patenting chair legs. Or wheels. Or gears. If you know what I mean!
07-28-2005, 10:22 AM
#201
Tech Rookie
thanks to Geggs fot the roto
works fine, w/o any problems
07-29-2005, 05:00 AM
#202
Looks good!
08-03-2005, 11:40 AM
#204
Tech Initiate
Just got my STS .28 in my MTA4. First couple of pulls it fired up just like my sts.12r3 did. I ran 4 tanks through it on idle (man its loud my ears are still ringing) I gave it another 4 tanks running it round on 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. I then went to give it a bit more and as soon as you go past around 2/3 throttle it splutters and stops revving, it does not cut out it just lets you think its gonna. I gave it another 4 tanks going round on 1/4 to 1/2 throttle which is incredibly boring just to see if it would have to be broken in more but when i tried again it just does the same. I tried to lean it off a little on the HSN to see if it was overly rich from factory and thats done nothing at all. Any Ideas??
Cheers
Matt
Cheers
Matt
08-04-2005, 01:13 AM
#205
Originally Posted by team-dgm
Just got my STS .28 in my MTA4. First couple of pulls it fired up just like my sts.12r3 did. I ran 4 tanks through it on idle (man its loud my ears are still ringing) I gave it another 4 tanks running it round on 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. I then went to give it a bit more and as soon as you go past around 2/3 throttle it splutters and stops revving, it does not cut out it just lets you think its gonna. I gave it another 4 tanks going round on 1/4 to 1/2 throttle which is incredibly boring just to see if it would have to be broken in more but when i tried again it just does the same. I tried to lean it off a little on the HSN to see if it was overly rich from factory and thats done nothing at all. Any Ideas??
Cheers
Matt
Cheers
Matt
08-06-2005, 01:19 PM
#206
Tech Initiate
took the mta4 out today and actually got it going. I had to lean it off loads (HSN) but it seemed to be much better and ran at a good temp. However the one way bearing started to slip every couple of pulls and then it just went completly. I took it out to have a look and it seemed fine but when I put the pullstart assembly back it slipped again. After taking out and putting it back together again a couple more times it stopped slipping. I took it out again and now it won't start. I tried to richen it back up a little but all I got was some very nice blisters.
I am using tornado 25%, standard MTA4 pipe.
Also with my sts.12 there was loads of compression and it stuck at the top for a while until it was broken in with the .28 the pull start pulls really easy if I did not know it was new I would think it was 6 months old.
I am using tornado 25%, standard MTA4 pipe.
Also with my sts.12 there was loads of compression and it stuck at the top for a while until it was broken in with the .28 the pull start pulls really easy if I did not know it was new I would think it was 6 months old.
08-06-2005, 01:45 PM
#207
Originally Posted by team-dgm
took the mta4 out today and actually got it going. I had to lean it off loads (HSN) but it seemed to be much better and ran at a good temp. However the one way bearing started to slip every couple of pulls and then it just went completly. I took it out to have a look and it seemed fine but when I put the pullstart assembly back it slipped again. After taking out and putting it back together again a couple more times it stopped slipping. I took it out again and now it won't start. I tried to richen it back up a little but all I got was some very nice blisters.
I am using tornado 25%, standard MTA4 pipe.
Also with my sts.12 there was loads of compression and it stuck at the top for a while until it was broken in with the .28 the pull start pulls really easy if I did not know it was new I would think it was 6 months old.
I am using tornado 25%, standard MTA4 pipe.
Also with my sts.12 there was loads of compression and it stuck at the top for a while until it was broken in with the .28 the pull start pulls really easy if I did not know it was new I would think it was 6 months old.
You can try to clean the one-way bearing with some cleaner. Lubricate it with some castor and try again. If it still slipping you may need a new one way bearing. Heat the adapter and replace it.
it seems your engine still too rich,try the setting;
HSN- 1.5~2t out / LSN- 3~4t out
We have to let the pull-start engine more loose otherwise it is real hard to pull when it new. You will get more nice blisters if it is as tight as our .12 engine series.
by the way,If you would like to use Tornado 25% on off-road purpose,i would suggest you to add 2% castor or more.
Regards,
Dino
08-07-2005, 06:23 AM
#208
Tech Initiate
Hi Dino
One bearing is fine now. Tried those settings and a little bit either way and still nothing apart from more bleeding blisters!
Any ideas
One bearing is fine now. Tried those settings and a little bit either way and still nothing apart from more bleeding blisters!
Any ideas
08-07-2005, 11:15 AM
#209
Originally Posted by team-dgm
Hi Dino
One bearing is fine now. Tried those settings and a little bit either way and still nothing apart from more bleeding blisters!
Any ideas
One bearing is fine now. Tried those settings and a little bit either way and still nothing apart from more bleeding blisters!
Any ideas
when you operate the pull-start system,there are some tips.
1)Before you start the engine,pull the line out fully. Then you know the total length of the line. Don't over pull it out! With a strong arm you will damage the pull-start system.
2)Why you got some bleeding blisters is because your finger touch the heat sink(cooling head). So it is important that you don't need to pull the starter from the start. You can pull the starter around 10cm out slowly,then just start to pull the starter between 10cm to 40cm distance continuous. Then your finger or hand should not touch the heat sink.
3)ok let us try to start the engine. Use your knee press on the tyres to fix your monster truck. Right hand pull the starter line out around 10cm. Left hand finger block the pipe then pull the starter line several times. Make sure the fuel be pumped into the carburetor. It not,that means the LSN is too lean or even cut the fuel supply at idle position already. Or the carb is close fully and no air bypass.
4)Put on the igniter and make sure the idle opened. Start to pull the starter between 10cm to 40cm distance continuous. After several time pulling,the engine should be started.
5)If it still not work,it most have some thing wrong. Stop to keep on trying. Try to find anything wrong. Check if the plug is fine and the igniter battery. Check if the fuel enter the carb already. Check if the idle is open enough. If you can see a lot of fuel flow out from the tuned pipe,that means the HSN is too rich.
6)After the engine started,don't loosen your hand suddenly and let the starter line return very fast. That is not cool! It may snap the return spring. You should let the inner spring return the line slowly.
Above process is what I start mine D28M. Hope you understand my poor english.
For you information.
08-07-2005, 12:32 PM
#210
Tech Initiate
Originally Posted by dino.tw
We talk about the bleeding blisters first!
when you operate the pull-start system,there are some tips.
1)Before you start the engine,pull the line out fully. Then you know the total length of the line. Don't over pull it out! With a strong arm you will damage the pull-start system.
2)Why you got some bleeding blisters is because your finger touch the heat sink(cooling head). So it is important that you don't need to pull the starter from the start. You can pull the starter around 10cm out slowly,then just start to pull the starter between 10cm to 40cm distance continuous. Then your finger or hand should not touch the heat sink.
3)ok let us try to start the engine. Use your knee press on the tyres to fix your monster truck. Right hand pull the starter line out around 10cm. Left hand finger block the pipe then pull the starter line several times. Make sure the fuel be pumped into the carburetor. It not,that means the LSN is too lean or even cut the fuel supply at idle position already. Or the carb is close fully and no air bypass.
4)Put on the igniter and make sure the idle opened. Start to pull the starter between 10cm to 40cm distance continuous. After several time pulling,the engine should be started.
5)If it still not work,it most have some thing wrong. Stop to keep on trying. Try to find anything wrong. Check if the plug is fine and the igniter battery. Check if the fuel enter the carb already. Check if the idle is open enough. If you can see a lot of fuel flow out from the tuned pipe,that means the HSN is too rich.
6)After the engine started,don't loosen your hand suddenly and let the starter line return very fast. That is not cool! It may snap the return spring. You should let the inner spring return the line slowly.
Above process is what I start mine D28M. Hope you understand my poor english. For you information.
when you operate the pull-start system,there are some tips.
1)Before you start the engine,pull the line out fully. Then you know the total length of the line. Don't over pull it out! With a strong arm you will damage the pull-start system.
2)Why you got some bleeding blisters is because your finger touch the heat sink(cooling head). So it is important that you don't need to pull the starter from the start. You can pull the starter around 10cm out slowly,then just start to pull the starter between 10cm to 40cm distance continuous. Then your finger or hand should not touch the heat sink.
3)ok let us try to start the engine. Use your knee press on the tyres to fix your monster truck. Right hand pull the starter line out around 10cm. Left hand finger block the pipe then pull the starter line several times. Make sure the fuel be pumped into the carburetor. It not,that means the LSN is too lean or even cut the fuel supply at idle position already. Or the carb is close fully and no air bypass.
4)Put on the igniter and make sure the idle opened. Start to pull the starter between 10cm to 40cm distance continuous. After several time pulling,the engine should be started.
5)If it still not work,it most have some thing wrong. Stop to keep on trying. Try to find anything wrong. Check if the plug is fine and the igniter battery. Check if the fuel enter the carb already. Check if the idle is open enough. If you can see a lot of fuel flow out from the tuned pipe,that means the HSN is too rich.
6)After the engine started,don't loosen your hand suddenly and let the starter line return very fast. That is not cool! It may snap the return spring. You should let the inner spring return the line slowly.
Above process is what I start mine D28M. Hope you understand my poor english.
For you information.Me and a friend have been at this all afternoon, we have tried every needle combination there is. Its been sounding like it wants to go but it just won't. I have tried different plugs we have used three glow plug ignitors, fuel is going into the carb it just won't fire up. A couple of times it ran for about 1 second and then it died again and it would take about 50 pulls before it did it again. It is strange because when I got it the first pull it fired up it was run in and after loads of tanks it started running ok, then the pull start slipped and since I took it apart and fixed that it won't fire. Now I know you probably think that I have not put it back together properly but I took it apart step by step and followed the same steps to put it back together, everything was sealed back up again tight and all components are moving as they should. I just don't understand.