Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Nice Pato... enjoy the build, watch the front hubs very easy to install upside down and limit up travel on the suspension. Other then that ream the arms and Loctite all the grub screws for the pullies

Enjoy
Andrew

speed6

BUMB

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Just to go a little further with building tips... I would also make sure that the front roll centre eccentric is pushed all the way into the front shock tower. We had a real struggle as it was tight in the carbon fibre shock tower, but until it was all the way back it would bind up the top suspension arm and front end wouldn't fall under its own weight. Also Loctite the bottom shock cap as it comes undone...

This thread is quite dead... we need Richard to post his expert tips now that he is a race winner

richardc7696

I just had a good run I think. If the guy in second had made those last 2 mistakes I wouldn't have won. My car felt a bit better on the matrix tyres though. Does anyone have some set-up tips for the R10. I'm just using the stock set up at present.

djiewie

What is the stock setup then?

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

http://www.hbeurope.com/pdfs/setups/...ard_Setup).pdf

Ec1

Some remarks:

1. Check your rear driveshaft as they are to long for most wheel offsets.
I am using KM wheel shafts and dogbones (kyosho also fits).
2. Check your gas tank so its closes, seams like the o-ring expands from the oil in the fuel. The spring is also very soft. The xray tank lid and spring fits.
3. We had some differential gears that has lost teets, i am using xray diffs front+rear.

Also i am getting air in my shocks pretty fast, going to try other o-rings and kyosho piston shafts.

Stock clutch is good if you replace the thrust bearing (stock is crap) and insert a harder spring. i am using the new 1/8 xray sping (Us1) tigtened 0,05mm and a 0,5mm gap.

I am also using Ride springs black rear and mostly purple or red front.
Harder shock oils 550-650. Raise the shocks up together with the soft Ride springs. also try to use the inner rear camberlink hole (longer link) for a more progressive rear end. Use shims on the rear wheel hub to get more steering.

Sadly i had little time to test but the car seems fast and easy to drive

// roland

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for tips Roland, we have had to replace the larger bearing behind the clutchbell in Richards car already as it was noisy and developed some play. I also tried the rear KM drive shafts and outdrives but found them too short at the stock 3mm of thread showing on the rear pivot balls. Maybe it would have been better with some fuel tube added to both sides, but went back to the standard setup for now.

Fuel tank lid is a concern... have similar issues on my KM Racing H-K1 EvoII

Thanks
Andrew

Ec1

Yes they are a bit short but work with Capricorn/matrix wheels. Capricorn dogbones is longer and better thou. Replacing the stock shafts is a must if you start races on big tyres.

Fueltank lid is a big concern and its the same on all my 3 tanks. what i do is i take the o-ring out between racing days and clean it and let it dry out of the tank. A friend has succesfully mounted a xray lid and spring on his tank so i will try that for the next race.

I am also replacing the 3x10mm pin on the front CVD shaft to a 12x3mm pin to save the outdrives a bit.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Roland thank you, with the tank if you press down on the lid after it has closed this helps. Richard should be racing again this Friday night weather pending. We have made some changes and will be interesting to see how he goes.

Do you just pull the pin out and the lid and spring come off the tank?

Thanks
Andrew

Ec1

Yes but you loose to much time in races doing this....
Correct just pull the pin, and replace the lid + spring with xray stuff.

djiewie

thanks.

looks like a setup for low grip high speed circuit. Don`t know what hardness the springs are? can you compare with xray or TM?? colors. It looks like the car has lots of steering already, a little less turn in from what i see in the stock setup
What do you need for your car, what do you want it to do?

richardc7696

I'm still getting used to the car to be honest. Most likely its capable of going faster than I can drive it. Maybe you can give some things to try though. The track we run on is quite bumpy and has low grip. The first half of the track has some fast flowing corners and the last half has slower tight hair-pin corners

djiewie

Ok, in priciple one wants a car wich reacts instantly without hesitation and without losing grip lets try this; one at the time please.

First try lower droop rates. Front 0 and rear 3 this will make your car very agile and you will go full throttle over the bumpy section. Try it for longer time than just a few laps, you have to get used to it.

second get the toe angle to -1 at the front that will calm it some with steering and get you some more top speed.

third put on the 2,3 rear arb for more on power and fast turn in.

forth rear toe angle 2 degr for more top speed.

fifth front diffoil 120000. this together with the rear 2,3 arb.

sixt front width to 197.

This is all with the 35 shore tires like in the setup stated.

report back after with your oppinions for more if you want. and what did the car do with every step.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Roland,

We tried it today with the lid and spring from an Xray tank and the Xray spring we have is almost flat on both ends. The Hot Bodies one had a 45 degree angle one end and flat the other... We haven't been able to get the Xray one to fit the R10 tank. Also tried a bit of fuel tube on the spring to increase tension and it made no difference as did the Xray lid with the HB spring.