Orion V2 Question
#1
Orion V2 Question
I've been dyno testing my mod motors, and I have a question about efficiency. I have a Fantom Facts dyno, and with my Orion V2 12x1 motor. When I turn up the timing, the effency increases, up until about 24degrees. The efficiency went from 40percent an 0 to 65 percent at 18. Does this mean that the higher the efficiency is worse than a lower percentage?
Does anybody have a good starting setup for this motor?
Does anybody have a good starting setup for this motor?
#2
i heard the fantom dyno can give dodgey readings, so i wouldn't trust it that much...
i haven't used a dyno my self (but looking to get a basic one, like the much more motor master etc)
i haven't used a dyno my self (but looking to get a basic one, like the much more motor master etc)
#3
The Fantom can't compare numbers with the CE or Robo dyno's, but the numbers are supposed to be consistant between other fantoms.
#4
Tech Adept
Its hard to say a lot changes in a motor from run to run. I wont ever test any mod on a dyno becasue you can never get accurate readings from one run to the next. There are too many things that happen from one run to the next especially if you let it sit and cool like you should. Ideally you should cut and re-brush from one run to the next but that in itself can change a motor even if everything is the same.
Generally what happens is that from the first run up the 3 on a normal Ti-based motor is the numbers keep getting better as the brushes seat up to the comm better, but then after that the numbers start to drop back down due to heat and the motor being worked too hard by spinning 42,000+ rpms. Its just sucks the lube out of the brushed and they start to burn. The one time I tried to spin a 7 on a fantom it cooked the brushes and comm in one spin. Having that little load being placed on a motor for that ammount of time is torture. If I raced stock or 19 more I would probably use it all the time, but for mod I have found them to be utterly useless. Even if you can get consistant readings what the motor see's on the dyno is nothing like what it see's in the car.
Generally what happens is that from the first run up the 3 on a normal Ti-based motor is the numbers keep getting better as the brushes seat up to the comm better, but then after that the numbers start to drop back down due to heat and the motor being worked too hard by spinning 42,000+ rpms. Its just sucks the lube out of the brushed and they start to burn. The one time I tried to spin a 7 on a fantom it cooked the brushes and comm in one spin. Having that little load being placed on a motor for that ammount of time is torture. If I raced stock or 19 more I would probably use it all the time, but for mod I have found them to be utterly useless. Even if you can get consistant readings what the motor see's on the dyno is nothing like what it see's in the car.