Foodie

Does anyone have any experience or ideas on how to cut the costs for both 1/10 200 mm and 1/8?

Both classes is pretty much death in my country and i suspect its down to the price regarding running in these classes... I know in Germany they have a hobby cup with mandatory engine and exhaust in the European Nitro Challenge.

Is there any other countries that have added such costs cutting ideas to their rules? Any experiences?

Thanks in advance

scary_jerry

when i was researching that same question, i met a hobbyist that was buying used cars or getting 'new' older versions out of existing inventory. needless to say, i have opted to run the more price friendly GT8 that has a great following.....no ROAR rules but a bunch of guys that love the cars!

modelfan

iTrader: (1)

Here in Ontario Canada onroad nitro is pretty close to dead. Unfortunately it seems there's only a handful of us showing up to run that class. Sadly we usually barely have enough racers to make one heat.

I don't think it's because of the cost of running nitro. I do feel that people are a little intimidated by a motor, clutch, tuning, etc. They just want to plug in a battery and go. I don't know, maybe becoming a lazy mans hobby?

With the exception of the newbies just getting into hobby I don't feel that nitro is cost prohibitive. I have seen some electric guys here running a new set of tires each qualifier and they seem to be testing a new speedo and motor combo every week. Some do have deep pockets but still wouldn't touch nitro.

minilantern

the fuel price is the biggest problem here, sometimes its hard to find and the price is relatively expensive (highly flammable liquid importing tax) for consumable item. may be running FAI class is a good idea.
and neighbours hate the way it revs

valk

iTrader: (13)

id say in my club its not about the money. there are more t311's with top of the line equipment in our 17.5 class than i can count. we usually have enough to run a full main but most people complain about having to find a pitman ect. we started the season with a full set of cars and by seasons end, had 4.


though. i run an ntc3 still and picked up 3 just to have parts cars.
my biggest quam is cost of tires but im sure i could go easier on my tires. most of the wear is probably form peeling out on corner exit. just sucks that nitro car gearing is as limited as it is. shouldnt have to true tires to get specific rollout. should just be able to change gears ect.

nitro cars are too much for me on the parking lot track, but hella fun to play with.

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

We dont true tires to change roll out, we true the tires down because the suspension works better with smaller tires.

valk

iTrader: (13)

that makes sense, but they also wear out stupid fast. i ran 35 in the rear as per clubman suggestions and almost wore the rears out in my QUALIFIERS. i broke my car in warm up in the main but i had very little left in the back and almost new in the front.

im sure once i figure out the compounds to run it wont cost as much to keep them up. though nitro cars are probably not ideal for novices. i just wanted more track time, before i got into vrc.

multi-bash

iTrader: (9)

..just lurking.. as an electric guy, this hit the nail on the head for me.

minilantern

thats why I'm running electric this year...the parking lot's owner has a baby and she hates the way it revs

blis

If you want to reduce costs you have to make the right decisions from the start. Much of the money in nitro can be wasted building up a kit and it's comprehensive when it's complete amd in excess of $2000.

When high end racing, if you want to save $$, buy used ex-racing complete kits from a racer who is moving on to other things. This way you can get included the tools, lubes and parts and that's where I feel most the money is spent. The sundry equipment, batteries, chargers, soldering irons and such apply to EP as well so that's not a cheap alternative at the hi end either.

Otherwise a pullstart GT car or 4wd offroad, hex screw upgrade, glow and wheel spanner, a fuel bottle and some simple tools and in the right hands it can be cheap to enjoy RC.

For us, buying a chassis type different from the type that a majority ran at home track meant being in self supply and the urge to always have spares is where the $$ went as well.

Finally, the biggest waste of money is a DNF... Enjoy what you have and make it work for your budget, if you have something, then get the most out of it, do your research and find what's best for you and your club racers and go with the flow.

h

"Every time I clean a model to sell it, it looks so good I want to buy it!"

kyosho malaysia

check yr weight tranfer and ratio of front and rear,it must be something wrong somewhere

trerc

iTrader: (89)

Words to live by right there!

Sadly tho most guys don't have any reservations about tossing a clapped out piece of shit in a box and sending it on it's way. That's not to say I haven't bought nice used stuff, but more often then not I spend enough money rebuilding junk that I could've almost bought a new kit... I have pretty much stopped buying used just for that reason.

valk

iTrader: (13)

still figuring out the setup on my nitro car. i got the ntc3 cause it was cheap. i got 3 with two running engines for $250. with all the pit gear, spent maybe $500 to get into the nitro cars. i knew id hit stuff and brake parts, so much happier with this route than buying a shiney nt1 or similar and spending hundreds on parts.

its not the most pleasant car to work on though so my setup experience is still limited. took a whole season of racing and crashing to get it to a point where it was somewhat consistant but ill have to put about $100 into it in new parts. shock parts, axles bearings ect.

my electric car... the only part i broke so far is my servo saver which was like $5.
i have a ton of spare parts cause i am that guy who runs the different brand, but i havent had to replace anything other than normal wear stuff. bearings, rebuilt shocks at end of season ect.

either im just lucky, or im not hitting stuff in the way that kills cars like i see quite often on our track. the worst i think i saw was busted shock bodies. wtf is with plastic shock bodies on a $500 car?

JamesUK

ebay is your best friend to keep the cost down, especially at this time of year when the season is over for the pros and they want to cash in on all there freebies, when I started in nitro I bought cheap and payed the price, cheap and nitro = frustration, but visit ebay and you can find high quality items like hudy setup station or tire truers, bulk buy tires and even bulk fuel for a fraction of the price, but be warned from previous experience ebay is a place nitro engines go to die, I always buy engines new, thats one cost that remains high.

Roelof

In Belgium there is a 1/8 competition based on affordable Picco engines. In Holland there is 1 group 1/10 running the N12T1 stock engine and the N21-5T is used on 1 club and more clubs are interested.

Trueing tires is something I do not like. Although I know starting the right size does give a better performance it is wise to start your 1st training rounds on full tires, by the time thet are on size you have the track in the fingers. Also running a final it can make a difference between yes or no of a tire change.

Regarding bad available and expensive fuel. Why not mix your own? Methanol and nitro can be bought at industral companies, with the right contacts it shouldn't be a probblem. A good 2-stroke oil for the use with methanol can be bought at the local motorcycle or even kart shop.Mixing your own fuel is making half the price as commercial fuel, thats why some clubs do mix their own fuel. Pilon racing RC airplaines here in holland need to run on 20% oil and 80% methanol. no nitro is saving a lot.