nitro TC3 chassis questions
#1
nitro TC3 chassis questions
I have heard of chassis warping around the motor mounts... Just wondering if any of you have seen this problem..
I have noticed that you can get the following chassis from associated:
ASC1752 Hard Anodizd Chassis Blck
ASC1754 Hard Anodizd Chassis Nat
are these simply hard anodized or thicker then the kit chassis.
for about 10$ more canadian i was thinking of this 3mm unit that includes motor mounts when i feel the need to replace the kit one:
02410 7075-T6 Chassis w/Engine Mount from gh hobbies
I have noticed that you can get the following chassis from associated:
ASC1752 Hard Anodizd Chassis Blck
ASC1754 Hard Anodizd Chassis Nat
are these simply hard anodized or thicker then the kit chassis.
for about 10$ more canadian i was thinking of this 3mm unit that includes motor mounts when i feel the need to replace the kit one:
02410 7075-T6 Chassis w/Engine Mount from gh hobbies
#2
oh boy... you raced your car once and now you need HOP UP already I like your car however
#3
You know me im not usually one for hop-ups. But i have this thing with thin nitro chassis. They should all be 3mm or thicker!
for this car here are some must have items to be able to race long hard mains:
-rpm from bumper(original kydex thing is crap)
-titanium pivot balls(assicated steel balls i think were purposely created out of garbage steel to make us by the aftermarket ones, no other car with pivot ball suspension has weaker ones then this car)
-3mm chassis if this warping issue is for real.
for this car here are some must have items to be able to race long hard mains:
-rpm from bumper(original kydex thing is crap)
-titanium pivot balls(assicated steel balls i think were purposely created out of garbage steel to make us by the aftermarket ones, no other car with pivot ball suspension has weaker ones then this car)
-3mm chassis if this warping issue is for real.
#4
Tech Initiate
FYI - I know have 4 gallons of fuel thru my car at one of biggest and fastest tracks in the country. 280x135. I have not had any of the problems you are talking about.
My chassis is not bent
I have bent (1) stock pivot ball
I have yet to break a single a-arm
The shock towers have come loose however. I fixed this buy using long screws into the trans case.
The bumper has broken and I replace with the elec TC3 front bumper assy with an elec TC3 front assy and Buds Kydex.
My chassis is not bent
I have bent (1) stock pivot ball
I have yet to break a single a-arm
The shock towers have come loose however. I fixed this buy using long screws into the trans case.
The bumper has broken and I replace with the elec TC3 front bumper assy with an elec TC3 front assy and Buds Kydex.
#5
The chassis issue is a rumor i have heard off but yet to confirm.
The bumper as you know is weak very weak, and the RPM unit should fix that problem. Ill look at my electric tc3 and see about borrowing its bumper and buds add on.
As for the pivot balls breaking its something i have read about on a few forums and they broke on me first race out. Im not a hack driver but did clip an apex to snap one. WE race on a temporary parkinglot track that uses dual 2x4 walls with cinder blox to hold them in place. So there is not much give... Not sure where yur track is but if its that size im assuming it has more fogiving walls? or none?
The bumper as you know is weak very weak, and the RPM unit should fix that problem. Ill look at my electric tc3 and see about borrowing its bumper and buds add on.
As for the pivot balls breaking its something i have read about on a few forums and they broke on me first race out. Im not a hack driver but did clip an apex to snap one. WE race on a temporary parkinglot track that uses dual 2x4 walls with cinder blox to hold them in place. So there is not much give... Not sure where yur track is but if its that size im assuming it has more fogiving walls? or none?
#6
Just got back from the Norrca Nats - only injury was a broken bumper, lower arm and trans case (from throttle servo getting stuck wide open - hello wall!) - no pivot ball or chassis problems.
Track wasn't very forgiving - you tended to BOUNCE back into traffic if you hit anything except the back straight wall which was VERY unforgiving. . .
Anyway, 20 minute main plus 4 qualifers and probably two hours of practicing. . .no serious injuries that I didn't expect.
Track wasn't very forgiving - you tended to BOUNCE back into traffic if you hit anything except the back straight wall which was VERY unforgiving. . .
Anyway, 20 minute main plus 4 qualifers and probably two hours of practicing. . .no serious injuries that I didn't expect.
#7
Tech Initiate
Joel - I run at Nats track in Cincinnati. Your right about car friendly the layout is painted on with birms around turns just like F1 racing. There are boards between the lanes but it isnt as bad as a Parking lot track.
If you try the Elec car bumper you need to do the following.
1. Cut the front of your chassis plate straight across. Remove the center hole.
2. Use the elec F+2 front mtg block. Open the hinge pin holes up. Nitro has bigger hinge pins.
3. Add a couple shims to take out end play in the front a-arms on the hinge pins. You'll see when you try it.
4. Bolt on the Elec front bumper and add the Buds bumper and a std foam bumper from Assoc or Trinity or what ever.
5. I also have a stiffener from the bumper to the trans case. Just a tie rod. Put a ball end in the center hole of the trans case and one on a standoff mtd to the Buds bumper. About 2 inches long. This keeps the bumper from ever sagging.
If you try the Elec car bumper you need to do the following.
1. Cut the front of your chassis plate straight across. Remove the center hole.
2. Use the elec F+2 front mtg block. Open the hinge pin holes up. Nitro has bigger hinge pins.
3. Add a couple shims to take out end play in the front a-arms on the hinge pins. You'll see when you try it.
4. Bolt on the Elec front bumper and add the Buds bumper and a std foam bumper from Assoc or Trinity or what ever.
5. I also have a stiffener from the bumper to the trans case. Just a tie rod. Put a ball end in the center hole of the trans case and one on a standoff mtd to the Buds bumper. About 2 inches long. This keeps the bumper from ever sagging.
#8
Tech Initiate
#9
Tech Rookie
No problem with the chassis yet but the rear diff outdrives are wearing from the cv pins, I was getting 6 months hard racing from Kyosho V1r but these have got notches after just 4 race meets. My diffs back off during 20 minute finals and the front bumper lasted till I hit a board. I hate the clutch and pipe to bits and am looking forward to the Kawahara clutch.
Otherwise the car is super fast.
Otherwise the car is super fast.