twelvegauge

iTrader: (7)

Any updates on the car? Setups, parts, upgrades, etc?
I should have mine out on the track this weekend to see what it can do.
Does any one run the spool? I'm not sure if I like the diff out frount.

twelvegauge

iTrader: (7)

Any one try the Kyosho 500,000 diff lube in the front diff? I was told it is much thicker. My front diff is pretty loose after a few laps with the T.M lube.

RC Infos

Hello

We are almost all using the front spool. To use front diff, I recommend to put Ride Putty with hard silicone oil on the diff.

Outdoor setups:
-http://blog.hrcdistribution.com/setups/2012_04_22_LR_Pierrelatte_E4RS_II_WPV.pdf
-http://blog.hrcdistribution.com/setups/2012_04_29_SRCCA_Aigle_E4RS_II_SA.pdf

twelvegauge

iTrader: (7)

Thanks, I just saw this post but I put duct putty in my front diff over the weekend and it was much better.
I just practiced with the car in between rounds while dialing it in and I love it so far. Way better than my Associated car's

twelvegauge

iTrader: (7)

I think the spool will be in my next order from A Main .
Why is there no gossiper about this car on this thread? I know it's new but share please.
I'll be running mine in the Asphalt Assult starting this weekend at The Track in Winthrope Harbor Illinois U.S.A.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/wisconsi...lt-2012-a.html

dshy

iTrader: (6)

Finished my kit today. I'll be running it on asphalt in the coming weeks. Ill post any discoveries, ive installed most of the option upgrades from k factory. I've read some about the older e4 being a bit stiff, with a rigid frames with less flex , what's a good f/r coil strength combo? standard is f27 r25.

Kensei

- what gear diff putty to use? Are there different thicknesses?
- can the job be done with thick oil? I am not a big fan of the putty. With oil what thickness to use for racing on asphalt low to medium grip?
- which spurs do fit for this car?
- can one find a good setup with only using the parts that are in the kit? (racing on asphalt low and medium grip)
- if not, what parts to buy? Springs, shock oil, roll bars and so on
- what does the car weigh, race ready? (must not be over 1,350g)
- is topdeck tuning possible, for instance to get more flex in low grip situations? I mean for instance removing screws

dshy

iTrader: (6)

The kit does not come with putty. The oil in the front is 500k and has good movement and the rear is 1k. K Factory also has an optional front dif i believe this is a spool
The factory tooth is 64p
French ace Fabien Valantin just the received the car some days before the race, and won the French Championship Warm-Up at Montbrison with his out-of-the-box Team Magic E4RS II in the Stock Category (10.5 motor limit).
referenced: http://blog.hrcdistribution.com/?p=510
K Factory has many optional parts to replace parts that are molded w/ parts that are AL and CF
This car is designed for competition you should have no weight issues
There chassis flex options in both the upper and lower deck, this is done by using or not using certain hex screws and washers in different locations.

This car is very high quality has many driving geometry settings to tune to your track and your style. This car is very good out of the box, I would suggest getting maintenance parts, and parts prone to wear.

dshy

iTrader: (6)

I uploaded a time laps assembling the E4RSII

https://vimeo.com/42988448

dshy

iTrader: (6)

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/team...gicE4RSII.html

RC Infos

The original source of 99% of these informations is http://blog.hrcdistribution.com/

I spend a lot of time on our blog... so I would prefer you goes on directly ^^

The_Underdog

Things that I'd picked up from my E4RS2

---------------------

1: the diff oils that comes with the kit is inadequate, (and is very hard to get the kit grease out for the tube)
after a day of running the car, the front diff (with the "so-called" kit 500K grease) will start to wear off!

2: I'd found some binding of the rear suspension holder with the suspension arm itself; however the rear susp. holder will eventually wear out once you run the car more often.

3: Shocks, personally that is probably not the best design of all the shocks that I'd used so far.
For me it was very hard to set the re-bounce of the shock due to its design. And don't even get there if you want to get a replacement piston . So I'll be getting the XRAY T3 shocks set withing the coming month. (even thou it'll cost more that USD$70 to replaced all 4 shocks, spare availability and setup of the shock is MUCH better than the kit one)

4: the CF kit chassis will lose its rigidity after a few month of use;
although the chassis can be stiffen up (using more countersunk screw in the bottom deck and also mounting hols on the top deck). A thicker deck can be brought as an option...

5: spur gear options:
I'd managed to used the 48 pitch spur, but I'd to drilled a counter-sunk edge on the spur gear to get it to work. and with some gearing ratio, larger pinion will not be able to be used in the car!
For my car right now, I'm sticking to the kit spur and changing the pinions when needed.

----------------------

The car needs the following items to stay competitive amongst other drivers (against their T3-2012, AR TC6.1 and photon EX)
1: either from KFactory, or from XRAY Spool, I'm using the XRAY lightweight reinforced spool for the T3 (38T), and that alone had make a huge difference

2: stabilizer stopper! the kit holder only holds the stabilizer in place, but there's plenty of horizontal play in both the front and the rear of the stabilizer. I'm using the tamiya one for the time being [TA# -53827]

3: The "Xray T3 Steel Shim For Lower Sus. Holder" will be also comes in handy, the kit car has a toe-in of -2.5 degrees, and I'd found that I'll need more rear toe-in for this car in most of the track that I'm using. adding 0.4mm will give the car -3.0 degrees rear toe-in. but one need to get a few different one to fine-tuned the car.

Stuff that I'd broken from my car so far is the shock ball joint from the rear of the car (someone took me out in the 90 sweeper), I'd replaced with the "T3 Shock Ball Joint - Long (4)" because the local distributor does not carry this part..

dshy

iTrader: (6)

I was talking with the owner of one of my local hobby shops on friday, he just got back from the reedy race down in california, and reported that the guys down there were using silicone earplugs in their front diff for the the equivalent of about 1,000,000 weight gear fluid. I haven't tried this yet, but I will most likely take the advice of many people and get the K factory front spool.

If anyone tries this, share how it works

I'm assuming they are using an equivalent to the link below.
http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/wal...003969-product

Phil2112

iTrader: (1)

Still haveing a great runs with the kit. Running it in Mod and Chassis is holding up pretty well....w/ 6.5t. I have a little trouble balancing out the shocks... shocks take time to get just right just like any other shocks. I'm still running a gear diff with 50,000 in the front. I'm pretty sure the car will be better with a solid in the front though, just havent had a chance to get one. I have had to replace the large gaskets in the diffs a couple of times... they do wear a bit. The biggest issue I've had is the sterring knuckles. I have broke a few due to my driving. They have been replaced with aluminum ones and due hold up much better. You will need to check the bearing inside the C-hubs after hard crashes and may need to shim the top or bottom of the knuckle if your using x-ray or photon knuckles.
All-in all.... The issues with the kit are minor. Just like any other race kit you will need to put a little creativity into fixing some of the problems you may have with a kit. The rear of the car is the part of the car I'm having trouble dialing in. I have no hang ups in the suspension. I dont practice enough with the car to get it just right.
I am the only TM car at the track and do just fine with the compition of T3s, TOP EX, and Associateds.
As far as geting parts for the car... WolfHobbies is spot on. If the don't have it they will get it.

Phil2112

iTrader: (1)

If you like to car .... good for you. If you want to argue, please send all gripes and complaint to: NO ON CARES...!
If you now feel the urge to argue, please send your feeling to: NO ONE CARES!

Seriously, I was just posting some stuff. Theres no need to sending PMs me or getting ur panties in a bunch. Lets just calm down, pull them out and continue racing at ur best.

Please do not send me a PM just agreeing with me but also letting me know how good you think you are because.... you guessed it.....lol.... I DONT CARE REEDY RACE.