Team Associated RC8.2e Thread
#61
Tech Regular
Not waiting 'till Christmas, though.
#62
Power: Personal experience. Castle Mamba Monster Max Esc. Not the Mamba Max Pro. The MMM is Damn near bullet proof. Tekin's RX8 is a great performer, though is not quite as reliable as the Castle MMM. I've used both, the tekin is marginally smoother of the bottom, but it switches to sensorless once rolling...
I like Tekin Motors. Make sure you purchase the cans designed for buggies and really, the 1700kv motor geared right and on 4 cells is plenty of power. Plenty.
Purchase mod1 pinions between 14 and 17t. Purchase a 44t spur. With these gears you can pretty much get your gearing right, no matter how big a track may be.
Good luck, you picked a great chassis.
*disclaimer: I'm not an expert. Not even a Professional in the field. Just research and experiment well.
#63
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
I had a Mamba Monster, and the only little thing I really disliked about it is the cogging if you're trying to start the car moving slowly and smoothly. If you just hammer the throttle, it worked fine. Also, if you are rolling backward, the ESC would hesitate before applying throttle. Most guys I know that use the MMM aren't bothered by those annoyances, but I was, so I went with an RX8, and I've been very happy with it. I think either one is a fine choice, but I do prefer the smoothness of the sensored start up on the RX8; however I prefer the wiring connections on the MMM.
For a servo, I think it really depends on your budget. My $70 Savox 1258TG was the best for the money. Not quite 200 in*oz of torque, but I never had any problems with it, even with a few nasty crashes. Savox is offering the $50 rebate on brushless servos, so you can get a $150 SB-2271SG Savox for $100. Too bad it doesn't have Ti gears to make it a little more lightweight, though.
I just measured the tray in my RC8Be. It's 144mm x 54mm without the padding and 139mm x 49mm with the padding.
#64
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Perfect gearing on a 1900kv was 19T or 20T pinion on the stock spur.
I am using 21T now but only because I am using a 1400kv motor. I could use 22T.
Use one of many gearing sites on the web and gear around 35mph based on the number of batt cells you plan to use and kv of motor if you race and you will compete anywhere. Smaller track, you may drop a tooth...larger track, maybe go up one but always temp your motor after 5 min and you will find the sweet spot.
#66
thanks for all the help with a set up.
but just another newbie question kinda, what would be the difference be between a 4s or 2' 2s battery's, and would you get a series or parallel connecter... then would you have to charge them one at a time or is their a way to charge them both at the same time? reason i ask is because it would be cool to have the same battery's for my 1/10 and 1/8 cars
thanks josh
but just another newbie question kinda, what would be the difference be between a 4s or 2' 2s battery's, and would you get a series or parallel connecter... then would you have to charge them one at a time or is their a way to charge them both at the same time? reason i ask is because it would be cool to have the same battery's for my 1/10 and 1/8 cars
thanks josh
#67
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
I prefer a single 4S (or 6S) battery to simplify wiring
If you want to use two 2S batteries, you'll want to connect them in series so that you'll get 4S voltage.
It's best to charge them together so you can get all the voltages balanced together, IMO. I imagine it wouldn't hurt to charge them separately, but I wouldn't want the cells to get too far out of balance when running them.
If you want to use two 2S batteries, you'll want to connect them in series so that you'll get 4S voltage.
It's best to charge them together so you can get all the voltages balanced together, IMO. I imagine it wouldn't hurt to charge them separately, but I wouldn't want the cells to get too far out of balance when running them.
#68
thanks
now on the motor im debating on a 1900 or 2050kv which would you prefer. idk why most people are going towards lower kv motors, couldn't you get a 2050 and if it was to fast just drop a tooth or 2 on the pinion?
now on the motor im debating on a 1900 or 2050kv which would you prefer. idk why most people are going towards lower kv motors, couldn't you get a 2050 and if it was to fast just drop a tooth or 2 on the pinion?
#70
but i dont understand whats better about lower kv motors? is their anything better
#72
thanks for all the help
josh
josh
#73
Yes, lower kv motors are more efficient and make more torque. Your motor selection should probably be based on whether or not you're going to be racing; you'd have to check and see what batteries are allowed at the tracks you'd be running at. For example, at my track we're limited to a 4S lipo, so everybody's running motors in the 1700-2250 kv range. If this rule isn't in place and you're allowed to run a 6S, then lower kv motors would be a better choice with a 6S since they'd be just as fast but would have lower current draw, lower operating temperatures, and the potential for more run time depending on the capacity of your battery.
#75
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
I am getting ready to convert my 8B with worlds towers to electric for the winter. I have a question regarding gearing. I will be running a Orion ESC/ 1750 motor on 4s. What is a good gearing combo to start with on a medium sized indoor track? I currently have the 44T stock gear in my nitro and the conversion kit comes with the 46 and 50 along wth 15 and 16 tooth pinions, I believe. I havn't purchased any more pinions yet. This will be my first run at electric in a long time as well as my first brushless buggy.