Best and minimum requirement chasis for Touring?
#1
Best and minimum requirement chasis for Touring?
Hi guys, firstly I would like to say hello as I'm new in the forum.
Secondly, I'd like to ask in your opinion, what's the best chasis
for touring competition that you guys can recommend?
I was recommended Tamiya 417 by my friend,
but I really would like to hear your thoughts.
Also, what's the cheapest / minimal requirement chasis
to enter touring competition? I was told TA05 by my friend once
again as TT01's hardware just isn't good enough to enter
touring competition.
Secondly, I'd like to ask in your opinion, what's the best chasis
for touring competition that you guys can recommend?
I was recommended Tamiya 417 by my friend,
but I really would like to hear your thoughts.
Also, what's the cheapest / minimal requirement chasis
to enter touring competition? I was told TA05 by my friend once
again as TT01's hardware just isn't good enough to enter
touring competition.
#2
The gearing in the TT01 is what limits it the most. If you're looking to buy a brand new TC the best is an Associated TC6.
#4
But the TC6 is the least expensive and has the best parts availability. And from what I've seen at my local track, the toughest and wins the most. The Xrays and others are beautiful cars but I could never justify the extra $150 they cost. Xray parts especially are twice the price of Associated parts.
#5
#6
Hi guys, firstly I would like to say hello as I'm new in the forum.
Secondly, I'd like to ask in your opinion, what's the best chasis
for touring competition that you guys can recommend?
I was recommended Tamiya 417 by my friend,
but I really would like to hear your thoughts.
Also, what's the cheapest / minimal requirement chasis
to enter touring competition? I was told TA05 by my friend once
again as TT01's hardware just isn't good enough to enter
touring competition.
Secondly, I'd like to ask in your opinion, what's the best chasis
for touring competition that you guys can recommend?
I was recommended Tamiya 417 by my friend,
but I really would like to hear your thoughts.
Also, what's the cheapest / minimal requirement chasis
to enter touring competition? I was told TA05 by my friend once
again as TT01's hardware just isn't good enough to enter
touring competition.
With local guys running the same car you will be able to get good advice and setup help?
#9
Tech Master
iTrader: (45)
I'm still running a Factory Team TC3 for my on-road 17.5 2s.
The car is pretty much bullet proof after some minor mods. I picked the roller up for $60.
Novak 17.5 SS combo around $100
Some on-road shock fluids, extra heat sink, aluminum steering rack, a better servo (5645MG), and since it's the FT edition it comes with sways. I had some extra springs laying around I swapped in and now the car is dialed pretty well with the help of our local racers at the track.
All in all about $200 and I was off to the races. I am running a Venom 2s 5000mah 50C pack. It has taken some pretty hard hits and broken a few arms but since the roller came with a bunch of graphite replacement parts all the repairs were done in the pit.
Oh and as far as the TT-01 goes...that's a total beginner's car. For the price to hop it up and make it race worthy it still has terrible turning and even with the top chassis brace on the TT-01E it hardly does anything. Nothing is adjustable on the arms too. For the kit price and your electronics it already cost more than my TC3.
TC3 parts are literally everywhere...eBay, HobbyTown, rcmart, you name it!
The car is pretty much bullet proof after some minor mods. I picked the roller up for $60.
Novak 17.5 SS combo around $100
Some on-road shock fluids, extra heat sink, aluminum steering rack, a better servo (5645MG), and since it's the FT edition it comes with sways. I had some extra springs laying around I swapped in and now the car is dialed pretty well with the help of our local racers at the track.
All in all about $200 and I was off to the races. I am running a Venom 2s 5000mah 50C pack. It has taken some pretty hard hits and broken a few arms but since the roller came with a bunch of graphite replacement parts all the repairs were done in the pit.
Oh and as far as the TT-01 goes...that's a total beginner's car. For the price to hop it up and make it race worthy it still has terrible turning and even with the top chassis brace on the TT-01E it hardly does anything. Nothing is adjustable on the arms too. For the kit price and your electronics it already cost more than my TC3.
TC3 parts are literally everywhere...eBay, HobbyTown, rcmart, you name it!
#10
TT-01 is a brilliant car for the complete beginner - probably the best. Easy to build, easy to drive.
Once you are able to run five minutes without crashing then you will soon reach the TT-01s limits. It's not that fast over a lap compared to the competition.
Tamiya's TA05/TA06 series can be very competitive with the high end cars, they share the suspension of the 417.
All the high-end chassis now are very similar, choose the one with best parts and setup support locally, or the one that looks the prettiest to your eyes.
Once you are able to run five minutes without crashing then you will soon reach the TT-01s limits. It's not that fast over a lap compared to the competition.
Tamiya's TA05/TA06 series can be very competitive with the high end cars, they share the suspension of the 417.
All the high-end chassis now are very similar, choose the one with best parts and setup support locally, or the one that looks the prettiest to your eyes.
#11
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
I'm going to put up another post for finding a used TC3, you can generally snag a roller with some parts for between $50 and $75 and parts are still being manufactured by associated, they very seldom break and are less apt to get tweeked after taking a solid hit to the wall like more modern chassis will.
Granted I have more tuning time invested in my TC3 but currently at the local track I run at running 17.5 blinky my fast lap with my TC3 was a 14.3 my best lap so far (after only having it for a week granted) with my TC6 was a 14.4. I was also running an old LRP Sphere and used and abused (read also has been above 200 a couple times) Duo3 motor with a cheap lipo in the TC3, I have a SXX stock spec, new Revtech 17.5 and a the same lipo in the TC6. Its not about how much money you throw at it but how you drive it. The only advantage to a more modern car is that you will have more tuning options with them. I find that setup help is universal, you tell someone what the car is doing and what you want it to do and they will suggest you lean the shocks in some, doesn't matter what car you run that advice would be the same.
Base setup would really be the only setup help you could get for one chassis over another, where you go from there is up to your driving style
Edit: honestly what I would suggest from the start is to buy a good radio, lipo, and updateable ESC. The motor of the month normaly changes so an older motor would be fine while you learn and the fact that it might be a little slower and less twitchy could be helpful. Buying a cheap used chassis allows you to beat the crap out of it while you learn and next year you can buy a new chassis. If you really want somthing new Associated has the TC5 on clearence on there website for $200 brand new and since all the a-arms, caster blocks, ect ect are interchangeable with the new TC6 if you build a box of spares you dont have to throw it away if you want to get the new car. You can get a cheap lipo but they dont last, if you buy a good name brand lipo they generally last longer in my experiance. You dont need to go expensive, I find the 28c revtech pack to be Very peppy for the price and a higher punch higher C battery is not what you want if your new to the game. As for the ESC, the Tekin RS is about the best and about the cheapest. they can run blinky and are one of the best boosted ESC's on the market. Being updateable means you wont ever have to upgrade it later on. The radio should be whatever feels comfortable to you, but I find its one of the most important things to spend your money on in RC, cheap radio's are just on/off switches and dont give much controlability of the car and an uncomfortable radio just bugs you while your trying to drive. Dont buy what everybody else has, buy what you've had in your hands that feels comfortable and has a decent reputation
Granted I have more tuning time invested in my TC3 but currently at the local track I run at running 17.5 blinky my fast lap with my TC3 was a 14.3 my best lap so far (after only having it for a week granted) with my TC6 was a 14.4. I was also running an old LRP Sphere and used and abused (read also has been above 200 a couple times) Duo3 motor with a cheap lipo in the TC3, I have a SXX stock spec, new Revtech 17.5 and a the same lipo in the TC6. Its not about how much money you throw at it but how you drive it. The only advantage to a more modern car is that you will have more tuning options with them. I find that setup help is universal, you tell someone what the car is doing and what you want it to do and they will suggest you lean the shocks in some, doesn't matter what car you run that advice would be the same.
Base setup would really be the only setup help you could get for one chassis over another, where you go from there is up to your driving style
Edit: honestly what I would suggest from the start is to buy a good radio, lipo, and updateable ESC. The motor of the month normaly changes so an older motor would be fine while you learn and the fact that it might be a little slower and less twitchy could be helpful. Buying a cheap used chassis allows you to beat the crap out of it while you learn and next year you can buy a new chassis. If you really want somthing new Associated has the TC5 on clearence on there website for $200 brand new and since all the a-arms, caster blocks, ect ect are interchangeable with the new TC6 if you build a box of spares you dont have to throw it away if you want to get the new car. You can get a cheap lipo but they dont last, if you buy a good name brand lipo they generally last longer in my experiance. You dont need to go expensive, I find the 28c revtech pack to be Very peppy for the price and a higher punch higher C battery is not what you want if your new to the game. As for the ESC, the Tekin RS is about the best and about the cheapest. they can run blinky and are one of the best boosted ESC's on the market. Being updateable means you wont ever have to upgrade it later on. The radio should be whatever feels comfortable to you, but I find its one of the most important things to spend your money on in RC, cheap radio's are just on/off switches and dont give much controlability of the car and an uncomfortable radio just bugs you while your trying to drive. Dont buy what everybody else has, buy what you've had in your hands that feels comfortable and has a decent reputation