1LikesXray T3 2012
01-11-2012, 01:00 PM
#1216
As long as you use the same method you are fine.
If you measure different from day to day you get lost.
Also comparison is difficult because it is not clear how and where exactly everybody measures.
Till now I just worked with the downstop.
Fine for me. Because if I adjust it to a different downstop I get the behaviour in the direction I want and I can reproduce it.
Short: I dont mind at the moment what the droop is.
If you measure different from day to day you get lost.
Also comparison is difficult because it is not clear how and where exactly everybody measures.
Till now I just worked with the downstop.
Fine for me. Because if I adjust it to a different downstop I get the behaviour in the direction I want and I can reproduce it.
Short: I dont mind at the moment what the droop is.
01-11-2012, 03:27 PM
#1217
As long as you use the same method you are fine.
If you measure different from day to day you get lost.
Also comparison is difficult because it is not clear how and where exactly everybody measures.
Till now I just worked with the downstop.
Fine for me. Because if I adjust it to a different downstop I get the behaviour in the direction I want and I can reproduce it.
Short: I dont mind at the moment what the droop is.
If you measure different from day to day you get lost.
Also comparison is difficult because it is not clear how and where exactly everybody measures.
Till now I just worked with the downstop.
Fine for me. Because if I adjust it to a different downstop I get the behaviour in the direction I want and I can reproduce it.
Short: I dont mind at the moment what the droop is.
now i have to think like u...from the discussion above,seems like droop is not as essential as downstop...
01-11-2012, 04:12 PM
#1218
Droop and downstop both refer to the amount of suspension arm down travel your setup allows, but are measured in different ways, at different times, and for different reasons.
If you're trying to imitate someone else's setup, you need to know the amount of droop [suspension downtravel/ chassis uptravel allowed, usually in mm over ride height] they're using, because droop takes into account ride height, tire size, insert firmness, etc. If you use someone else's setup and downstop settings, and you're not using that person's tires, you're not truly running their setup.
If you ONLY measure and change your setup with setup wheels or measuring blocks on a setup station, downstop is a repeatable method to set your suspension down travel. Unless you're incredibly lucky to have a set of tires end up at ride height without any shock spring adjustments ever, every time you re-adjust ride height to compensate for tire insert compression and tire carcass thinning, your also going to be taking droop away.
Bottom line, you can't use one method exclusively over the other. I start by setting downstop, then I set ride height, check and set the droop I want over ride height [ORH], then re-check my downstop to make sure left and right suspensions are set identical, then put the car on the track. After each run, recheck ride height and droop before making any other changes to the car, both can cause handling issues if they're not right.
If you're trying to imitate someone else's setup, you need to know the amount of droop [suspension downtravel/ chassis uptravel allowed, usually in mm over ride height] they're using, because droop takes into account ride height, tire size, insert firmness, etc. If you use someone else's setup and downstop settings, and you're not using that person's tires, you're not truly running their setup.
If you ONLY measure and change your setup with setup wheels or measuring blocks on a setup station, downstop is a repeatable method to set your suspension down travel. Unless you're incredibly lucky to have a set of tires end up at ride height without any shock spring adjustments ever, every time you re-adjust ride height to compensate for tire insert compression and tire carcass thinning, your also going to be taking droop away.
Bottom line, you can't use one method exclusively over the other. I start by setting downstop, then I set ride height, check and set the droop I want over ride height [ORH], then re-check my downstop to make sure left and right suspensions are set identical, then put the car on the track. After each run, recheck ride height and droop before making any other changes to the car, both can cause handling issues if they're not right.
01-11-2012, 06:32 PM
#1219
OK, This DROOP and DOWNSTOP thing gets a little crazy. My opinion: I think "DOWNSTOP" is used by XRAY and measured at the arms and is a generic measurement. Droop is more of an actual tuning option. Droop will limit the uptravel of the chassis to assist in weight transfer. Such as if you need a little more steering you might use less up travel (which would be more droop) in the front of the chassis. I just wonder why downstops get measured with droop blocks,(Kind of like why do we park in a driveway and drive in a parkway.)? It should be standardized as droop and measured above ride height so it would end all confusion and the extra work of setting downstops then setting droop. Just the input of a club racer always willing to learn more.
01-11-2012, 06:46 PM
#1220
Tech Fanatic
Technically droop is referred to as down travel. Meaning how far the wheel or shock will travel down. Up travel is adjusted by shortening or making the shock longer.If you shorten the shock the useable shock shaft is shorter there for allowing the wheel to travel upwards less. Use this when you get a lot of roll to reduce roll. it will keep the chassis on the weighted side (outside of turn) from compressing so much that the chassis scrapes the ground.
And for the record, I set ride height, then do droop by raising the chassis to get the measurement over ride height. If I then feel the car is rolling to much you can fine tune the roll with the shock length. However you will need to go back and reset ride height and droop. I did like when the Losi JRXS had separate screws for up travel and down travel. It was easier.
Downstops = the point at which you set the stop of downward wheel travel.
Droop = the amount the chassis will droop from a fully extended suspension to ride height.
And for the record, I set ride height, then do droop by raising the chassis to get the measurement over ride height. If I then feel the car is rolling to much you can fine tune the roll with the shock length. However you will need to go back and reset ride height and droop. I did like when the Losi JRXS had separate screws for up travel and down travel. It was easier.
Downstops = the point at which you set the stop of downward wheel travel.
Droop = the amount the chassis will droop from a fully extended suspension to ride height.
Last edited by DJG24; 01-11-2012 at 07:07 PM.
01-12-2012, 05:24 PM
#1225
FYI you do know that part of leveling out the car is a combination of adjusting not only the left rear shock but in combination with the right front shock. Then a fine tune adjust between the 2 rear ones to get the final level out. Also equal shock length is very critical of these adjustments as well. And finally making sure your springs are close in length and stiffness.
01-12-2012, 06:34 PM
#1226
do you guys know if a pain the windows black on my bodies would that be roar legal
01-12-2012, 07:38 PM
#1227
01-12-2012, 08:13 PM
#1228
Technically droop is referred to as down travel. Meaning how far the wheel or shock will travel down. Up travel is adjusted by shortening or making the shock longer.If you shorten the shock the useable shock shaft is shorter there for allowing the wheel to travel upwards less. Use this when you get a lot of roll to reduce roll. it will keep the chassis on the weighted side (outside of turn) from compressing so much that the chassis scrapes the ground.
And for the record, I set ride height, then do droop by raising the chassis to get the measurement over ride height. If I then feel the car is rolling to much you can fine tune the roll with the shock length. However you will need to go back and reset ride height and droop. I did like when the Losi JRXS had separate screws for up travel and down travel. It was easier.
Downstops = the point at which you set the stop of downward wheel travel.
Droop = the amount the chassis will droop from a fully extended suspension to ride height.
And for the record, I set ride height, then do droop by raising the chassis to get the measurement over ride height. If I then feel the car is rolling to much you can fine tune the roll with the shock length. However you will need to go back and reset ride height and droop. I did like when the Losi JRXS had separate screws for up travel and down travel. It was easier.
Downstops = the point at which you set the stop of downward wheel travel.
Droop = the amount the chassis will droop from a fully extended suspension to ride height.
01-13-2012, 05:48 AM
#1229
Tech Apprentice
I am using the dynamite gauges and this has got me thinking about the values. I wonder how these compare as I have just been using the 5 and 6 that the setup sheet suggests.
What droop values do these numbers give you? 2mm of drrop seems to come up a bit but wouldn't it be different front and rear is using 6 and 5 as your downstops values?
What droop values do these numbers give you? 2mm of drrop seems to come up a bit but wouldn't it be different front and rear is using 6 and 5 as your downstops values?
- Emil
