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Xray T3 2012

Old 04-04-2012, 02:23 PM
  #2071  
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^^^^What Mike said!!!
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:09 AM
  #2072  
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Originally Posted by MikeR
Hi! The included blocks give you 3 degree rear toe (w/ 0deg hubs) and .5deg front arm sweep. Front and back width is about 170mm measured from hex end to hex end when using 5mm hex hubs.
That conversion is truly impressive. You are dead right about the binding between the arms and pins on power and braking with the standard Xray setup. I've always been very surprised Xray couldn't work that out themselves.

Why not split blocks for the FR?
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:41 AM
  #2073  
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I think i'm right is saying that the chassis is drilled to accept a split FR blocks, but the Exotek kit reflects the block set up that the X-Ray kit comes with.

You can buy a second set of split blocks seperately, plus an A block, an E block and the spacers - good price too!
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:42 AM
  #2074  
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Originally Posted by Pablo Diablo
That conversion is truly impressive. You are dead right about the binding between the arms and pins on power and braking with the standard Xray setup. I've always been very surprised Xray couldn't work that out themselves.

Why not split blocks for the FR?
The chassis will allow you to run splits in the FR too.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:43 AM
  #2075  
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Originally Posted by Chrissy C
I think i'm right is saying that the chassis is drilled to accept a split FR blocks, but the Exotek kit reflects the block set up that the X-Ray kit comes with.

You can buy a second set of split blocks seperately, plus an A block, an E block and the spacers - good price too!
You are correct.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:18 AM
  #2076  
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Mike/Fred - question about the roll center of the suspension mounts. Without any spacers under the blocks, how does the hingepin height compare to the Xray kit suspension mounts with the dot in the center? Do you have to add the 1mil spacers to have the same roll center?
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:35 AM
  #2077  
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Originally Posted by DOTMAN
Mike/Fred - question about the roll center of the suspension mounts. Without any spacers under the blocks, how does the hingepin height compare to the Xray kit suspension mounts with the dot in the center? Do you have to add the 1mil spacers to have the same roll center?
Without any spacers the blocks are the same height as the middle roll center blocks.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard
Without any spacers the blocks are the same height as the middle roll center blocks.
I'm not familiar with these style block since I've only ever run an xray, so my question is, how would you go about lowering the blocks if needed? Are there different height blocks?
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Stlfc
I'm not familiar with these style block since I've only ever run an xray, so my question is, how would you go about lowering the blocks if needed? Are there different height blocks?
They make 1pc shims that go under the blocks to raise them up.

On the Tamiya blocks, you can flip them over (like the F/R) and 3mm of shims would make them the same as flat when they're flipped the other way. Less than 3mm and you're going lower than flat. Not sure if Exotek works the same.
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:06 AM
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I'd like to pull the trigger on this but I can't see the benifits of the the blocks. I think I have more ajustability just by shimming the kit blocks as necessary. As far as the hinge pin friction, imo if you shim the pins properly that doesn't mean a thing.
However I think the chassis looks good.

I'd like to see Exotek come up with their version of the cantilevered servo mount.
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard
Without any spacers the blocks are the same height as the middle roll center blocks.
Thanks for the info Fred.

Cam Sunday?
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:13 AM
  #2082  
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hey there, i have some problem here, before this, my gear-diff runs smoothly, and no leaking case, but somehow after changing the oil, the oil leak out, i try change with new o-ring but the case still happen, any solution? do i need new gasket?
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:43 AM
  #2083  
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Originally Posted by Ariel Reds
hey there, i have some problem here, before this, my gear-diff runs smoothly, and no leaking case, but somehow after changing the oil, the oil leak out, i try change with new o-ring but the case still happen, any solution? do i need new gasket?
Most likely you have pinched the o-ring during the rebuild.
I don't replace the gaskets, just the o-ring.

Some have suggested that using a 2nd gasket and no ring or even one gasket without the o-ring might work.
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:50 AM
  #2084  
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Originally Posted by Ariel Reds
hey there, i have some problem here, before this, my gear-diff runs smoothly, and no leaking case, but somehow after changing the oil, the oil leak out, i try change with new o-ring but the case still happen, any solution? do i need new gasket?
You don't need to use the oring. I've run as light as 500cSt and didn't have any issues with leaks. The trick is being sure to not fill it any higher than the cross pin.
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:35 PM
  #2085  
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Default Xray gear diff

I agree that the O-ring is not needed.
What you should do is coat the mating faces of the diff cases with a thin smear of thick grease, add the gasket and screw up as normal.
I've built three this way with 700 cst oil, never a leak.
Also be sure not to over tighten the screws.
regards
Don
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