XXX-S RPM Ball cups, titanium turnbuckles, etc
05-30-2002, 02:04 PM
#1
XXX-S RPM Ball cups, titanium turnbuckles, etc
Sorry to post here but the form gets too hetic. I am looking to get some RPM ball cups from my XXX-S and some titanium turnbuckles. I need to know the following:
1) What are the stock numbers for both
2) what colors are available for the RPM Cups?
3) What are good ball studs to buy for the Cups to hook onto? (give stock number as well)
4) who should I order them through
5) what is the stock number for the BRP bumper?
6) how much better is the trinity red bumper and does it help stop the Spindle breakage?
1) What are the stock numbers for both
2) what colors are available for the RPM Cups?
3) What are good ball studs to buy for the Cups to hook onto? (give stock number as well)
4) who should I order them through
5) what is the stock number for the BRP bumper?
6) how much better is the trinity red bumper and does it help stop the Spindle breakage?
05-30-2002, 05:47 PM
#2
i dont know if this is what youre looking for but i saw some associated blue titanium turnbuckles
#1281, Blue Titanium Turnbuckle Kit, Losi XXX-S, $29.99
the price is about $ 26+ from towerhobbies, i might get a set since i have some blue parts on my losi to match them.
the stock no. for the BRP bumper is #6226 (from the brp website)
$ 8.95
#1281, Blue Titanium Turnbuckle Kit, Losi XXX-S, $29.99
the price is about $ 26+ from towerhobbies, i might get a set since i have some blue parts on my losi to match them.
the stock no. for the BRP bumper is #6226 (from the brp website)
$ 8.95
05-31-2002, 07:30 AM
#4
I have had good luck with the Associated ball cups that they use on their off-road truck. They are black in color asc7230 @ $5.00. I have used them on my TC3 when I had it and now on my XXX-S.
The RPM ones come in black (73392), Neon Blue (73395), Neon Yellow (73397), Purple (73398). These are the long shank rod ends for most Losi vehicles. There also is white (73381) which is dyeable but it does not appear to be specifically made for the Losi cars. Keep in mind with the long shank ones you may have to cut them down to get them to fit.
I don't think you could go wrong with either the Lunsford or the Associated turnbuckles. I used the ones that came with my FTTC3 and didn't have any problems. I put the Lunsford on my XXX-S and so far so good.
Sorry I don't have any experience on the bumper stuff. A lot of guys I race with still use the kit foam bumper without any problems.
The RPM ones come in black (73392), Neon Blue (73395), Neon Yellow (73397), Purple (73398). These are the long shank rod ends for most Losi vehicles. There also is white (73381) which is dyeable but it does not appear to be specifically made for the Losi cars. Keep in mind with the long shank ones you may have to cut them down to get them to fit.
I don't think you could go wrong with either the Lunsford or the Associated turnbuckles. I used the ones that came with my FTTC3 and didn't have any problems. I put the Lunsford on my XXX-S and so far so good.
Sorry I don't have any experience on the bumper stuff. A lot of guys I race with still use the kit foam bumper without any problems.
05-31-2002, 08:04 AM
#5
Originally posted by Kraig
I don't think you could go wrong with either the Lunsford or the Associated turnbuckles. I used the ones that came with my FTTC3 and didn't have any problems. I put the Lunsford on my XXX-S and so far so good.
I don't think you could go wrong with either the Lunsford or the Associated turnbuckles. I used the ones that came with my FTTC3 and didn't have any problems. I put the Lunsford on my XXX-S and so far so good.
05-31-2002, 03:03 PM
#7
Are the Aluminum C Hubs for the front any good? I am looking at a pair that is blue on Ebay to possibly purchase.
Also, I am having set screw trouble, its like the set screw in the C-Hub doesn't go far enough in and just spins there. Is there flashing inside that I need to remove and how should I do that?
Also, I am having set screw trouble, its like the set screw in the C-Hub doesn't go far enough in and just spins there. Is there flashing inside that I need to remove and how should I do that?
05-31-2002, 03:56 PM
#8
It is usually a bad idea to go aluminum in the suspension area of a car.
As a racer, I would much rather break a $4 part that I can notice right away, rather than bend a $15 part and not notice it for awhile, spending many heats/mains with the car all screwy and always wondering why.
As a racer, I would much rather break a $4 part that I can notice right away, rather than bend a $15 part and not notice it for awhile, spending many heats/mains with the car all screwy and always wondering why.
05-31-2002, 07:35 PM
#10
Shocks, battery brace, motor heat sink, motor mount, pivot blocks and supports are all good candidates on the XXX-S for aluminum. Steering knuckles too.
I would stick with graphite or composite on the rest of the car.
I would stick with graphite or composite on the rest of the car.
05-31-2002, 11:44 PM
#11
kraig: thanks i think i can get the TC3 ti t-buckles set locally, but i have to mail order for the XXX-S blue t-buckles. I might as well get the ones for the XXX-S to be sure they are the right length, plus i get to use the stock ballcups.
Cain: when i first assembled my XXX-S, i found a bit of flashing on the set screw holes in both the c-hubs and the rear knuckle. make sure to remove those first so the setscrew can go all the way to touch the hinge pin. to remove them, i used a tiny screwdriver that fits inside that hole. for a more sercure fit, i put flat spots (using a grinder or dremel) on the hinge pins so the setscrew can grip them better. even if the setscrew backs out a bit, the flat spot keeps the hinge pins in place.
i think i can get the TC3 ti t-buckles set locally, but i have to mail order for the XXX-S blue t-buckles. I might as well get the ones for the XXX-S to be sure they are the right length, plus i get to use the stock ballcups.Cain: when i first assembled my XXX-S, i found a bit of flashing on the set screw holes in both the c-hubs and the rear knuckle. make sure to remove those first so the setscrew can go all the way to touch the hinge pin. to remove them, i used a tiny screwdriver that fits inside that hole. for a more sercure fit, i put flat spots (using a grinder or dremel) on the hinge pins so the setscrew can grip them better. even if the setscrew backs out a bit, the flat spot keeps the hinge pins in place.
06-02-2002, 03:02 PM
#12
Well, I tried the flashing removal thing but it didn't work, so when I break I will just replace it. I have have it held in right now with some tape and later shoe goo so it should be ok. I check it regularly.
I am looking into getting a heatsink, any recommendations?
I am looking into getting a heatsink, any recommendations?
06-02-2002, 03:47 PM
#13
For ballcups, I just found a couple sets of Losi truck colored ballcups, and took a cut-off wheel to them to shorten them up. Blue, Red, bright yello, bright green are some of the colors i have seen in the losi truck ballcups. They are exactly the same as stock, just slightly longer for the tracks.. 3 seconds and a dremel cutoff wheel fixes that.
As far as the heatsink goes, Trinity and Dynamite both make a motor heatsink. I ran the XX-4 heatsink for a long time, but accully removed it after a motor guru talked to me.
As far as the heatsink goes, Trinity and Dynamite both make a motor heatsink. I ran the XX-4 heatsink for a long time, but accully removed it after a motor guru talked to me.
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