charl mac

Most std spur gear fit, you need spurs with two rows of 8 holes.

I think it is a great kit, 3weeks ago I race on high grip asphalt and felt I had a bit (like 5%) to much grip. but must tell you could still put in some great lap times. I have ordered the XI std upper deck think this will be a quick and easy way to stiffen the chassis slightly. We only really have one track that has very high grip, futher I would not worry about it.

charl mac

This is some good info given, I am also using gear diff upfront but with 500 000wt oil in mod but also track dependant. Something you can try to cure on power over steer and high speed under steer is to add some front droop. Also reduce acerman for the sweeper. Hope this helps

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

Diff? Been using Associated green slime lube on diff o-rings and using 2 shims on both the output shafts. I did trial and error for about an hour before figuring that 2 shims were the ticket. Make sure that there are no plastic burrs on any running surfaces. It's best to lap plastic mating sufaces with wet/dry ~500 grit using H2O. It seemed to take a couple runs to break in and become free running. No leaks so far.

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

First Sakura for me. I have a X-ray T3R, Serpent S411 TE and an Associated 6.1. I'm really digging the flexy engineering because our track is slickery. Flexy chassis/top plate and split hinge pin blocks is why I was interested in the DH and of course the color pink for saving the "Ta Tas".

Here are some points for consideration:

There is nothing to secure the pullies on the spur gear shaft. They are just pressed onto the hub and will find there way outwards to rub on the aluminum bulkheads. Other manufacturers use E clips to secure the pullies. I don't understand how this was overlooked being this problem exists on previous models. I used a couple small drops of ca to secure the pullies to the hub for now.

Shimming for side play of the spur gear shaft is no easy task. There is a new V2 motor mount that will allowing shimming a much easier task because it has separate bearing shaft holders.

The kit gearing is good for mod but taller gearing for stock or blinky class requires some additions. Using the included 85T 48P pinion and the vertical motor mount the largest pinion is somewhere in the 28T range. That puts the the tallest FDR around 6.0. A much smaller spur is required or the V2 motor mount assembly.

Shorter shocks that require a different spring length than most other popular sedans.

Very narrow front and rear tracks. Axles stick out way past the wheels. Much thicker wheel hex drives needed. Maybe 5 or 6mm not the 4mm supplied. You can shim the wheels out or cut the axles. Axles sticking out are problematic when rubbing track boards. It does allow for track width tuning. I don't shim wheels for mod, have had wheel hexes round off.

Front and rear bearing caps. Talking about inboard camber link ball ajustability. A flat head screw comes up from the bottom side of the cap. The screw rides in a slot and is held in position with a small plate on top of the bearing cap. There is no way to hold the flat head screw without removing the bearing cap. I understand that this gives finer adjustments. Just use a hex head screw captive in a slot so disassembly of the entire cap is not needed to make adjustments. Might be nit picking but I like to play with the adjustments. All other popular sedans are easy to adjust camber rod lengths and angles.

Will the Zero threaded bearing caps/bulkhead covers fit the DH???????

Just my early observations. Helpful comments welcome.

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

I've never had the lay shaft pully's move... In fact I replaced them a few months ago and they were super hard to get off.

The zero bulkhead covers won't fit, they are the same width and same is length, the holes are about 1.5mm further apart.

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

The pulley thing might depend on motor power level and track size. I'm running a 3.5T on a large outdoor track. They come loose every run.

Thanks for the bulkhead update. I almost wasted $$ and ordered them.

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

Ahh fair enough. I've only ever run boosted 17.5.

Groomie

iTrader: (6)

I'm running a DH
It has pretty much standard setup on it
3deg rear toe
.5 front out
2deg camber all round
The main problem I'm having now is the rear end will randomly step out on a quick direction change. Any ideas ?
Other than that I'm super impressed with the car highly recommend it
Ps the track I'm running is quite tight with a few bumps

Thanks

Groomie

iTrader: (6)

I'm running a DH
It has pretty much standard setup on it
3deg rear toe
.5 front out
2deg camber all round
Plus 4 shock towers and tamiya trf shocks 2.6 front and 2.4 rear springs
The main problem I'm having now is the rear end will randomly step out on a quick direction change. Any ideas ?
Other than that I'm super impressed with the car highly recommend it
Ps the track I'm running is quite tight with a few bumps

Thanks

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

just in case, are you sure you have installed the Universal Shaft Cushion on the rear diff?

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

I think you're talking about a lack of rear traction. I too have been fighting this lack of grip. First and most important are the tires. There's no adjustment to cure rear traction problems if your rear tires won't bite. Tire dope is also important.
Increase ground clearance, run inboard lower suspension roll pins as low as possible. Soften the rear. Stiffen the front. On the rear use short camber links and angle them upwards to the wheel hubs. This increases camber as the chassis rolls. Try more rear camber and less front. Use a high rear downforce body and move the wing back. Stiff bar upfront and soft or no rear bar. Harder front tires. Softer rear tires. Decrease front toe out. More expo on the steering.

Some might say do the opposite. I have seen it happen on other forums.

There are lotsa variables. Track, weather and driving styles are just a few.

It boils down to trial and error. What works for me might not for you.

Lots to try, good luck

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

What oil weight and piston holes are you running? My track is bumpy as well and I've found a lighter oil (30wt for me right now) and 3 hole pistons to be the go.

Mine can do that too, so I need to still fiddle around. On my current setup my car is the fastest its ever been, but there's 2 corners I still havent gotten right. One is a double left hander, on power. I cant surprise the car at all or it will step out (but not spin). The other is a sweeper we take at full speed. With my current setup the amount of steering I have can sometimes cause it to spin through it. But thats pretty rare.

I've only had a limited number of runs in its DH spec, and to add to that I also have changed to TRF shocks instead of the shorter 3Racing (although I had hybrid mini shocks on there) and with a hpi spring kit. So im still testing.

I also don't run any sway bars. I've found them to be a final touch type setup, and to get the car working without them first.

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

New XI ver2 motor mount arrived for me today, so much more room for pinions.

The largest I could fit (no modifications) on the kit motor mount was 60/37. The photo has 60/38 installed. I have bigger pinions on the way, but you can see how much more room there will be.



Only limitation will be the motor mount root, but a dremel will fix that if you need that big...

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

Robinson Super Machined 48P spurs fit for sure. It's available in a 85 tooth same as stock XI which is good for mod. HPI, Associated and others do not fit. The 8 hole bolt circle diameter for most is too small.

I'm racing on a large medium grip non prepped asphalt track. My Serpent S411TE is still a few tenths faster than my XI DH. I have copied the Serpent set up as close as possible for the Sakura but still a bit slower. Seems lacking corner speed.

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

That spur gear shaft holder is a way better design too.