Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

Anyone have any build tips, be sure and mention them, I saw the posts about the steering rack and flywheel, was someone(Motorman?) recommending to not use the O-ring in between the shock body and cap, just let the bladder seal... I will make some plastic recycler happy with all the empty plastic bags when I'm done... Lotta bags in there!

J_Longbrake

iTrader: (20)

What is a good starting point for the amount of end play with the new clutch set up?

NeRacer

with G4 new clutch weight, shoes and use Kyosho 4D long clutch spring with .3mm endplay, 0.6mm preload works great, feels like I am driving a mugen clutch again.

RayJ

Take some extra care with gluing the brake pads and measuring the proper brake shoe gap. Once I epoxied the brake pads on, I sanded them lightly till they were smooth and flat. I also deburred the brake disc hole that the 2 speed shaft passes through, and also the holes for the brake pulley puns. I also sanded the disc so that there were no high spots to cause the disc to grab or bind. You really don't want any binding here and you want that disc to be able to float smoothly on the shaft.

quietstorm76

iTrader: (12)

My car bogs excessively out of the corners. Thought it was engine but it's not. Clutch is engaging really early. using red spring and it still engages early. I love thecar but I can't be competitive.

RayJ

Keep turning the clutch spring down until the car launches the way you want it to. Try a full turn from where you are now. If it still bogs turn it down till it slips bad, and then back it off to where you want it. Then take the measurements of where you sre so you can set the clutch each time you dismantle it. I had an extra hard silver mugen spring in my box and put that on the clutch. I only have one thread showing from the clutch nut, but the car launches hard.

NeRacer

Try my sugguestion in early post, it works for all 3 of us. it launch the car like the mugen clutch.

1 little tips, is the length of the kyosho spring and the tension make that different.

Tommy Bergfeldt

Does anyone know the part number of the Long 4D Spring?

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

a mugen hard silver works great also and is easy to find. You can also use a serpent 1/8th scale spring. yes the red one is to soft.

Tommy Bergfeldt

Hmm, does Kyosho's spring they sent with the V1 RR 3D clutch work? I think i have one of those lying around..

Tommy Bergfeldt

Hmmm, the Kyosho spring that works great in the new clutch, is that FMW16, Clutch Spring H or FM432 4D clutch spring d1,9x1,5

Dreddlox

iTrader: (7)

Where does the Carbon chassis protector get mounted? I did not see any details for mounting it.

Thanks.

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

Even though the red spring may be a little soft for initial running before the flyweights bed in, it is still useful.

The red spring seems to be too soft before you get the clutch running well. I have found that sanding the flywheel, reaming out the three holes in the clutch pad and removing the three copper weights from the flyweights makes good use of the red spring.

I am able to adjust the clutch now through it's full range of adjustment from early to late engaging.

SCUBA STEVE

iTrader: (89)

Dreddlox, If I'm thinking of the correct part it is mounted flat on the chassis to the left of your throttle servo ...I guess to protect the receiver in a side impact...I used it in a different way to mount my receiver, I'm trying to post the pic but it says it's to big but I'll keep trying....anyways I hope that helps!

Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

Does anyone know the parts #'s for the 1st gear spur gears, or are the ones in the mongoose manual right? Is #502108 right for first gear or is there a different # for s class 1st gear spurs?... thanks, JEFF