Ta04r...
12-11-2002, 03:11 PM
#961
Tech Initiate
Hi guys...has anyone measured their cars for overall weight with full electrics, batteries, motor etc...
Im find my car is way heavier than most other cars...even tho I've got the Carbon Damper Stays and Carbon Lower deck on my TA04R.
Im find my car is way heavier than most other cars...even tho I've got the Carbon Damper Stays and Carbon Lower deck on my TA04R.
12-11-2002, 03:15 PM
#962
BuggZI
Are you running the stock diff outdrives? Those things weigh a ton! Tamiya has lightweight plastic outdrives that are much lighter. A set of 4 weighs less than one of the kit outdrives.
Are you running the stock diff outdrives? Those things weigh a ton! Tamiya has lightweight plastic outdrives that are much lighter. A set of 4 weighs less than one of the kit outdrives.
12-11-2002, 03:39 PM
#963
Tech Apprentice
do you guys have droop in the front? i have no droop in the front, only at the rear.
what spring setup are you guys running?
thanks
what spring setup are you guys running?
thanks
12-11-2002, 03:52 PM
#964
Yeah,
or if you want to experiment with mre flex, use 2 rubber o rings (shock) underneath the 2 screws which connect the top deck to the rear bulkhed.
Good luck.
Pizza
or if you want to experiment with mre flex, use 2 rubber o rings (shock) underneath the 2 screws which connect the top deck to the rear bulkhed.
Good luck.
Pizza
12-11-2002, 03:52 PM
#965
Tech Initiate
Pyscho...
Im running a front one-way...so no delrin there...but the rear diffs have the delrin outdrives...
I am however using 2400 Nicads...and an LRP v7.1 which might attribute to the extra weight...
The minimum weight where I race is 1400g..Im running 1640g...
does that sound right?
Im running a front one-way...so no delrin there...but the rear diffs have the delrin outdrives...
I am however using 2400 Nicads...and an LRP v7.1 which might attribute to the extra weight...
The minimum weight where I race is 1400g..Im running 1640g...
does that sound right?
12-11-2002, 03:56 PM
#966
Bugzzi,
Depends wheter the rest of your car is stock!
What chassis are you running?! a lot of weihgt to be gained heere.
Lightweight, or regular body?
for more weights, search in this thread for the weights which Steevo posted.
That should get you started!
Good luck
Depends wheter the rest of your car is stock!
What chassis are you running?! a lot of weihgt to be gained heere.
Lightweight, or regular body?
for more weights, search in this thread for the weights which Steevo posted.
That should get you started!
Good luck
12-11-2002, 04:03 PM
#967
Tech Initiate
Pizzadude..
Im actually using the carbon fibre lower deck...
I want to revert back to the original lightweight carbon reinforce lower deck but Im worried that it will add more wieght...
Any body have any overall weight measurements so that i can compare?
Im actually using the carbon fibre lower deck...
I want to revert back to the original lightweight carbon reinforce lower deck but Im worried that it will add more wieght...
Any body have any overall weight measurements so that i can compare?
12-11-2002, 04:09 PM
#968
Aty this time my car has for options the LW version F360, and the 52001 carbon sadlle pack chassis plates.
Rest is stock TA-04 Pro!!!
Total weight incl LRP V6, Tamiya Type T motor, Novak mercury and a Keil Fet Servo with Sanyo 3000HV.
Total weight 1512 grams.
Rest is stock TA-04 Pro!!!
Total weight incl LRP V6, Tamiya Type T motor, Novak mercury and a Keil Fet Servo with Sanyo 3000HV.
Total weight 1512 grams.
12-11-2002, 04:20 PM
#969
Tech Initiate
Nicads wouldn't weight 100g more than Nimhs would they??
12-11-2002, 04:33 PM
#970
nope
12-11-2002, 04:36 PM
#971
Tech Initiate
I think I need to play around with the car...work out what the extra weight is from...
Thanks for all your advice..PizzaDude and Pyscho...
Thanks for all your advice..PizzaDude and Pyscho...
12-11-2002, 05:17 PM
#972
Pizzadude,
About the orings, is it 2 orings per screw or 1 per screw?
About the orings, is it 2 orings per screw or 1 per screw?
12-11-2002, 05:42 PM
#973
Originally posted by jackhammer74
Hey imataquito if you notice that's why xray now offers an optional flexible upper deck. On the TA04R you can control the amount of chassis flex by using the two middle screws on the upper deck or omitting either one or both.
Hey imataquito if you notice that's why xray now offers an optional flexible upper deck. On the TA04R you can control the amount of chassis flex by using the two middle screws on the upper deck or omitting either one or both.
Steevo
12-11-2002, 05:45 PM
#974
sengming
The droop adjustments are the grub screws that go through each arm and touch the lower deck. You need to set your ride height before adjusting the droop. If you're raising the ride height with the droop already set, you'll need to back out the droop adjustments. If you are running any limiters on the shocks, you'll want to remove them. Since the car has droop adjustments there is no need for limiters in the shocks. The way that I adjust the droop on the car is as follows:
1. Set the ride height to whatever makes sense (keeping in mind that lower ride height = more mechanical grip, but less steering) I'd suggest starting with 5mm ride height all around. You'll need a ride height guage to measure this accurately, but the spurgears that come with the car are 5mm thick, so you can use that as a guide. Use the thumbscrew thingies on the threaded body shocks or preload spacers on non-threaded body shocks to set the ride height.
2. Put on a set of wheels or setup wheels and press both ends of the car down and let it return to the normal resting height.
3. With a screwdriver or x-acto knife blade, raise the frontend of the car up and measure the ride hight just before the front wheels lift off your workbench. The difference between this height and the ride height at rest is the amount of droop. For example, if you start off with a 5mm ride height and the wheels lift at 7mm, you have 2mm of droop.
4. Adjust the grub screws on each arm to add or reduce droop as needed and retest by raising the car up until the wheel lifts off and remeasure.
You need to make sure you have exactly the same amount of droop on both sides of each end of the car. I suggest starting off with 1mm droop up front and 2mm in back. You can add droop if you need more steering. I usually try to keep the same ratio between front and rear. If I go to 2mm droop up front, I'll go to 4mm in the back. Keep in mind that the car will be more rolly with more droop and less responsive on the twisties. I hope that helps.
The droop adjustments are the grub screws that go through each arm and touch the lower deck. You need to set your ride height before adjusting the droop. If you're raising the ride height with the droop already set, you'll need to back out the droop adjustments. If you are running any limiters on the shocks, you'll want to remove them. Since the car has droop adjustments there is no need for limiters in the shocks. The way that I adjust the droop on the car is as follows:
1. Set the ride height to whatever makes sense (keeping in mind that lower ride height = more mechanical grip, but less steering) I'd suggest starting with 5mm ride height all around. You'll need a ride height guage to measure this accurately, but the spurgears that come with the car are 5mm thick, so you can use that as a guide. Use the thumbscrew thingies on the threaded body shocks or preload spacers on non-threaded body shocks to set the ride height.
2. Put on a set of wheels or setup wheels and press both ends of the car down and let it return to the normal resting height.
3. With a screwdriver or x-acto knife blade, raise the frontend of the car up and measure the ride hight just before the front wheels lift off your workbench. The difference between this height and the ride height at rest is the amount of droop. For example, if you start off with a 5mm ride height and the wheels lift at 7mm, you have 2mm of droop.
4. Adjust the grub screws on each arm to add or reduce droop as needed and retest by raising the car up until the wheel lifts off and remeasure.
You need to make sure you have exactly the same amount of droop on both sides of each end of the car. I suggest starting off with 1mm droop up front and 2mm in back. You can add droop if you need more steering. I usually try to keep the same ratio between front and rear. If I go to 2mm droop up front, I'll go to 4mm in the back. Keep in mind that the car will be more rolly with more droop and less responsive on the twisties. I hope that helps.
12-11-2002, 11:45 PM
#975
Wilfred,
srew
washer
1x o-ring
topdeck
Pizza
srew
washer
1x o-ring
topdeck
Pizza