New Chassis Setup App - Have you tried it?
#63
#64
I certainly can understand why you would like a desktop version, but for now anyway, I will be sticking to the mobile device versions. Eventually there might be a desktop version.
Thank you
#65
Cheers, and have fun!
Martin.
#66
This is such a good idea! Exactly what I was looking for. I restarted racing a year ago and love to learn about the setup and this app will definitely help. Now I'll be able to progress anywhere I will be . Thanks Martin, I'm really excited to try it out
#67
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Martin,
I recently Purchased your Book after looking online for help with setup and it has been Soo Helpfull and I just purchased the App and i would have even if the price was $20 Very current. Love the support and possibility of Pan Car Stuff as that is what I race in the winter
Again Awesome info you are Da Man!
I recently Purchased your Book after looking online for help with setup and it has been Soo Helpfull and I just purchased the App and i would have even if the price was $20 Very current. Love the support and possibility of Pan Car Stuff as that is what I race in the winter
Again Awesome info you are Da Man!
#68
Martin,
I recently Purchased your Book after looking online for help with setup and it has been Soo Helpfull and I just purchased the App and i would have even if the price was $20 Very current. Love the support and possibility of Pan Car Stuff as that is what I race in the winter
Again Awesome info you are Da Man!
I recently Purchased your Book after looking online for help with setup and it has been Soo Helpfull and I just purchased the App and i would have even if the price was $20 Very current. Love the support and possibility of Pan Car Stuff as that is what I race in the winter
Again Awesome info you are Da Man!
#69
Building Shocks
I had one person send me a msg asking about how to build xray shocks with zero rebound...so I thought I would share my response...
The xray plastic shocks are difficult to build with zero rebound while at the same time preventing many air bubbles. The alloy shocks for some reason are much easier to build.
The shallow bladders are not very strong and tend to tear easily making it hard to build without air bubbles. The deeper bladders are stronger and easier to build without the bubbles, but the shock piston hits the bladder making it harder to get zero rebound.
I like to use the deeper bladder, only because they don't tear. When I build the shock I fill with oil and move the piston up and down slowly to get the air bubbles out like any shock. I leave the shock piston in the fully compressed position, and then insert the bladder into the shock slowly while displacing the oil. I make sure that I push down on the center of the bladder to displace the oil using my finger, allowing the bladder to keep its natural shape and be fully inserted into the shock. The deep bladder will hit the top of the shock piston and cause the piston to move out about 2mm or so, but that is ok. I then add the shock cap components and slowly tighten down the shock cap until it is nice and snug. During this process, I make sure that the shock piston does not move out from the shock (more than the 2mm mentioned above) , (i.e. it stays as fully compressed as it can). Keeping the shock piston fully compressed is the key to building a shock that does not extend back out after you push the shock shaft in. We typically call this a shock with no rebound, which is kind of funny, because in fact it has rebound in shock terminology because it is resisting the speed at which the shock shaft will extend when the spring expands.
I always build shocks so that the shaft does not come out on it's own, so that it can slow the spring down during the rebound stroke of the shock. If you build a shock where the shaft comes out on its own then your shock will not really resist the spring much if at all, which will cause the car to be bouncy and feel less smooth and ultimately have less grip.
Cheers
The xray plastic shocks are difficult to build with zero rebound while at the same time preventing many air bubbles. The alloy shocks for some reason are much easier to build.
The shallow bladders are not very strong and tend to tear easily making it hard to build without air bubbles. The deeper bladders are stronger and easier to build without the bubbles, but the shock piston hits the bladder making it harder to get zero rebound.
I like to use the deeper bladder, only because they don't tear. When I build the shock I fill with oil and move the piston up and down slowly to get the air bubbles out like any shock. I leave the shock piston in the fully compressed position, and then insert the bladder into the shock slowly while displacing the oil. I make sure that I push down on the center of the bladder to displace the oil using my finger, allowing the bladder to keep its natural shape and be fully inserted into the shock. The deep bladder will hit the top of the shock piston and cause the piston to move out about 2mm or so, but that is ok. I then add the shock cap components and slowly tighten down the shock cap until it is nice and snug. During this process, I make sure that the shock piston does not move out from the shock (more than the 2mm mentioned above) , (i.e. it stays as fully compressed as it can). Keeping the shock piston fully compressed is the key to building a shock that does not extend back out after you push the shock shaft in. We typically call this a shock with no rebound, which is kind of funny, because in fact it has rebound in shock terminology because it is resisting the speed at which the shock shaft will extend when the spring expands.
I always build shocks so that the shaft does not come out on it's own, so that it can slow the spring down during the rebound stroke of the shock. If you build a shock where the shaft comes out on its own then your shock will not really resist the spring much if at all, which will cause the car to be bouncy and feel less smooth and ultimately have less grip.
Cheers
#70
Hi Martin
Is there anyway I can save my fdr and rollout inputs so I dont have to re enter them every time I exit that section to look at other tips
Regards Groomie
Is there anyway I can save my fdr and rollout inputs so I dont have to re enter them every time I exit that section to look at other tips
Regards Groomie
#71
Just downloaded this on android.
I'm pretty good with setup changes already, but this is definitely going to be quicker to reference for a double check than my treasured xxx main printed version.
Most expensive app I've purchased, but it won't be getting uninstalled for quite some time either.
I'm pretty good with setup changes already, but this is definitely going to be quicker to reference for a double check than my treasured xxx main printed version.
Most expensive app I've purchased, but it won't be getting uninstalled for quite some time either.
#72
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
we may not have carpet plots, but it would be interesting to start getting feedback from drivers on different tires and which ones like more or less slip angle. For example I have found the sorex tires like a lot of slip angle, but the solaris tires do not like as much slip angle. Sweeps seem to be between the two tires. Jacos are similar to the solaris. But that is just from my personal testing...it would be interesting to hear from others.[/QUOTE]
In my experience...
Synthetic based foam tires: (Black, Grey, Yellow, White) are less direct, and have a higher slip angle than the rubber based type: (Lilac, Purple, Magenta, Pink)
Of course it's somewhat track dependent.
#74
Just downloaded this on android.
I'm pretty good with setup changes already, but this is definitely going to be quicker to reference for a double check than my treasured xxx main printed version.
Most expensive app I've purchased, but it won't be getting uninstalled for quite some time either.
I'm pretty good with setup changes already, but this is definitely going to be quicker to reference for a double check than my treasured xxx main printed version.
Most expensive app I've purchased, but it won't be getting uninstalled for quite some time either.
we may not have carpet plots, but it would be interesting to start getting feedback from drivers on different tires and which ones like more or less slip angle. For example I have found the sorex tires like a lot of slip angle, but the solaris tires do not like as much slip angle. Sweeps seem to be between the two tires. Jacos are similar to the solaris. But that is just from my personal testing...it would be interesting to hear from others.
Synthetic based foam tires: (Black, Grey, Yellow, White) are less direct, and have a higher slip angle than the rubber based type: (Lilac, Purple, Magenta, Pink)
Of course it's somewhat track dependent.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for taking me up on my ask to get input from other drivers on slip angle experience on a per tire basis! This is great! Tks.
Welcome!
Happy to answer any questions on setups as well. i check the thread every couple of days.