Tamiya Evo IV or TRF415
10-15-2004, 05:39 AM
#16
Does the E4 suffer from the frequent gear stripping that the E3 has?
If you find yourself challenging your tracks barrier constantly, I'd recommend a belt drive.
I use to drive the Evo1 and Evo2 and had to give up on both because I keep on ruining the bevel gears with my novice driving. I wish tamiya will sell a ring AND bevel gear combo like Yok does. I think the bevel gear is the main weakness of the shaft driven cars. If you drive well enough to avoid crashes the go with the shaft drive.
I don't have money for either car
If you find yourself challenging your tracks barrier constantly, I'd recommend a belt drive.
I use to drive the Evo1 and Evo2 and had to give up on both because I keep on ruining the bevel gears with my novice driving. I wish tamiya will sell a ring AND bevel gear combo like Yok does. I think the bevel gear is the main weakness of the shaft driven cars. If you drive well enough to avoid crashes the go with the shaft drive.
I don't have money for either car
10-15-2004, 06:18 AM
#17
Originally posted by rough512
Does the E4 suffer from the frequent gear stripping that the E3 has?
If you find yourself challenging your tracks barrier constantly, I'd recommend a belt drive.
I use to drive the Evo1 and Evo2 and had to give up on both because I keep on ruining the bevel gears with my novice driving. I wish tamiya will sell a ring AND bevel gear combo like Yok does. I think the bevel gear is the main weakness of the shaft driven cars. If you drive well enough to avoid crashes the go with the shaft drive.
I don't have money for either car
Does the E4 suffer from the frequent gear stripping that the E3 has?
If you find yourself challenging your tracks barrier constantly, I'd recommend a belt drive.
I use to drive the Evo1 and Evo2 and had to give up on both because I keep on ruining the bevel gears with my novice driving. I wish tamiya will sell a ring AND bevel gear combo like Yok does. I think the bevel gear is the main weakness of the shaft driven cars. If you drive well enough to avoid crashes the go with the shaft drive.
I don't have money for either car
However, we use a) a metal ring gear on the oneway in the outdoor car and b) an EVO 3 diff with l/w outdrives front and rear in the indoor one.The only thing that strips is the rotten plastic shaft cups
Also, is anyone seriously going to tell me that they rely on that floppy P.O.S. battery bar? It really is the worst piece of rubbish I've ever known on what is supposed to be a professional car
10-15-2004, 07:13 AM
#18
the trf 415 + suspension kit is in vienna very high at price.. 
10-15-2004, 08:38 AM
#19
Originally posted by EVOtech
No stripping (yet) However, we use a) a metal ring gear on the oneway in the outdoor car and b) an EVO 3 diff with l/w outdrives front and rear in the indoor one.
The only thing that strips is the rotten plastic shaft cups
Also, is anyone seriously going to tell me that they rely on that floppy P.O.S. battery bar? It really is the worst piece of rubbish I've ever known on what is supposed to be a professional car
No stripping (yet)
However, we use a) a metal ring gear on the oneway in the outdoor car and b) an EVO 3 diff with l/w outdrives front and rear in the indoor one.The only thing that strips is the rotten plastic shaft cups
Also, is anyone seriously going to tell me that they rely on that floppy P.O.S. battery bar? It really is the worst piece of rubbish I've ever known on what is supposed to be a professional car
10-15-2004, 09:51 AM
#20
Guys, I hope you realize that all of you will go to hell for helping thedevil.
10-15-2004, 09:53 AM
#21
EVO IV v.s. 415
Hi,
I have been testing both trying to make a decision on which one to take to the worlds. The good and bad news is that it is a difficult decision as both have their strengths.
I think on small tracks the 415 has the edge and on large tracks the evo 4 has the edge. To be honest the differences is very small.
The 415 seems to be a little smoother when transitioning from off power to power than the evo 4. When you get on the power hard coming out of a corner the evo 4 tends to have more agressive steering, making the transition feel a little less smooth. The EVO 4 does have better acceleration, top speed and run time due to it's drivetrain being so free. These impressions I have, seem to be consistent with Satoshi's metrics above. i.e. he was more consistent with the 415 and had the fastest lap time with the evo 4.
BTW - I have been able to dramatically reduce the EVO 4 on-power transition issue that I described above by focusing on reducing the play in the rear suspension/uprights/bearings etc. I think the play in the rear end was dramatically reducing the rear toe-in on power thus causing the snap oversteer on acceleration. To reduce the play I did the following.
* made sure the hinge pin's had anti-wear on them
* shimmed the upright on the hinge pin
* used a set screw in the provided hole in the upright - be careful not to tighten too much as this will bind the suspension due to the new design of the hinge pin.
* I used tamiya threadlock to in the upright to seat the bearings. I found the bearings moved around a little within the upright.
- I tested this last night and saw a dramtic improvement.
I have been testing both trying to make a decision on which one to take to the worlds. The good and bad news is that it is a difficult decision as both have their strengths.
I think on small tracks the 415 has the edge and on large tracks the evo 4 has the edge. To be honest the differences is very small.
The 415 seems to be a little smoother when transitioning from off power to power than the evo 4. When you get on the power hard coming out of a corner the evo 4 tends to have more agressive steering, making the transition feel a little less smooth. The EVO 4 does have better acceleration, top speed and run time due to it's drivetrain being so free. These impressions I have, seem to be consistent with Satoshi's metrics above. i.e. he was more consistent with the 415 and had the fastest lap time with the evo 4.
BTW - I have been able to dramatically reduce the EVO 4 on-power transition issue that I described above by focusing on reducing the play in the rear suspension/uprights/bearings etc. I think the play in the rear end was dramatically reducing the rear toe-in on power thus causing the snap oversteer on acceleration. To reduce the play I did the following.
* made sure the hinge pin's had anti-wear on them
* shimmed the upright on the hinge pin
* used a set screw in the provided hole in the upright - be careful not to tighten too much as this will bind the suspension due to the new design of the hinge pin.
* I used tamiya threadlock to in the upright to seat the bearings. I found the bearings moved around a little within the upright.
- I tested this last night and saw a dramtic improvement.
10-15-2004, 05:25 PM
#22
Originally posted by SpeedTech
TheDevil,
Like many have said, both cars are very good. One thing to keep in mind is that the designers of the cars made these cars to work on different tracks. So it's not really about which one is better than the other, but more of what is more suitable for your particular track that you plan to race on
Steve Wang
TheDevil,
Like many have said, both cars are very good. One thing to keep in mind is that the designers of the cars made these cars to work on different tracks. So it's not really about which one is better than the other, but more of what is more suitable for your particular track that you plan to race on
Steve Wang
The EVO 4 was ment for long flowing tracks.
10-15-2004, 06:19 PM
#23
Tech Adept
Looks like Tamiya is gonna release "another" car...the $415MS.
10-15-2004, 06:27 PM
#24
Yes, that's right.. the 415MS was shown at Tokyo Hobby Show not long ago
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