Pete G

iTrader: (25)

ALG yes it came with the spiral gears and silver springs for the bb shocks ,I know ofna had a couple kits out like generation 1 which came with bb shocks with blue springs and no spiral cut gears the 2 one was with all the new stuff.I had order one through my LHS and that 1st one came in and we sent it back. Then went to TILTEDRC talked to Homer and he got me one directly from Ofna and it was the new kit SUCKS a company would do that just to get ride of the old kits call them see what they say plus the used the same part # also

ALG

I must got the gen3 kit, because I have the BB with silver springs but NOT spiral cut
I will send some pictures to OFNA and see what we can do...

yes the problem comes when they use the SAME part #.....

have fun with your Jammin,

DR ZAIRUS

Ok guys!! Lets see if you can give me a hand!!

I'm racing at a medium size, tecnical, a bit rutted track. I wanted to give my X1 CR a bit more spark, so I changed to a more agresive diff configuration, just to try: from 5-7-2 to 7-10-3.

The car reacts much faster to throttle and handles well, except for exiting curves. I had to be very progressive with the throttle 'till the car was straightened out, because if I accelerated bruskly when still finishing the turn, the car's rear would get out of control.

My question is: is this simply due to the more agressive diff setting and I just need to be softer on the gas (maybe move the exponential up/down on the transmiter??) or is there some adjustment I can make to improve the cars handling (harder rear springs / more vertical shocks??). At the moment I'm using 13mm shocks with blue mugen springs and 50/40 oil....

Also, I have thoght of changin from 13T bell to 14T, to have a more progressive acceleration, but maybe the top speed would be too much, since the starights are only 50-60 feet long....

Please give me your ideas!!!

Genius

I think what I would do in your case is soften the center diff to maybe 7K and then move the rear hubs forward to give you a shorter wheelbase. Should give you similar handling and make the car more planted under acceleration. I think your shock springs might be on the stiff side. Id stick with the 13 tooth clutch bell. just my opinion and personal preference, I find it hard to be consistent if I'm babying the throttle to keep the car from fishtailing.

cheesecake

iTrader: (27)

try 7-7-3 and stick with the 13 tooth that should help out some

DR ZAIRUS

Thanks guys!!

I'll keep the 13T, since the motor doesn't stress top RPM with such short straights.

About 7-7-3. I know it would make the car easier to drive, but it would loose a bit of punch, so I'll keep 7-10-3 for now, and play arround with the setup. I can always change to 7-7-3.

I was also thinking of changing the steering links all the way back on the Ackerman bar. Acording to OFNA it makes the car steer more agresively entering the curve, but softer at the exit.

Also maybe light grey mugen springs in the rear (slightly stiffer) and/or lighter oil in the front, to make it 45/40

A softer rear anti roll bar or a bit more camber / shorter camber links in the rear (I've already got 3'5º toe in)....

What do you think of these different options??

Jerseyboy

I treid these combos. 7-7-3 is excellent and muy choice for most conditions.
7-10-3 is good but it doesnt rotate well in the corners on a tight track. You find your turning is not as tight as before.

Hope it helps

rallyebmx

iTrader: (21)

Hey Jerseyboy, weren't you struggling with your 16mm shock set up? What set up did you finally settle down with?

Jerseyboy

Ok for me the new BB shocks did not improve jumping. You basically get gains on the straights as you can carry a higher overall speed as the car is better through the rough. I have settled with Chad Bradleys setup. I use silver springs front and rear with 40wt front and 35wt rear.
Its soft and bottoms out. All I did was make the ride hight slightly above level for both.

cheesecake

iTrader: (27)

i run the white springs with the 16mm shocks i couldnt get the buggy to turn with the silvers i run 45 in the front and 35 in the rear

cheesecake

iTrader: (27)

also are you running the pbs setup still i couldnt get it any better with the 16mm shocks so if your running the pbs i reccomend going back to the 13mm or getting rid of the pbs

rallyebmx

iTrader: (21)

Did you stay with the 1.4 piston holes?

MikeInCtown

iTrader: (7)

There's been talk of the new X2 coming out and I was wondering if the 16mm shock may carry over there? I don't have a lot of extra 13mm parts for repairs and upgrading would make sense if I could remove them from a worn out X1 and use them on a new X2 if and when I upgrade to the new buggy. Otherwise I would be spending a few hundred on parts that would be obsolete in a few months.

ALG

I have notice that the BB 16mm like to be on the soft side. Im using Losi 35 front and Losi 32.5 rear. SILVER SPRINGS, when Im using heavier oil on dampers, the car seems to loose traction and the tires looses contact with the gound.

Regarding Dr Zarius, I would recomend to stay with the 3.0º raer toe and lower the diff oil to 1000, the problem is on a particular turn of the track or is on all slow turns?

tilting your rear shock is also a mod you can try, what is your raer camber setting?

REMEMBER, one mod at a time

Have fun

pink_sleeve

iTrader: (220)

anyone know where to get the correct X1X-CR kit's from with all the updates