Jammin X1 - so close yet so far
#3241
I normally fill my BB shocks with the piston at the bottom of the shock. After letting it stand for release of air I fill to about almost full. 1/2 mm under top.
When I screw the cap on I ensure the bladder is out, when I turn the cap the I do it slowly so the air escapes through the CAP hole. After tightening the cap I depress the shafts and they rebound to about halfway without springs.
This seems to work for me.
When I screw the cap on I ensure the bladder is out, when I turn the cap the I do it slowly so the air escapes through the CAP hole. After tightening the cap I depress the shafts and they rebound to about halfway without springs.
This seems to work for me.
#3242
Tech Regular
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#3244
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Shock set ups
Ok i am trying something different and i'll explain why shortly.
This time i filled the shocks and bled all the air out.
When i put the cap on i pushed the piston right to the top but still under the oil so no air gets in again.
I then put the cap on while holding the bottom of the shock on the table so as to keep the piston right at the top.
I now have only about 1/5th of the shock pre-load rebound.
My aim is to to to take out as much "Pre-Load" as possible and here is why.
If you have pre-load then it gives extra spring to the shock.
That then gives you a false reading of how much the springs will bounce the car back up.
In other words it makes your shocks more springy than they would be with no oil in them and just working on the springs.
My theory is to let the spring do the springing and the oil is to just dampen the shock to control the speed of the piston travelling.
With the springs i am gong to try something different also.
The yellow springs are softer than the red and when you lay your shocks down it makes the shocks more progressive.
I am going to go to yellow springs and lay the shocks to the outside holes on the bottoms.
I am running 40wt front and 30 wt rear Losi Oil also as our track is pretty bumpy at the moment.
When you lay your shock down your car also becomes more stable in high speed corners.
I just hope it works
Give me your thoughts on this set up please.
This time i filled the shocks and bled all the air out.
When i put the cap on i pushed the piston right to the top but still under the oil so no air gets in again.
I then put the cap on while holding the bottom of the shock on the table so as to keep the piston right at the top.
I now have only about 1/5th of the shock pre-load rebound.
My aim is to to to take out as much "Pre-Load" as possible and here is why.
If you have pre-load then it gives extra spring to the shock.
That then gives you a false reading of how much the springs will bounce the car back up.
In other words it makes your shocks more springy than they would be with no oil in them and just working on the springs.
My theory is to let the spring do the springing and the oil is to just dampen the shock to control the speed of the piston travelling.
With the springs i am gong to try something different also.
The yellow springs are softer than the red and when you lay your shocks down it makes the shocks more progressive.
I am going to go to yellow springs and lay the shocks to the outside holes on the bottoms.
I am running 40wt front and 30 wt rear Losi Oil also as our track is pretty bumpy at the moment.
When you lay your shock down your car also becomes more stable in high speed corners.
I just hope it works
Give me your thoughts on this set up please.
#3245
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
but when you lay your shocks down more on a bumpy track you get less damping action. high speed stability does not matter on a track that is bumpy all over. you want your shocks to absorb every bump in your path, not skip over them as they will when they are more horizontal. i suggest making your shocks more verticle to absorb the bumps.
#3249
Tech Regular
X1CR PRO
JP MOD V-SPEC
JR SERVOS 9000S/T
JP-3
JCONCEPTS BODY & WING
M2 BOWTIES
M3 HOLESHOTS
JP MOD V-SPEC
JR SERVOS 9000S/T
JP-3
JCONCEPTS BODY & WING
M2 BOWTIES
M3 HOLESHOTS
#3250
Tech Regular
NEXT UPGRADES
BB SHOCKS
UPGRADE RC DECAL SET (JConcepts Body)
5MM TOWERS
BB SHOCKS
UPGRADE RC DECAL SET (JConcepts Body)
5MM TOWERS
#3253
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
but when you lay your shocks down more on a bumpy track you get less damping action. high speed stability does not matter on a track that is bumpy all over. you want your shocks to absorb every bump in your path, not skip over them as they will when they are more horizontal. i suggest making your shocks more verticle to absorb the bumps.
Well i will give it a go anyway.
One of the guys at our club ran the back shocks layed down and he blitzed everyone.
He is one of the top drivers in Australia though as he just came 2nd at the Nationals (drives a Hong Nor X1-CR FTE of course).
#3254
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
but when you lay your shocks down more on a bumpy track you get less damping action. high speed stability does not matter on a track that is bumpy all over. you want your shocks to absorb every bump in your path, not skip over them as they will when they are more horizontal. i suggest making your shocks more verticle to absorb the bumps.
if the shock is more stood up, doesn't it mean that the force required to move the arm up (ie compress the shock) is a higher rate than if the shock was layed down?
a layed down shock allows for a softer shock action, and subsequently the shock absorbs smaller bumps is this correct?
#3255
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
i'm sorry to say but that's not right. less force is required to compress the shock when it is more verticle because all the force is being applied in the direction in which the shock is lined up. essentially, when the shock is more horizontal, the upward force which is not parallel to the shock shaft, has to push even harder to compress the shock. the bump is trying to push the shock straight up, but the shock wants the bump to exert its force parallel to the shock shaft.
think of it this way. lets say you have a small train car that is very light (light enough for you to push). would it be easier to push the train car straight from behind it, in the direction of the tracks? or would it be easier to push the train car from the corner, exerting your force to the opposite corner of the train car (not in line with the tracks)?
it would be easier to push in line with the tracks, from behind. this is the same way the shocks would operate on a bumpy track.
does this make sense? i've used a lot of Physics jargon, but i hope you can understand. you have to remember that TC suspension is different from off-road suspension action. you have much higher lateral forces on a TC than you do on a 1/8 buggy, and you have much higher vertical forces on a buggy than on a TC.
think of it this way. lets say you have a small train car that is very light (light enough for you to push). would it be easier to push the train car straight from behind it, in the direction of the tracks? or would it be easier to push the train car from the corner, exerting your force to the opposite corner of the train car (not in line with the tracks)?
it would be easier to push in line with the tracks, from behind. this is the same way the shocks would operate on a bumpy track.
does this make sense? i've used a lot of Physics jargon, but i hope you can understand. you have to remember that TC suspension is different from off-road suspension action. you have much higher lateral forces on a TC than you do on a 1/8 buggy, and you have much higher vertical forces on a buggy than on a TC.