Jammin X1 - so close yet so far
#2311
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
hey dazyz, did you ever look at my race results with the new setup? what do you think?
i believe i am using the gold springs, which are 1.1mm. they're not going to be different from the Mugen springs are they? and what's the difference between the blue shoes, the purple shoes, and the silver clutch shoes? do they weight different?
well guys, i have good race news to report on my front with the home-grown setup. the track was in perfect shape, perfectly smooth (that's how the owner likes it), hard packed and wet, very tacky with lots'o'traction. out of 17 heat races, i won 8 (that's just how we race). after i got my engine issues sorted out (very humid) i started to really push the buggy to see what it would do. i started off with crime fighters all around, but they switched to some mini-pins all around to see what happened. i noticed a little loss of lateral grip, so i put the crime fighters in the rear and that solved my problem.
Ya.... carbon shoes wear on the cb much nicer Maybe just try the 1.1 Mugen springs than
#2312
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
hey dazyz, did you ever look at my race results with the new setup? what do you think?
i believe i am using the gold springs, which are 1.1mm. they're not going to be different from the Mugen springs are they? and what's the difference between the blue shoes, the purple shoes, and the silver clutch shoes? do they weight different?
i believe i am using the gold springs, which are 1.1mm. they're not going to be different from the Mugen springs are they? and what's the difference between the blue shoes, the purple shoes, and the silver clutch shoes? do they weight different?
Blue are the lightest one ... they kick fast and on low RPM and the wear rate its a little high, the purples are medium weight medium wear and the silver ones are very hard and light, great for long mains and with little wear rate ...
#2314
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
hey dazyz, did you ever look at my race results with the new setup? what do you think?
i believe i am using the gold springs, which are 1.1mm. they're not going to be different from the Mugen springs are they? and what's the difference between the blue shoes, the purple shoes, and the silver clutch shoes? do they weight different?
i believe i am using the gold springs, which are 1.1mm. they're not going to be different from the Mugen springs are they? and what's the difference between the blue shoes, the purple shoes, and the silver clutch shoes? do they weight different?
#2316
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
i know this sounds like kind of a mindless question to ask, but should i upgrade to the Big Bore shocks? i still have the original shocks and they seem to work fine for me. and considering i have bought a bunch of spare parts for my buggy (including various stock shock parts), and have bought a set of hard springs AND TKO dual stage pistons for the shocks, i don't want to leave NIB parts rotting in my pit box. however, the original shocks are a pain in the a$$ to rebuild, and my 777 still has crappy RTR shocks, so i could always use the original shocks on my 777 and put the new big bores on my Jammin (which is my racing buggy). the reason why i am saying this is because i have some $$$ to burn and still feel like my ride can be upgraded further. here is a list of what i have already:
-All "Pro" kit(not FT) hop-ups
-billet upper and lower B blocks
-light weight front and rear diff outdrives
-CNC differential pins (not necessary )
-King Headz front upper brace
-craddock brake disks
-aluminum wing support posts
-TKO dual stage shock pistons
-Ofna white hard springs
I have been thinking about getting some of these things but don't know if they're necessary:
-5mm front/rear shock towers
-aluminum radio tray posts
-light weight center diff outdrives
-captured hinge pins
-one piece engine mount
-big bore shocks
-aluminum rear hub carriers
and i am not trying to show off or anything here, i just want some honest opinions. i generally don't make the wisest decisions when upgrading my rides, so i want some fellow racers opinions. what can i buy to make my racing buggy more durable, efficient, light weight, etc?
-All "Pro" kit(not FT) hop-ups
-billet upper and lower B blocks
-light weight front and rear diff outdrives
-CNC differential pins (not necessary )
-King Headz front upper brace
-craddock brake disks
-aluminum wing support posts
-TKO dual stage shock pistons
-Ofna white hard springs
I have been thinking about getting some of these things but don't know if they're necessary:
-5mm front/rear shock towers
-aluminum radio tray posts
-light weight center diff outdrives
-captured hinge pins
-one piece engine mount
-big bore shocks
-aluminum rear hub carriers
and i am not trying to show off or anything here, i just want some honest opinions. i generally don't make the wisest decisions when upgrading my rides, so i want some fellow racers opinions. what can i buy to make my racing buggy more durable, efficient, light weight, etc?
#2317
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
The "BIG BORE" shocks are the best on the market!
I upgraded and noticed a big difference in the ruff sections of the track.
Best $100 I spent on the original CR Pro buggy!
The stock CR shock towers I think actually worked better than the FTE shock towers other than the FTE towers being 1mm thicker. I would say purchase a one-piece engine mount before the FTE shock towers. And for the one piece engine mount I would look at the King Headz mount. It allows you to remove the engine without messing up the pinion gear mesh, unlike the one-piece ofna crap mount, and the King Headz is the same price from A-main hobbies at $45!
I upgraded and noticed a big difference in the ruff sections of the track.
Best $100 I spent on the original CR Pro buggy!
The stock CR shock towers I think actually worked better than the FTE shock towers other than the FTE towers being 1mm thicker. I would say purchase a one-piece engine mount before the FTE shock towers. And for the one piece engine mount I would look at the King Headz mount. It allows you to remove the engine without messing up the pinion gear mesh, unlike the one-piece ofna crap mount, and the King Headz is the same price from A-main hobbies at $45!
#2318
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by GeneralG
The "BIG BORE" shocks are the best on the market!
I upgraded and noticed a big difference in the ruff sections of the track.
Best $100 I spent on the original CR Pro buggy!
The stock CR shock towers I think actually worked better than the FTE shock towers other than the FTE towers being 1mm thicker. I would say purchase a one-piece engine mount before the FTE shock towers. And for the one piece engine mount I would look at the King Headz mount. It allows you to remove the engine without messing up the pinion gear mesh, unlike the one-piece ofna crap mount, and the King Headz is the same price from A-main hobbies at $45!
I upgraded and noticed a big difference in the ruff sections of the track.
Best $100 I spent on the original CR Pro buggy!
The stock CR shock towers I think actually worked better than the FTE shock towers other than the FTE towers being 1mm thicker. I would say purchase a one-piece engine mount before the FTE shock towers. And for the one piece engine mount I would look at the King Headz mount. It allows you to remove the engine without messing up the pinion gear mesh, unlike the one-piece ofna crap mount, and the King Headz is the same price from A-main hobbies at $45!
I dont undertand that thing about engine mounts, i take off my engine for cleaning every weekend and NEVER messed up with the gear mesh, i just use a 2.5mm ball hex driver and take off the engine screws, not the mount under-chassis screws ...
#2319
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
And for the one piece engine mount I would look at the King Headz mount. It allows you to remove the engine without messing up the pinion gear mesh, unlike the one-piece ofna crap mount, and the King Headz is the same price from A-main hobbies at $45!
-5mm front/rear shock towers
-aluminum radio tray posts
-light weight center diff outdrives
-captured hinge pins
-one piece engine mount
-big bore shocks
-aluminum rear hub carriers
#2320
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by Tabushi
I dont undertand that thing about engine mounts, i take off my engine for cleaning every weekend and NEVER messed up with the gear mesh, i just use a 2.5mm ball hex driver and take off the engine screws, not the mount under-chassis screws ...
#2321
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002
if i were to get a new engine mount i would definately get the KHZ assembly. it's really an ingenius idea they had. what about the other things on my list, are they not necessary other than the Big Bore shocks?
-5mm front/rear shock towers
-aluminum radio tray posts
-light weight center diff outdrives
-captured hinge pins
-one piece engine mount
-big bore shocks
-aluminum rear hub carriers
-5mm front/rear shock towers
-aluminum radio tray posts
-light weight center diff outdrives
-captured hinge pins
-one piece engine mount
-big bore shocks
-aluminum rear hub carriers
#2323
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
and yes, the big bore is a must for racing 7 especially on rough track.
#2324
Tech Initiate
X1-CR and X!-CRT parts
Guys,
Where can I find a comprehensive list of parts that can be inter-chageable between X-CR and X1-CRT?
Perhaps all can help to list it down here?
Thanks.
Where can I find a comprehensive list of parts that can be inter-chageable between X-CR and X1-CRT?
Perhaps all can help to list it down here?
Thanks.
#2325
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by entaro
Guys,
Where can I find a comprehensive list of parts that can be inter-chageable between X-CR and X1-CRT?
Perhaps all can help to list it down here?
Thanks.
Where can I find a comprehensive list of parts that can be inter-chageable between X-CR and X1-CRT?
Perhaps all can help to list it down here?
Thanks.
from there, look at yer left, click the Jammin CRT. compare from there.