~McSmooth~

Anyone find a solution for the arm extensions moving (step A2 in the manual)?

With just the 2 screws for mounting, with any contact, these extensions have enough play to "angle" backwards during a race. This will throw off your toe, trim, and steering.

The temporary solution is to angle them back as far as they can go in assembly, so that they can't move back any further during a race. Set all your toe, trim, etc. with the extensions in that "back" position.

A third point of contact is needed with 3 screws (L-shaped extension), or a pin/boss that locks into the carbon piece.

ErikJan

A simple solution is to use as maximum the 2mm extensions (1mm is even better), and add extra shimms under the steering block, or raise the complete under arms. You also have to adjust the length of the steering pin to retain the right spring tension.
I know Serpent is aware of this and works on a solution.

rack

iTrader: (68)

I took my serpent out for the first time yesterday. I was surprise how easy it was to setup. this is the best F1 I ever drove.

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

what body and tires did you use?

rack

iTrader: (68)

The body Tamiya Set Vodafone McLaren - Mercedes MP4-24 and the tires Shimizu Racing PS-0572 rears and Shimizu Racing PS-0571 fronts

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

thanks ordering my in the am. also will a 1/12 scale servo work in it?

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

No. Not without modification. A standard size is what you need and you'll need to trim off the bottom mounting lug as per the manual. No dramas as you can pickup a replacement case for most servos if you want to use it in another car in the future. You don't need a super dooper servo in the F110 anyway - I just use a low profile sanwa servo in mine.

DIRTMONKEY

A low profile servo is the best option, for weight and that little bit of extra room on chassis. Just a hint when doing the servo put double sided tape on the bottom face of the servo ( where the lugs have been removed ) doing this eliminates the movement of the servo, when the steering is put under stress, say hard turning the servo moves at the base.

After just finishing our on road and F1 national titles the most important part of this car is TYRES, we had to choose our own compounds for the meeting and only two sets where to be put up for marking, so thinking the temps would be around and above the 24 deg C mark I choose RIDE R1's as my compound, FAIL, the temps for the first three days didn't get above 19 deg C and spot rain falls. I was chasing set up for this, trying every spring combo I had and setup trick to compansate with little reward, 12 laps was my best right up until finals.
The temps for sundays heat and semis where even colder, but just before the finals the temps suddenly jumped to 26 deg C, just this change in temp alone in the A 1 final gained me 2 laps extra to 14. In the end with the new found grip and changes to basic set up of soft front RIDE springs and soft TAMIYA rear spring I placed equal 3rd and after count back on times was placed 4th by mere seconds.
This was a big learning curve for me and at the end of it all I have learnt so much more, a big plus in this F1 game.

AKRacing

I just raced at a club meet with around 20 entries in F1. Completely agree about tyres being the biggest tuning option! The day was really warm and Ride R1's were hooking up extremely well, I could use full throttle earlier than most out of the corners and the car was planted. I'm using the default asphalt setup and couldn't be happier!

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

Where do you guys get springs? I thought the kit would come with all extra springs but it didn't.. And I can't seem to find the optional springs anywhere.

Zedsispeho

Most side springs used in 1/12 and F1 are compatible. I use CRC ones.

however if you want to buy the real thing, you may get them here:
http://www.the-border.com/Serpent-F110-Formula/

DIRTMONKEY

I get mine from walter rc here in australia

from this page on are the parts you require

http://www.walterrchobby.com.au/inde...l?limit=30&p=8

Also here

http://www.rcmart.com/serpent-serpen..._534_1627.html

And here for all distributors world wide

serpent.com/company/distributors/

I also use the front RIDE spring kit

http://www.rcmart.com/ride-28005-fro...g-p-32128.html

Cheers
Will

DIRTMONKEY

Well SERPENT have finially brought out their body for the F110.

http://serpent.com/product/170327/

Now I'm not a fan already but for those who like the old sckool it would be perfect, it runs along the lines of the 3Racing F113 just by the looks of it.

I would prefer one along the lines of the SP F-68 probally because I just love that body shaping being a newer look F1, but everyone is different. At this time unsure when it will be on the maket but I'd say this will be part of the RTR launch and this will be the body supplied in the kit, just my thought.....

jimjav

iTrader: (1)

I am giving myself as Christmas present a F110 and i have some doubts,

can i use F104 wings??
For Ride R1 Tyres in asphalt what springs will I need, I am talking about front and side springs, as I have a lot options for central sping.
For blinky 21.5T what is a good body?

regards

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

I use the Tamiya F104 Ferrari body and use the tamiya front and rear wings that come with the body kit. I run totally stock asphalt setup and have changed side and front springs but always ended up back to stock setup. I'm very happy with mine. I also have the blitz f1 shell which I'll use the serpent wings and I will probably get the serpent shell as well to try. So far so good!