liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I had to take down the lip on the aluminum ones with a bevel bit to fit the fronts. The rears hubs worked just fine.

6376vette

Wow. I haven't had that type of problem. I did blow a bearing out but it was because of the plastic hex. I converted to the rabbit so now I'm using f104 bearings. I know, not much help.

Would it be possible to coat the axle in something? 3 thou is not much to take up but its also too small to wrap. I'm thinking of maybe a zinc or chrome plating on the axle. Check at your hobby shop and see if someone they know may have a home plating kit. You could even paint the axle just to try the theory out. The paint may not last but it should give you an idea if the plating would work or not. Again maybe not the easiest solution but it might work if someone else doesn't have a better idea. Sorry if if sounds crazy but its late here and I'm tired. its the best I've got right now.

6376vette

I havent noticed any excessive movement but I don't have a lot of track time on the arms either. Saturday will be another long test and race day. I will be sure to keep an eye on them to see if they are wearing.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I already posted this in the G-Top thread, but it belongs here and I've added some detail for this crowd:

Fine, I'll say what I'd like to see with this kind of update. I want the bottom plate, but I want the option to get one that is just for the FGX without the extra F104 front piece. I want the F104 battery plate/upper deck (the "u" shaped piece) to remain the same. Then I want the battery retainer plate (the 5 point piece) to have the mounting holes added for the FGX rear suspension and lengthened in the front to reach the steering rack screw hole. Then just cut the current upper deck right at the point where it now breaks (or add a carbon piece to replace that front section and add the nose cone and camber plate mount). Then I have the best of both worlds, a top loaded battery including better retention with the stiffness of carbon fiber and the proper scale appearance of a modern F1 car.

To take it a step farther. Make it so a shorty can be mounted 90* from normal, it will fit under the widest part of the body easily. I think all it would take is to the make the two upper deck support holes be spaced at the width of the battery (current standard is between 47.5 to 46.5 mm roughly). Add some battery taping fins, like the F103 upper deck, to an optional upper deck to secure the battery. Then I can mount the ESC and Receiver in the back. Then put the Servo down the center, with the saver turned 180* with shorter linkage or even a direct steering option without linkage.


Now its your turn, make some noise! Maybe 3Racing, Rabbit, G-Top and Tamiya will listen.

Team Lotus

+1

Luosi

Today was the first time I got to drive my FGX, and I have a SEVERE handling issue. Basically I cannot get the car to stay in a straight line under braking, it just sways one way to the other, giving me pretty much no confidence. It even sways when I'm trying to do a straight line, I have played with servo settings and everything to try and stop it, but nothing has worked. Its basically the must UNSTABLE RC I have ever driven!

Has anyone else had this issue? How do I stop it?????

rickthejetman

iTrader: (4)

make sure every corner of the car is setup EXACTLY the same. any tweak in the suspension will cause sever handling issues. the rear is kinda hard to get perfect. lots of links and the down stops.

cannon

iTrader: (35)

I wouldn't be blaming the car ... it will be user build issues. As the last post said, go back over your build and make sure everything is correct

Luosi

I've looked over everything the best I can, it all seems in order. Guess I'll just have to have a play with it.

But still, if anyone has any general setup ideas, I'd love to hear them

rickthejetman

iTrader: (4)

check the length of your shocks then move on to the shock links then check that your down stops.. stop the arms at equal lengths. on the front make sure you don't have any tweak by doing the quarter test. if both quarters don't drop off the wheels at the same time make sure you don't have a collapsed spring of that all your spacer are in and in the right place. make sure you don't have to much toe out on the front i usually run straigh or 0 toe.
be methodical on you suspension its the only way to get it right.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

i recieved both of my FGX's today so i will start messing with all of these things over the next few months.

mingnon

iTrader: (12)

Going to sound stupid, but happened to me.
(1) Had similar issue, steering was a bit "wierd" pretty much everywhere. Turns out the arm from the servo to front wheels was rubbing on the top of the battery i was using. I didnt tape the battery in, and when driving it was shifting minimally and knocking around on the servo link.
(2) Also had to turn down the breaking to just about zero, car got "squirelly" when it was turned up anywhere near 50%
hope that helps

Luosi

We have a winner....looks like this was the issue, the battery moving around rubbing against the servo arm. Is taping the battery in the only solution?

I also adjusted my shocks and it feels better as well... so thanks for the tips

mingnon

iTrader: (12)

i changed to a smaller height battery and it solved the issue, was using some batteries got from fleabay and since changing to intellect one havent had issues

was thinking i was the only one with that issue, glad could help in a small way.

MAD916

We had the same issues with one of the cars built by one of our racers... bad pull to the right on brake and some at throtle.... thought it was a drive train issue, but turned out to mostly be setup and tweak...