26Likes3 racing new F1
12-04-2011, 11:18 AM
#946
Ran mine last week for the the second time against 2 well set up 109's on foam, I could just about keep up despite using rubber tires, the car pushed like a dump truck and severely lifted the inside front. The traction was very high on an indoor carpet due to it being a huge event. I determined to the problem was the outer front tire biting and since the rear was planted so well the chassis would twist at the top deck where the front is attached. After trying thicket oil and actually running positive rear camber I resigned to make a new chassis. out with the FRP and plastic top deck, in with 2mm carbon fiber. I also wanted better ground clearance so I flipped the lower mount to the bottom deck.
Here is an in process pic, I may get time to test it some today, but no F1's to run against. but if it carves a corner without hiking the inside, I'll call it a success
Here is an in process pic, I may get time to test it some today, but no F1's to run against. but if it carves a corner without hiking the inside, I'll call it a success
12-04-2011, 04:16 PM
#947
took the car on a low to medium surface today to race... started off bad ... went to softer rear springs, it helped... tried a few things... but when I started to play with the rear droop the car came alive... wow... I really think this is going to be a 104 killer... only time will tell...
On a low note... I hit the end of the long straight and clipped the curb... The beefed up arms held together
... but it ripped the upper deck... 
Car still drove well...
On a low note... I hit the end of the long straight and clipped the curb... The beefed up arms held together
... but it ripped the upper deck... Car still drove well...
12-04-2011, 07:50 PM
#948
I pulled the spacers off the kingpin, put them under the steering arm and dropped the front ride height to 3.5 mm. Set the rear to 3.5 mm and rear droop to 5.5 (2mm movement). Front droop is maybe .5 to 1 mm. Adding some weight on the lower plate as far forward as I can put it.
12-04-2011, 08:26 PM
#949
Is there an excepted Minimum weight for the F1's with 2 cell 21.5?
12-04-2011, 09:09 PM
#951
Tech Master
12-05-2011, 01:34 AM
#953
do you have any part numbers from rcmart for this magic looking link front end?
cheers
12-05-2011, 06:16 AM
#954
9 x 3Racing (#3RAC-TR342) 64 Titanium 3X42mm Turnbuckle (3RAC-TR342) = USD$44.10
3 x *Xpress (#XPA-BN4816) 4.8/16.55 Ball End (10Pcs) (XPA-BN4816) = USD$9.00
3 x *Xpress (#XP07-102V2) Alloy Upper Arm Joint Set (XP07-102V2) = USD$17.70 They also make a plastic version of this part for under $3.00 a pair
2 x *Xpress (#XPA-FB005) 4.8mm Pillow Ball With Stand (For Screw) (1 (XPA-FB005) = USD$9.00
12-05-2011, 08:09 AM
#957
Tech Master
took the car on a low to medium surface today to race... started off bad ... went to softer rear springs, it helped... tried a few things... but when I started to play with the rear droop the car came alive... wow... I really think this is going to be a 104 killer... only time will tell...
On a low note... I hit the end of the long straight and clipped the curb... The beefed up arms held together ... but it ripped the upper deck...
Car still drove well...
On a low note... I hit the end of the long straight and clipped the curb... The beefed up arms held together
... but it ripped the upper deck... Car still drove well...
Did you reinforce the top side and bottom side of the upper and lower arms or just one side? Did you use piano wire or the cf rod.
Any impressions on why the top deck broke?
12-05-2011, 08:54 AM
#958
probably going over 20 mph and clipped a railing just right... I'm amazed the arms held up... If they didn't break after that hit, I don't know what will break it... I ended up running the main with no front wing and won... The car is so hooked up I can't believe it's a 2 WD... I need to take my best 104 out the same day and compare lap times to be sure, but this car sure felt faster...
12-05-2011, 09:31 AM
#959
Tech Master
I reinforced the bottom side just for looks mostly, double wire on the upper arms and single on the lower..... The arms I'm using now have a brass wire, but Dennis Lyman told me to use piano wire which I have done to a second set of arms I haven't tried yet... The top deck broke because I hit "Hard" probably going over 20 mph and clipped a railing just right... I'm amazed the arms held up... If they didn't break after that hit, I don't know what will break it... I ended up running the main with no front wing and won... The car is so hooked up I can't believe it's a 2 WD... I need to take my best 104 out the same day and compare lap times to be sure, but this car sure felt faster...
probably going over 20 mph and clipped a railing just right... I'm amazed the arms held up... If they didn't break after that hit, I don't know what will break it... I ended up running the main with no front wing and won... The car is so hooked up I can't believe it's a 2 WD... I need to take my best 104 out the same day and compare lap times to be sure, but this car sure felt faster...Congrats on the win. I'm looking forward to my first race this weekend. Unfortunately there isn't going to be much practice time before race day.
What did you use to attach the rod? Epoxy, ca, shoe goo etc?
12-05-2011, 09:52 AM
#960
Sounds like you solved the arm problem. I've got some piano wire I bought to make 1/8 scale buggy pins I can use on the arms.
Congrats on the win. I'm looking forward to my first race this weekend. Unfortunately there isn't going to be much practice time before race day.
What did you use to attach the rod? Epoxy, ca, shoe goo etc?
Congrats on the win. I'm looking forward to my first race this weekend. Unfortunately there isn't going to be much practice time before race day.
What did you use to attach the rod? Epoxy, ca, shoe goo etc?