26Likes3 racing new F1
06-15-2012, 06:49 AM
#2926
06-15-2012, 07:24 AM
#2927
fix is to tape or paint the axles.
06-15-2012, 01:29 PM
#2928
From Shizuoka Hobby Show recently.
Courtesy of http://www.hobby-show.info
Courtesy of http://www.hobby-show.info
Might have to get me that setup board too...
06-15-2012, 01:30 PM
#2929
Vibration control gold coating ball bearings. 
06-15-2012, 02:05 PM
#2930
shy. Looks trick tho!! carbon fiber top deck would be nice. Exotec probly getting ready to cad a deck as we gawk!
06-15-2012, 03:07 PM
#2932
Revised 6/15/2012 - I thought it was time to repost as a lot of questions have been popping up. To repost, quote this and then remove the quote tags at the front and rear of the message, then edit the text. That way the formatting stays the same.
BP is now going to have many 3Racing options in stock as well as his excellent sticker sets. Please stay tuned.
FGX Issues:
Weak upper deck - If you are not a clean driver, you will want to replace this before you build the car. Using any of the aftermarket chassis will also give you better motor adjustability and more motor choices.
Leaking rear shocks - you have to tear them down and remove all flashing, then check to make sure the O ring still compresses. You may need to shim the O ring to remove the slop. Many have just replaced the rear shocks with the Team Associated 18th scale truck shocks or Team CRC VCS Encore shocks. Many have had no problems at all.
Warped rear bearing retainers - the retainers for the rear diff on the FGX parts tree can have warped seats.
Weak front arms - resolved with an option part listed below.
* Note: McKune or Exotek conversion to keep the high nose. Rabbit for the F104 front end, but requires the whole F104 front end.
Chassis kit: (a must for indoor)
Exoteck - Unique conversion, does not interchange with stock upper and lower deck parts.
McKune - Upper deck can be used with stock lower.
Rabbit - There are now other variations on this version.
All 3 are excellent and proven in racing already.
For Rabbit:
Tamiya F104 arms, axles, king pins, camber plates, servo mount, steering knuckles, turnbuckles, bearings, front wing, wheels and attaching hardware. (I'm sure I missed something)
3Racing parts you will need for tuning:
High speed gear set - pack of spurs with the gear reduction attached Gear set
Damper spring set - if you run the kit dampers Damper Spring Set
Front spring set Front Spring Set
3Racing option parts you may want initially:
Rear bulk head w/motor mount Rear Bulkhead w/Motor Mount
Rear cammed bearing retainers for the diff (from the Zero) Rear Diff Bearing Carriers
Rear aluminum toe plates - 1*, 2* and 3* (kit plastic one is 2*) 0* toe plate 1* toe plate 2* toe plate 3* toe plate
Front camber plates/35g weight - 1*, 2*, and 3* 1* camber plate 2* camber plate 3* camber plate
Full turnbuckle set Titanium Turnbuckle Set
3Racing Spares:
Full A arm set
Steering knuckle set
King Pin set
Motors that fit the stock kit and give full range of motion (Requires NO parts grinding to fit):
Thunder Power Z3-R
Novak Ballistic
UFO - from China
LRP - gives limited movement.
Tai Chi
Motors that fit the stock kit, but have no adjustablility (Requires parts grinding to fit):
The Reedy Sonic - It will fit properly if you use the v2 motor mount and bulkhead. You need to grind the mount for pinion clearance and will be able run 34/35 pinion spur without moving the deck post.
Silver can Johnson/Mabuchi
Novak SS
Tekin Redline
Anything with a square shoulder on the timing bell basically needs the left rear post moved forward and the upper deck may need to me modified slightly depending on your motor choice.
Exotek options:
Front lower arm braces (in my opinion, not an option)
Delrin rear arms - These are just on the market and give wheelbase adjustability, better geometry and a second damper location point.*
Front upper arms.
Tamiya Options:
F104 Kingpins - they are 3mm longer and allow for better droop and ride height adjustment. They are also extremely strong. - thanks for the reminder Gadget!
F201 Rear Springs - Much stiffer than even the FGX option set.
Tires:
Shimizu 561 front and 565 rear
HPI Soft Front and Medium Rears for Outdoor - Thanks Mantis
Tamiya F201 tires also work.
Ride front tires tend to push. The Super Softs are still very very hard.
Other options:
Link front end or IRS link front end - home grown and still in development, but showing great success so far.
Yeah racing 48p pinion sets - you will probably want pinions from 21 to 38 depending on track size and motor choice.
Various aftermarket rear shocks/dampers - too many to list.
Everyone else feel free to add to this and repost! Please.
Thanks,
John
BP is now going to have many 3Racing options in stock as well as his excellent sticker sets. Please stay tuned.
FGX Issues:
Weak upper deck - If you are not a clean driver, you will want to replace this before you build the car. Using any of the aftermarket chassis will also give you better motor adjustability and more motor choices.
Leaking rear shocks - you have to tear them down and remove all flashing, then check to make sure the O ring still compresses. You may need to shim the O ring to remove the slop. Many have just replaced the rear shocks with the Team Associated 18th scale truck shocks or Team CRC VCS Encore shocks. Many have had no problems at all.
Warped rear bearing retainers - the retainers for the rear diff on the FGX parts tree can have warped seats.
Weak front arms - resolved with an option part listed below.
* Note: McKune or Exotek conversion to keep the high nose. Rabbit for the F104 front end, but requires the whole F104 front end.
Chassis kit: (a must for indoor)
Exoteck - Unique conversion, does not interchange with stock upper and lower deck parts.
McKune - Upper deck can be used with stock lower.
Rabbit - There are now other variations on this version.
All 3 are excellent and proven in racing already.
For Rabbit:
Tamiya F104 arms, axles, king pins, camber plates, servo mount, steering knuckles, turnbuckles, bearings, front wing, wheels and attaching hardware. (I'm sure I missed something)
3Racing parts you will need for tuning:
High speed gear set - pack of spurs with the gear reduction attached Gear set
Damper spring set - if you run the kit dampers Damper Spring Set
Front spring set Front Spring Set
3Racing option parts you may want initially:
Rear bulk head w/motor mount Rear Bulkhead w/Motor Mount
Rear cammed bearing retainers for the diff (from the Zero) Rear Diff Bearing Carriers
Rear aluminum toe plates - 1*, 2* and 3* (kit plastic one is 2*) 0* toe plate 1* toe plate 2* toe plate 3* toe plate
Front camber plates/35g weight - 1*, 2*, and 3* 1* camber plate 2* camber plate 3* camber plate
Full turnbuckle set Titanium Turnbuckle Set
3Racing Spares:
Full A arm set
Steering knuckle set
King Pin set
Motors that fit the stock kit and give full range of motion (Requires NO parts grinding to fit):
Thunder Power Z3-R
Novak Ballistic
UFO - from China
LRP - gives limited movement.
Tai Chi
Motors that fit the stock kit, but have no adjustablility (Requires parts grinding to fit):
The Reedy Sonic - It will fit properly if you use the v2 motor mount and bulkhead. You need to grind the mount for pinion clearance and will be able run 34/35 pinion spur without moving the deck post.
Silver can Johnson/Mabuchi
Novak SS
Tekin Redline
Anything with a square shoulder on the timing bell basically needs the left rear post moved forward and the upper deck may need to me modified slightly depending on your motor choice.
Exotek options:
Front lower arm braces (in my opinion, not an option)
Delrin rear arms - These are just on the market and give wheelbase adjustability, better geometry and a second damper location point.*
Front upper arms.
Tamiya Options:
F104 Kingpins - they are 3mm longer and allow for better droop and ride height adjustment. They are also extremely strong. - thanks for the reminder Gadget!
F201 Rear Springs - Much stiffer than even the FGX option set.
Tires:
Shimizu 561 front and 565 rear
HPI Soft Front and Medium Rears for Outdoor - Thanks Mantis
Tamiya F201 tires also work.
Ride front tires tend to push. The Super Softs are still very very hard.
Other options:
Link front end or IRS link front end - home grown and still in development, but showing great success so far.
Yeah racing 48p pinion sets - you will probably want pinions from 21 to 38 depending on track size and motor choice.
Various aftermarket rear shocks/dampers - too many to list.
Everyone else feel free to add to this and repost! Please.
Thanks,
John
Last edited by liljohn1064; 06-15-2012 at 03:25 PM.
06-15-2012, 03:09 PM
#2933
Wouldn't need a whole deck I think...just an aluminum piece that bolts on to the top in the existing holes for the lower suspension mount.
06-15-2012, 03:13 PM
#2934
Good list Liljohn...only thing I would add to that is the F104 king pins. Several people have switched to them. They are stronger and the extra length gives you more tuning options for front droop. Oh and maybe a different servo saver...the stock one tends to slip.
06-15-2012, 03:18 PM
#2935
and fixed. I'll try to update it every 5 to 10 pages or so.
06-15-2012, 06:03 PM
#2937
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
@liljohn--that's a very helpful list that people running the FGX will find quite useful.
I have been researching what I would need to run an FGX reliably--aside from not crashing--I have independently come to more or less the same conclusion that unless you want to build this thing two or three times over, you will MINIMALLY want the following:
-Chassis conversion (Exotek addresses the issue of breaking off the front nose as well since the carbon upper/addition runs all the way to the tip, and also addresses servo clearance issues)
-Exotek Upper Adjustable Arms (keep stock parts as spares)
-Exotek Lower Reinforcements (if you break the lowers with this, you probably have more damage anyway)
-3 Racing Rear Bulkhead (stock motor mount with Exotek chassis--already gives you more clearance)
-3 Racing Diff Bearing Carriers
I left out all the tuning bits (springs, camber plates) just to get an idea of pricing for people that would be cross-shopping these with other kits with conversions.
I have been researching what I would need to run an FGX reliably--aside from not crashing--I have independently come to more or less the same conclusion that unless you want to build this thing two or three times over, you will MINIMALLY want the following:
-Chassis conversion (Exotek addresses the issue of breaking off the front nose as well since the carbon upper/addition runs all the way to the tip, and also addresses servo clearance issues)
-Exotek Upper Adjustable Arms (keep stock parts as spares)
-Exotek Lower Reinforcements (if you break the lowers with this, you probably have more damage anyway)
-3 Racing Rear Bulkhead (stock motor mount with Exotek chassis--already gives you more clearance)
-3 Racing Diff Bearing Carriers
I left out all the tuning bits (springs, camber plates) just to get an idea of pricing for people that would be cross-shopping these with other kits with conversions.
06-15-2012, 06:19 PM
#2938
06-15-2012, 06:31 PM
#2940
@liljohn--that's a very helpful list that people running the FGX will find quite useful.
I have been researching what I would need to run an FGX reliably--aside from not crashing--I have independently come to more or less the same conclusion that unless you want to build this thing two or three times over, you will MINIMALLY want the following:
-Chassis conversion (Exotek addresses the issue of breaking off the front nose as well since the carbon upper/addition runs all the way to the tip, and also addresses servo clearance issues)
-Exotek Upper Adjustable Arms (keep stock parts as spares)
-Exotek Lower Reinforcements (if you break the lowers with this, you probably have more damage anyway)
-3 Racing Rear Bulkhead (stock motor mount with Exotek chassis--already gives you more clearance)
-3 Racing Diff Bearing Carriers
I left out all the tuning bits (springs, camber plates) just to get an idea of pricing for people that would be cross-shopping these with other kits with conversions.
I have been researching what I would need to run an FGX reliably--aside from not crashing--I have independently come to more or less the same conclusion that unless you want to build this thing two or three times over, you will MINIMALLY want the following:
-Chassis conversion (Exotek addresses the issue of breaking off the front nose as well since the carbon upper/addition runs all the way to the tip, and also addresses servo clearance issues)
-Exotek Upper Adjustable Arms (keep stock parts as spares)
-Exotek Lower Reinforcements (if you break the lowers with this, you probably have more damage anyway)
-3 Racing Rear Bulkhead (stock motor mount with Exotek chassis--already gives you more clearance)
-3 Racing Diff Bearing Carriers
I left out all the tuning bits (springs, camber plates) just to get an idea of pricing for people that would be cross-shopping these with other kits with conversions.
and diff. wit ceramic balls. no need yet for bulkhead. but I'm sure the Exotek chassis will come later. it has plenty of speed, just working on driveability and durability. exotek mods make it much simpler to work on.
The engineer who designed the OG car must really be a complicated nerd. My motto is KISS (keep it simple stupid)
