Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
09-02-2008, 07:58 AM
#6451
Steve,
Please help settle a disagreement. The person who owns the GTB in the attached picture is CONVINCED it has LiPo cutoff circuitry. The picture, according to what you and others have shown and described, seems to pretty clearly show a lack of that circuitry.
What say ye?
Thanks,
Scottrik
Please help settle a disagreement. The person who owns the GTB in the attached picture is CONVINCED it has LiPo cutoff circuitry. The picture, according to what you and others have shown and described, seems to pretty clearly show a lack of that circuitry.
What say ye?
Thanks,
Scottrik
Steve should be along shortly to answer your question.
09-02-2008, 08:47 AM
#6452
I was careful when I took off the end bell with regards to the shims, but there weren't any shims in there. What side of the rotor are the shims usually put, towards toe front end bell or towards the rear end bell? I actually did not remove the rotor at all, so I don't think any of the sensors would be damaged from that. Should I put some shims in there to reduce the endplay and try it again? Could the slight movement of the rear end bell done something, or may be I have messed up the timing?
Would the rotor play cause the clicking noise at full revs?
Would the rotor play cause the clicking noise at full revs?
I don't think the rotor play would cause clicking noise at full revs... either something inside the motor (like a loose shim or something) or a bad bearing could cause it.
I would check the both the front and back bearings for smooth operation, and also take a look inside the motor to make sure there's no debris floating around somehow.
Also, make sure the back endbell is fully screwed down... if it is loose I could see it causing a "clicking" sound.
Steve,
Which mode should I use on the GTB (original speedy) to get MAX braking effect.
I run on asphalt using a 13.5 pro motor.
For some reason it appears to have very little braking.
I set my transmitter throttle rate to neutral before I setup my speedy .
Am I doing something wrong cos I had the same issue when I ran the 5800 motor -poor braking also. When I test the braking with the car off the ground it appears to work ok but on the track it takes ages to slow to a stop its almost like anti locking brakes have been applied.
Does the capacitor on the speedy need to be checked or replaced - if the capacitor is used to help in breaking?
If I program in some drag brake will that increase the "Total breaking effect"
Which mode should I use on the GTB (original speedy) to get MAX braking effect.
I run on asphalt using a 13.5 pro motor.
For some reason it appears to have very little braking.
I set my transmitter throttle rate to neutral before I setup my speedy .
Am I doing something wrong cos I had the same issue when I ran the 5800 motor -poor braking also. When I test the braking with the car off the ground it appears to work ok but on the track it takes ages to slow to a stop its almost like anti locking brakes have been applied.
Does the capacitor on the speedy need to be checked or replaced - if the capacitor is used to help in breaking?
If I program in some drag brake will that increase the "Total breaking effect"
The GTB comes factory set to give "full breaking force" at full brake. If you are not getting full brakes it might be a result of some other issue. I know that brakes can feel rather reduced in the "spec" classes alot of the time due to the rather high gear ratio that is used.
Also, if the motor is well used the rotor might be weaker than it was before, resulting in weaker brakes.
The capacitor shouldn't really play a big part in braking, but it's never a bad idea to replace the cap if you have reason to believe it might be bad.
Hi Steve,
I have noted what I consider to be a fault in the Smart Tray SE version and would greatly appreciate your input.
There are actually 2 issues, but both appear to be related...
1. Voltage Hold mode - after extended periods of having a pack in the voltage hold mode (set to 0.9v cutoff, havent used others) this function appears to "crash" resulting in the display showing "0." only (ie. the 2nd digit disappears) and the tray appears to stop checking the voltage of the cell and drops them down to 0.0v. This happened twice somewhere in the 1-2hr time frame.
2. Normal discharge mode - setting the cutoff voltage to 0.9v and discharging a pack normally works fine. However, I have noticed that on some occasions where I have restarted the discharge mode manually by pressing the button within a short time frame of the last cell reaching the cutoff voltage, that the display flickers and changes to show "9" only (ie. the first digit and decimal point disappear). It should also be noted that when in this mode, the cells appear to be discharged down to 0.0v like in issue # 1.
Issue 2 seems to be able to be replicated by starting the equalize/discharge mode quickly a number of times in a row. Issue 1 has happened twice out of the 4 or 5 times I've used this mode.
Any ideas here Steve?
-Mark
I have noted what I consider to be a fault in the Smart Tray SE version and would greatly appreciate your input.
There are actually 2 issues, but both appear to be related...
1. Voltage Hold mode - after extended periods of having a pack in the voltage hold mode (set to 0.9v cutoff, havent used others) this function appears to "crash" resulting in the display showing "0." only (ie. the 2nd digit disappears) and the tray appears to stop checking the voltage of the cell and drops them down to 0.0v. This happened twice somewhere in the 1-2hr time frame.
2. Normal discharge mode - setting the cutoff voltage to 0.9v and discharging a pack normally works fine. However, I have noticed that on some occasions where I have restarted the discharge mode manually by pressing the button within a short time frame of the last cell reaching the cutoff voltage, that the display flickers and changes to show "9" only (ie. the first digit and decimal point disappear). It should also be noted that when in this mode, the cells appear to be discharged down to 0.0v like in issue # 1.
Issue 2 seems to be able to be replicated by starting the equalize/discharge mode quickly a number of times in a row. Issue 1 has happened twice out of the 4 or 5 times I've used this mode.
Any ideas here Steve?
-Mark
I will try to take some time to look into these issues for you today.
Steve,
Please help settle a disagreement. The person who owns the GTB in the attached picture is CONVINCED it has LiPo cutoff circuitry. The picture, according to what you and others have shown and described, seems to pretty clearly show a lack of that circuitry.
What say ye?
Thanks,
Scottrik
Please help settle a disagreement. The person who owns the GTB in the attached picture is CONVINCED it has LiPo cutoff circuitry. The picture, according to what you and others have shown and described, seems to pretty clearly show a lack of that circuitry.
What say ye?
Thanks,
Scottrik
That ESC does not look to have the LiPo Cut off Circuitry.
09-02-2008, 12:24 PM
#6453
I would like to say Thanks to Steve for taking care of my 4 cel gtb ESC at the IIc race last weekend. Steve took a quick look at it when all 4 lights came on when 1st turned on and he gave me a new one so I could get back on track and will look in to repairs latter on the other ESC
SO THANKS Steve
Tim C
SO THANKS Steve
Tim C
09-02-2008, 12:51 PM
#6454
Hi Mark,
I did some testing with a tray I have here and didn't find any problems resembling the ones you have described.
I left a battery in the tray set at 0.9V in the hold mode and it has been sitting there holding for a few hours now and there was no "hang up".
I then took the pack and reset the tray to normal 0.9V cut off and tried pressing the on/off button in quick succession like you mention and never was able to get the tray to hang up there either.
Are you running the smart tray off of the wall adaptor or straight from a 12V power supply?
If this is occuring at the track it might be that the line voltage is fluctuating a bit and could be what is causing the issue you are seeing. I would recommend trying some "cleaner" power and see if this effects your outcome at all.
As always though, there could be a minor problem with your particular tray, and you should feel free to send it in to us so that we can evaluate it for you.
Hope this helps!
I did some testing with a tray I have here and didn't find any problems resembling the ones you have described.
I left a battery in the tray set at 0.9V in the hold mode and it has been sitting there holding for a few hours now and there was no "hang up".
I then took the pack and reset the tray to normal 0.9V cut off and tried pressing the on/off button in quick succession like you mention and never was able to get the tray to hang up there either.
Are you running the smart tray off of the wall adaptor or straight from a 12V power supply?
If this is occuring at the track it might be that the line voltage is fluctuating a bit and could be what is causing the issue you are seeing. I would recommend trying some "cleaner" power and see if this effects your outcome at all.
As always though, there could be a minor problem with your particular tray, and you should feel free to send it in to us so that we can evaluate it for you.
Hope this helps!
Hi Steve,
I have noted what I consider to be a fault in the Smart Tray SE version and would greatly appreciate your input.
There are actually 2 issues, but both appear to be related...
1. Voltage Hold mode - after extended periods of having a pack in the voltage hold mode (set to 0.9v cutoff, havent used others) this function appears to "crash" resulting in the display showing "0." only (ie. the 2nd digit disappears) and the tray appears to stop checking the voltage of the cell and drops them down to 0.0v. This happened twice somewhere in the 1-2hr time frame.
2. Normal discharge mode - setting the cutoff voltage to 0.9v and discharging a pack normally works fine. However, I have noticed that on some occasions where I have restarted the discharge mode manually by pressing the button within a short time frame of the last cell reaching the cutoff voltage, that the display flickers and changes to show "9" only (ie. the first digit and decimal point disappear). It should also be noted that when in this mode, the cells appear to be discharged down to 0.0v like in issue # 1.
Issue 2 seems to be able to be replicated by starting the equalize/discharge mode quickly a number of times in a row. Issue 1 has happened twice out of the 4 or 5 times I've used this mode.
Any ideas here Steve?
-Mark
I have noted what I consider to be a fault in the Smart Tray SE version and would greatly appreciate your input.
There are actually 2 issues, but both appear to be related...
1. Voltage Hold mode - after extended periods of having a pack in the voltage hold mode (set to 0.9v cutoff, havent used others) this function appears to "crash" resulting in the display showing "0." only (ie. the 2nd digit disappears) and the tray appears to stop checking the voltage of the cell and drops them down to 0.0v. This happened twice somewhere in the 1-2hr time frame.
2. Normal discharge mode - setting the cutoff voltage to 0.9v and discharging a pack normally works fine. However, I have noticed that on some occasions where I have restarted the discharge mode manually by pressing the button within a short time frame of the last cell reaching the cutoff voltage, that the display flickers and changes to show "9" only (ie. the first digit and decimal point disappear). It should also be noted that when in this mode, the cells appear to be discharged down to 0.0v like in issue # 1.
Issue 2 seems to be able to be replicated by starting the equalize/discharge mode quickly a number of times in a row. Issue 1 has happened twice out of the 4 or 5 times I've used this mode.
Any ideas here Steve?
-Mark
09-02-2008, 01:12 PM
#6456
Haha I might get the 4wd car back up and running again soon... especially if there have been some Jerry Lamb sightings! 
09-08-2008, 03:28 AM
#6458
I've got one for you Steve (or anyone else who might be able to help.)
I bought a 21.5 SSPro, and the first weekend on the track the magnet came loose on the rotor. It just spins on the shaft, and you can pull it completely apart. Its just been sitting in my box waiting to be sent back. Well, a buddy is sending his GTB back, so I was going to throw the rotor in with it, until he checked it. It turns out to be a very good rotor. So, my question is what can I glue the rotor back to the shaft with?
I bought a 21.5 SSPro, and the first weekend on the track the magnet came loose on the rotor. It just spins on the shaft, and you can pull it completely apart. Its just been sitting in my box waiting to be sent back. Well, a buddy is sending his GTB back, so I was going to throw the rotor in with it, until he checked it. It turns out to be a very good rotor. So, my question is what can I glue the rotor back to the shaft with?
09-08-2008, 08:37 AM
#6459
Some people have used green "sleeve retainer" loctite on their rotors to good effect!
Good luck!
Good luck!
I've got one for you Steve (or anyone else who might be able to help.)
I bought a 21.5 SSPro, and the first weekend on the track the magnet came loose on the rotor. It just spins on the shaft, and you can pull it completely apart. Its just been sitting in my box waiting to be sent back. Well, a buddy is sending his GTB back, so I was going to throw the rotor in with it, until he checked it. It turns out to be a very good rotor. So, my question is what can I glue the rotor back to the shaft with?
I bought a 21.5 SSPro, and the first weekend on the track the magnet came loose on the rotor. It just spins on the shaft, and you can pull it completely apart. Its just been sitting in my box waiting to be sent back. Well, a buddy is sending his GTB back, so I was going to throw the rotor in with it, until he checked it. It turns out to be a very good rotor. So, my question is what can I glue the rotor back to the shaft with?
09-08-2008, 02:21 PM
#6461
Hi Steve
I bought a 17.5 from a US store and Im located in Australia.
I believe the motor is faulty as it thermals towards the 5 minute mark every race and Ive only just installed it, the gearing is as per the online Novak gear chart and I geared it down as well just to make sure it wasnt the gearing and it still thermalled.
I guess the point of this message is to see how I should send it back for repair or replacement, do I go directly to Novak or through the US hobby store?
Cheers
Adrian
I bought a 17.5 from a US store and Im located in Australia.
I believe the motor is faulty as it thermals towards the 5 minute mark every race and Ive only just installed it, the gearing is as per the online Novak gear chart and I geared it down as well just to make sure it wasnt the gearing and it still thermalled.
I guess the point of this message is to see how I should send it back for repair or replacement, do I go directly to Novak or through the US hobby store?
Cheers
Adrian
09-08-2008, 03:05 PM
#6462
Adrian,
We like to deal directly with the customers so that there aren't any breakdowns in communication!
As far as your problem is concerned, do you have other locals running our motor down there as well that you can get gearing information off of? We try to lend fairly conservative gearing information out... but if your track is rather large the gearing may be off... and a motor running at top RPM most of the time around the track can create nearly as much heat as an over-geared one!
I would recommend to check to make sure that there are no obvious shorts between power phases on the motor, make sure that the bearings are free, and maybe go as far as checking to swapping out your rotor with a new one.
If none of this helps we will be more than happy to work with you on you sending your motor back into us for evaluation and replacement!
Hope this helps!
We like to deal directly with the customers so that there aren't any breakdowns in communication!
As far as your problem is concerned, do you have other locals running our motor down there as well that you can get gearing information off of? We try to lend fairly conservative gearing information out... but if your track is rather large the gearing may be off... and a motor running at top RPM most of the time around the track can create nearly as much heat as an over-geared one!
I would recommend to check to make sure that there are no obvious shorts between power phases on the motor, make sure that the bearings are free, and maybe go as far as checking to swapping out your rotor with a new one.
If none of this helps we will be more than happy to work with you on you sending your motor back into us for evaluation and replacement!
Hope this helps!
Hi Steve
I bought a 17.5 from a US store and Im located in Australia.
I believe the motor is faulty as it thermals towards the 5 minute mark every race and Ive only just installed it, the gearing is as per the online Novak gear chart and I geared it down as well just to make sure it wasnt the gearing and it still thermalled.
I guess the point of this message is to see how I should send it back for repair or replacement, do I go directly to Novak or through the US hobby store?
Cheers
Adrian
I bought a 17.5 from a US store and Im located in Australia.
I believe the motor is faulty as it thermals towards the 5 minute mark every race and Ive only just installed it, the gearing is as per the online Novak gear chart and I geared it down as well just to make sure it wasnt the gearing and it still thermalled.
I guess the point of this message is to see how I should send it back for repair or replacement, do I go directly to Novak or through the US hobby store?
Cheers
Adrian
09-09-2008, 09:57 AM
#6463
09-09-2008, 11:44 AM
#6465
Dan,
The GTB is still a more powerful speedconrol than either the XBR or the Havoc.
The Havoc is more of an entry level system with a lower price point that still has great quality. The Havoc System will come equiped with an 8.5 motor and will be capable of running any of our motors slower than the 8.5... so 10.5, 13.5, 17.5, etc will run well on the Havoc.
The GTB is still a more powerful speedconrol than either the XBR or the Havoc.
The Havoc is more of an entry level system with a lower price point that still has great quality. The Havoc System will come equiped with an 8.5 motor and will be capable of running any of our motors slower than the 8.5... so 10.5, 13.5, 17.5, etc will run well on the Havoc.