fritzD

iTrader: (1)

i put a long thin metal rod(1.5mm L allen wrench that comes with the kit will do) into the holes of the clutchbell right below the 2nd gear. I then use pliers to hold the clutch bell thru the metal rod and used vice grip on the pinion. This is only appilication if the your are not going to use the pinion you are about to remove.

there is a pinion remover tool though, that does not damage the pinion.

maskedrider

iTrader: (4)

jag

I had the same problem. I went back to using the stock shaft. I don't know why it happened but other people seem to use the ti shaft without a problem.

SOLOARTIST 702

DOM how did you like the evo upgrade

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

Great! Easier to clean, first of all. The brake now has a more linear feel to it rather then that on/off feel. Quite a bit more modulation.

Yesterday we hosted a race right middle of a hot rod cruise-in. Drew big crowd, track was way tight and low traction. Tried 1-way, spool and diff. Eventually settle with a diff. Had to use massive amount of brakes in every single corner except the sweeper. No fade at all using stock rotor and pads in 15 minutes.

Dom:

SOLOARTIST 702

thanks

V1-RRR-WC

For all of you who prefer the performance of a front diff in the RRR, can I get a general consensus of which wt oil you found worked best?

If a wide range, please state.

Thanks!

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

For me, I had 50k front and 40k rear. I ran it at a big track 2 weekends ago which has good traction. I got the car to turn in good, but mid corner just sucked. I ended up using a 1-way and it was a much faster car.

Then this past weekend I ran the same diffs setup on a tight track with low traction. Yeah, I managed to wheel the car around, but the turn in was horrible. A lot of guys run 50k front, 30k rear because that's what the majority of the people run. But I would bet my car would have handled much better if I had 30k up front and 50k in the rear.

Dom

ziggy12345

Try 60K front and 10K rear

V1-RRR-WC

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the feedback so far.

Now, I have built two diffs so far in each of my RRR's which I have not gotten the time to test as yet, but would like to get as much data as possible before I head for the track.

One has 120,000 wt Oil and the other 300,000 wt Oil. I am trying to simulate the performance of a spool but still have that inner wheel give to allow for easier turn in.

Has anyone tested these wt's of oil as yet?

So far, I am pleased with 7,000 wt in the rear.

What do you all think????

litespeed-dom

iTrader: (4)

It all depends on your layout, size and especially traction. It's difficult to say.

2 weekends ago, I was talking to the Canadians about setup and what I would consider as a medium traction, they call that high.... And I'll be going to a 2-day this weekend where guys call it high traction, but run full soft rear with no rear sway and 42R tires!!! I would naturally call that low...

So when it comes down to traction, everyone's standard is so different.

Dom

V1-RRR-WC

Hi Dom,

So your typical sequence would be what???

Low traction - Looser Front / Tighter Rear

Higher Traction - Tighter Front / Looser Rear

Please confirm.

Thanks

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

i was using a diff setup on the weekend..
the track has a med grip surface but is a short technical track with lots of on and off throttle turns

i was using 30k front and 10k rear oils in my diff. my car was very tail happy on 37s but when i switched to 40s it was pretty close to dialed but its still a bit too loose on power.

my setup was:
front:
silver springs
0 toe
swaybar on 45degrees
30k diff
stock shock position
camber for the tyres to wear flat

rear:
yellow kyosho springs
silver sway bar
3 degrees toe in
shocks layed down
tyres coning slightly in for camber
some droop but more droop in the front

SOLOARTIST 702

where do you useally race (ie) track are you racing the KYOSHO race at rev.

rcrossco_1

Ive got the same problem about being too loose on power.

Turn in ect is all fine, just that on power it likes to bring the back round way too much.....

Is this being caused by too thinner rear diff oil allowing all the power to unload to one wheel?

Im running 10K in the rear, and was thinking that thicker oil would allow better traction as both wheels would get power down.

Can anyone advise ?