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Old 05-25-2006, 11:16 AM
  #6946  
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Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Ti with steel or aluminum overtime will bond. When I work at a bike shop in college, we use anti-seize grease on all Ti stuff. Put a very light coat of that grease on before you put the collar on will prevent the bonding.

Dom
Correct. It's called cold fusion. So if you're using Ti screws, don't bother putting one in threw the top deck to the steering post. Trust me, it's a pain. Even with the anti-seize, I think the constant vibes and cleaning cause it to fuse anyway. Broke the screw into the shaft, sucked. Dom, good thing bringing this up. I think it was a couple yrs since we talked about it.
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Old 05-25-2006, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
As to how big are they out of the box??? I have no idea, 65/66mm??? Mike, you know?

We true them down to 60/62 to start with the 23T pulley.

Dom
What pulley do we have?????
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Old 05-25-2006, 11:36 AM
  #6948  
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Originally Posted by kidDynomite
Correct. It's called cold fusion. So if you're using Ti screws, don't bother putting one in threw the top deck to the steering post. Trust me, it's a pain. Even with the anti-seize, I think the constant vibes and cleaning cause it to fuse anyway. Broke the screw into the shaft, sucked. Dom, good thing bringing this up. I think it was a couple yrs since we talked about it.

cold fusion ? wasn't it a fleischmann and pons claim that was proved to be false ? anyways, i used a Ti main shaft before, it did deform on the tip area where it mate with the steel sleeve and i had a hard time taking it out. don't know if it is caused by "cold fusion" or by me tightening the screw too much. there is not too much material at the tip. i think it is ok to use it but don't expect it to last as long as the stock one. and it wears out quicker around the bearing area.
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Old 05-25-2006, 12:26 PM
  #6949  
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Originally Posted by MIKE ELLIS
What pulley do we have?????
23T. I just saw the 24T in the parts bin when I was taking inventory. I'm still new enough at this to claim to be ignorant (well, maybe), so you guys will have to enlighten me quite a bit. I know that the tire truer is used to clean-up coned tires and I've seen that people where concerned about tire diameters, splits, etc., but no one really explained the technical reasons behind changing the size of foam tires. Lots of info on rubbers and the 24T.

The way I've got my car setup now, my rear tires wear pretty much flat. The rear left wears more than the rear right, so I swap them after every heat. At the moment, 10-12 tanks reduces the rear tire size from 65mm to roughly 61-62mm. Front wear is minimal and I didn't have a chance to measure them this morning. I already showed up late for work as it is.

Buying a tire truer is not a big deal (ka-ching for Hudy) and maybe our track doesn't require reducing the tire size (what do I know? ), but if the tire sizes truly make a performance difference, then I'm all for it.

Thanks!

Last edited by rmdhawaii; 05-25-2006 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 05-25-2006, 01:15 PM
  #6950  
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
23T. I just saw the 24T in the parts bin when I was taking inventory. I'm still new enough at this to claim to be ignorant (well, maybe), so you guys will have to enlighten me quite a bit. I know that the tire truer is used to clean-up coned tires and I've seen that people where concerned about tire diameters, splits, etc., but no one really explained the technical reasons behind changing the size of foam tires. Lots of info on rubbers and the 24T.

The way I've got my car setup now, my rear tires wear pretty much flat. The rear left wears more than the rear right, so I swap them after every heat. At the moment, 10-12 tanks reduces the rear tire size from 65mm to roughly 61-62mm. Front wear is minimal and I didn't have a chance to measure them this morning. I already showed up late for work as it is.

Buying a tire truer is not a big deal (ka-ching for Hudy) and maybe our track doesn't require reducing the tire size (what do I know? ), but if the tire sizes truly make a performance difference, then I'm all for it.

Thanks!
Even if you do not cut your tires to 60 & 62 , you should cut your fronts to 2mm less than your rear.

For practising at a new track, I use 61mm fronts and 63mm rears while i am learning my way around the track....in 2 tanks your are down to 60 & 62 which is always a good place to start.

I dump the tires at 57 front & 58 rear as I start to tear up the chassis at that size. 3.5mm+ front and 4mm rear ride height.

I find the sweet spot at about 58-59mm front and 60-61mm rear
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Old 05-25-2006, 01:16 PM
  #6951  
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I'm definitely a beginner, but when I trued my tires for the first time, I did notice a considerable difference. I found an Integy Truer at tower Hobbies for $159 right now!!
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Old 05-25-2006, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Osiris 75
I'm definitely a beginner, but when I trued my tires for the first time, I did notice a considerable difference. I found an Integy Truer at tower Hobbies for $159 right now!!
Thanks. The Integy with the Hudy carbide cutter is certainly an option.

Dom & Mike: You guys know anyone that owns the GQ tire truer?
http://www.competition-rc.com/GQtiretruer.php

There were a lot of interesting opinions in the now dead tire truer thread.

Jag: I know you got the Hudy.
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Old 05-25-2006, 02:59 PM
  #6953  
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Dom & Mike: You guys know anyone that owns the GQ tire truer?
http://www.competition-rc.com/GQtiretruer.php

There were a lot of interesting opinions in the now dead tire truer thread.
Rainer, I know you like the latest greatest, so skip the Integy and go straight to the HUDY Fully Automatic!!! You'll be happier.

Both Mike and I own the Hudy Fully Automatic.

I've not heard anything about the GQ truer since it just came out late last year. I had the opportunity to buy one before they came out, but I already owned my Hudy truer and absolutely love it! You can't beat a HUDY doing single pass cut to get tires down to 57.5mm!!!

Dom
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Old 05-25-2006, 03:12 PM
  #6954  
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Thanks. The Integy with the Hudy carbide cutter is certainly an option.

Dom & Mike: You guys know anyone that owns the GQ tire truer?
http://www.competition-rc.com/GQtiretruer.php

There were a lot of interesting opinions in the now dead tire truer thread.

Jag: I know you got the Hudy.

Rainer,

Take my advice.....I had Integy...Go HUDY
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Old 05-25-2006, 03:53 PM
  #6955  
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Originally Posted by robert maestrey
Rainer,

Take my advice.....I had Integy...Go HUDY
The 3-racing is every bit as good and doesnt drain the pocket just the same. Hudy is just way over priced products that I once swore by too.
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Old 05-25-2006, 04:04 PM
  #6956  
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Thanks on the advice for the truer guys.
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Old 05-25-2006, 04:06 PM
  #6957  
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Originally Posted by dougday
Even if you do not cut your tires to 60 & 62 , you should cut your fronts to 2mm less than your rear.

For practising at a new track, I use 61mm fronts and 63mm rears while i am learning my way around the track....in 2 tanks your are down to 60 & 62 which is always a good place to start.

I dump the tires at 57 front & 58 rear as I start to tear up the chassis at that size. 3.5mm+ front and 4mm rear ride height.

I find the sweet spot at about 58-59mm front and 60-61mm rear
Got it!

So when you put your car on the setup board, what tire size are you using to set your initial ride height before making the camber adjustment?
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Old 05-25-2006, 04:11 PM
  #6958  
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I'll tell you one thing, we have guys still running Hudy truer from back in the days, back then it was batched at Serpent truer! We've had Hudy truer dropped from the hood of the truck onto the ground, still running strong.

This is the way I see it... Hudy is $400, last you 10+ years, 40 bucks a year, $3.33 per month....

Dom
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Old 05-25-2006, 04:11 PM
  #6959  
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Got it!

So when you put your car on the setup board, what tire size are you using to set your initial ride height before making the camber adjustment?
Use the stock setup from the manual....5.5 front with 60mm tires and 6mm rear with 62mm tires

BTW, remember to measure your droop from the underside of the extension of the lower arms and not the uprights as is normally done with other cars. I have found that many people make this error in seting up there cars.
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Old 05-25-2006, 04:19 PM
  #6960  
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You guys are the best! I can't thank you enough for all of your advice and assistance.
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