Originally Posted by rmdhawaii

tommi: Thanks! Your experience and opinion is very much appreciated! Just like those VISA commericals: "Good advice from an experienced racer. Priceless."

Originally Posted by maskedrider

Nice one !!
Of course not fogetting the rest who contribute their experience here like Jeff, Mark, Jag ...and many more here ....and of course....... CHEERS !!!!!

Originally Posted by rmdhawaii

Of course not! Everyone here has been extremely helpful! I don't think I would be where I'm at right now without everyone's help. You know that! I am always greatful when someone responds to questions or comments.

Originally Posted by rmdhawaii

B4:

Thanks. I'll definitely keep RC Champ and HarmonyModel in mind.

With regard to the pinion gear: Thanks for the tip. That really helps. The track has good traction. Right now I'm kind of stuck to the track like glue (37 shore all around/20,000 rear diff oil/front oneway). I really have to accelerate and turn hard to get the back end to come around. I actually want to try and loosen up the back a bit by switching to rear 40/42 shore, which should wear a bit better on our track - and allow me to drift a bit. I'm not sure what affect changing the pinon gear will have on my ability to drift, but we do have a lot of turns on a rather small track - and I am looking for better bottom end acceleration to get out of those turns quicker. This is what the track looks like: http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=107670. The straight remains the same, but the inside changes every time we race.

Originally Posted by tommi

Oops sorry...ARO = After Run Oil.

WD40.......I've heard ppl using it that commented that it leaves gel-like substance on the engine part and some said it damages the rubber O-rings of the engine. I do not know to what extent these hold true, but I would not wanna give that a try... Furthermore, the WD40 acts as a "Water Displacement" mainly, that's where the WD came from, it's good in getting rid of the moisture and hence inhibiting rust; but in the aspect of leaving a layer of protective lubricant, I doubt so that it will do a BETTER job than ARO. The WD40 tends to evaporate after a while and leave a thin film of layer, it might work OK if it's for short term (few days) storage, not sure if it's ok for longer term. My recommendation will be either the Novarossi or Tornado ARO.

Oh yes, WD40 dissolves adhesives and eases removal of bonding material, bad for the crank putty!

Originally Posted by fritzD

is there another brand i can use for 3D weight for the centax clutch for the RRR? like mugen or something?

Originally Posted by B4

You could be radical and try the UFO clutch from KFactory not sure of the cost.

Originally Posted by fritzD

is it any good?

Originally Posted by rmdhawaii

tommi: Thanks! Your experience and opinion is very much appreciated! Just like those VISA commericals: "Good advice from an experienced racer. Priceless."

Originally Posted by Jeff Cuffs

hey quick question do they make a wider rear hex so i can run the same off set rim and and still make width

Originally Posted by maskedrider

Nice one !!
Of course not fogetting the rest who contribute their experience here like Jeff, Mark, Jag ...and many more here ....and of course....... CHEERS !!!!!

Originally Posted by B4

Pehaps this will not sit well with everyone but I use Castrol "Handy Oil" (may not be available outside Oz) in a JP that has epoxy in the crank, sewing machine oil is also very similar. I have not experienced and adverse effect yet.

The upside of using the Handy Oil is cost, I can't believe how they can charge so much for ARO.

Originally Posted by B4

Glad your car is stuck. What I do is use the hardest shore possible and work down from there. The problem which you may not have is that if you have to much rear traction it will produce front end push (understeer). Certainly you can reduce the push by increasing front grip but it not ideal. I had a look at the track, doesn't look like it is that tight but if you can get away with a 15T pinion than good luck to you. Are you also going to use a 21T second gear. With the current gearing are you reaching top speed before the end of the straight. Have you tried changing your clutch gap to .6mm or .7mm and/or spring tension.