Kyosho v-one rrr
#2851
Originally Posted by silverM3
This is kind of interesting to me. I always thought the more rigid the chassis is the better it is.
#2852
Tech Adept
has anyone tried the new kyosho factory 7075 chasis for the rrr? I tweaked my old chasis in a bad wreck and picked up this new 7075 chasis and was wondering what responses people have had. The old chasis carried me through 10 gallons so id say it was strong enough but hey there was a 7075 chasis for exactly the same price....
cheers
cheers
#2853
Originally Posted by rcosmax
has anyone tried the new kyosho factory 7075 chasis for the rrr? I tweaked my old chasis in a bad wreck and picked up this new 7075 chasis and was wondering what responses people have had. The old chasis carried me through 10 gallons so id say it was strong enough but hey there was a 7075 chasis for exactly the same price....
cheers
cheers
Let us know how it works. thanks.
#2854
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
The new chassis part number is VZW-214, the design and material are the same as the stock chassis but in gun metal, the only different is there is no cutout for the battery tray, the batt is mount directly onto the chassis.
rcosmax: I dun think the new chassis is available in US yet, I will be running it this weekend. Maybe we can both share our experience with the new chassis and post it here. I think the chassis should provide less flex, as there are not cut out for the batt tray and more suitable for high traction track. But I could be wrong.
rcosmax: I dun think the new chassis is available in US yet, I will be running it this weekend. Maybe we can both share our experience with the new chassis and post it here. I think the chassis should provide less flex, as there are not cut out for the batt tray and more suitable for high traction track. But I could be wrong.
#2855
Originally Posted by Joehwee
The new chassis part number is VZW-214, the design and material are the same as the stock chassis but in gun metal, the only different is there is no cutout for the battery tray, the batt is mount directly onto the chassis.
rcosmax: I dun think the new chassis is available in US yet, I will be running it this weekend. Maybe we can both share our experience with the new chassis and post it here. I think the chassis should provide less flex, as there are not cut out for the batt tray and more suitable for high traction track. But I could be wrong.
rcosmax: I dun think the new chassis is available in US yet, I will be running it this weekend. Maybe we can both share our experience with the new chassis and post it here. I think the chassis should provide less flex, as there are not cut out for the batt tray and more suitable for high traction track. But I could be wrong.
#2857
I just found out another thing that's not on the web site. Kyosho just came out with a titanium 2 speed shaft for the RRR.
#2858
Tech Adept
Thanks for the info. Was the original rrr chasis a 7075 grade chasis? I thought it wasnt. The new packaging says sp 7075. the SP marker usually means they have used a higher grade allum. (or higher quality material)than the stock component. I dont know how it will run but it looks slick! It would make changing out a battery a little longer as you have the battery mounted with 2side tape and glass tape, but this may lower the cg a tiny bit more because the battery is actually lower than the mounting surface of the chasis. I will be hitting the track this weekend (rained out the last 3 weekends ) ill let everyone how it performs.
i was busting a tank every other week, but after a careful soldering of the tank joint and slightly larger upperdeck mounting holes and 2 seals on the cap that problem is gone and the tank seems to be holding together much better. these tips were all suggested by guys on here but it took me awile to get around to them all. A slightly more longitudinally rigid chasis will help too as Jeffreylin said above. The rrr seems to have so much adjustability it may be able to handle a stiffer chasis with some setup changes.
i was busting a tank every other week, but after a careful soldering of the tank joint and slightly larger upperdeck mounting holes and 2 seals on the cap that problem is gone and the tank seems to be holding together much better. these tips were all suggested by guys on here but it took me awile to get around to them all. A slightly more longitudinally rigid chasis will help too as Jeffreylin said above. The rrr seems to have so much adjustability it may be able to handle a stiffer chasis with some setup changes.
#2859
Originally Posted by AndyT ©
You`ll need a solid axle adaptor (theres a plastic one in the kit but this`ll strip)....3-Racing make a aluminium one.
You`ll need the VZ218 outdrives, and (4) 2 x 6mm F/H screws to mount the pulley.
Its worthwhile to also get a new pulley (then theres no having to swap them between the one-way and front diff/spool)....its the same pulley as the one-way.....pulley set part # is VZ203.
Cheers
You`ll need the VZ218 outdrives, and (4) 2 x 6mm F/H screws to mount the pulley.
Its worthwhile to also get a new pulley (then theres no having to swap them between the one-way and front diff/spool)....its the same pulley as the one-way.....pulley set part # is VZ203.
Cheers
#2860
Originally Posted by Kyle Hazell
Relax bro, have a bex and a lie down.......
There are no issue's fitting the solid axle in, i think your problem is you have used the inside spacer on the pully??? You dont need that bit, the axle should float in between the bulkheads...
What you also have to do is space the ballcups down 1mm on the servo saver, this will then clear the housing.
As for using a solid at Fairy Medow, well im not sure thats the gun setup....
See ya on Sunday..
Regards
Kyle
There are no issue's fitting the solid axle in, i think your problem is you have used the inside spacer on the pully??? You dont need that bit, the axle should float in between the bulkheads...
What you also have to do is space the ballcups down 1mm on the servo saver, this will then clear the housing.
As for using a solid at Fairy Medow, well im not sure thats the gun setup....
See ya on Sunday..
Regards
Kyle
yeh, i did glue the damn side onto the pulley ok so thats a solution to problem one fixed, thanks mate hopefully i got another spare 27t front pulley here... or i might be swearing again lol
also for problem two, just space the pillowbals on the ackerman down 1mm correct? so in effect lowering the position of the front tierods connect to ackerman.
thanks bud! now i might be this saturday for a test!
you going to the WC at fairy meadow kyle?
#2861
Originally Posted by Dynamite
Hey kyle, hows things?
yeh, i did glue the damn side onto the pulley ok so thats a solution to problem one fixed, thanks mate hopefully i got another spare 27t front pulley here... or i might be swearing again lol
also for problem two, just space the pillowbals on the ackerman down 1mm correct? so in effect lowering the position of the front tierods connect to ackerman.
thanks bud! now i might be this saturday for a test!
you going to the WC at fairy meadow kyle?
yeh, i did glue the damn side onto the pulley ok so thats a solution to problem one fixed, thanks mate hopefully i got another spare 27t front pulley here... or i might be swearing again lol
also for problem two, just space the pillowbals on the ackerman down 1mm correct? so in effect lowering the position of the front tierods connect to ackerman.
thanks bud! now i might be this saturday for a test!
you going to the WC at fairy meadow kyle?
No worries glad i could help out. Yes for problem 2 as well, just space them down and all will be fine. Things are going pretty good, were happy with the progress being made, we have learnt quite a bit about the car since the NSW State Titles, so yeah were moving foward which is good!!
Yes we are racing at the Winter Cup thingo, should be a great event.
Hope to see you there
Regards
Kyle
#2862
Originally Posted by jeffreylin
I just found out another thing that's not on the web site. Kyosho just came out with a titanium 2 speed shaft for the RRR.
Could they be also for the RRR?
#2863
Tech Regular
Not sure if they will work NiMo, the standard parts a different.
S3
Front VZ-051
Rear VZ-050
RRR
Front VZ-111
Rear VZ-227
S3
Front VZ-051
Rear VZ-050
RRR
Front VZ-111
Rear VZ-227
#2864
Originally Posted by NiMo
I saw VZW102 & VZW103, but they are marked up as V1-S3 parts.
Could they be also for the RRR?
Could they be also for the RRR?
#2865
Originally Posted by NiMo
I saw VZW102 & VZW103, but they are marked up as V1-S3 parts.
Could they be also for the RRR?
Could they be also for the RRR?