TRAJ

Some probs were listed with the servo afew pages back about clearence for the topdeck but never head of it touching the battery

Try maybe moving the battery abit futher back on the battery plate should have room

TRAJ

Also there is a set of shim blocks that are included in the kit which is designed for the 9451 servo

make sure you have the right shims installed

dodo

sometimes you need to trim the servo horn at one side so it provide some space for the horn to move further without touching the receiver batt.

buboy28

ok thanks will have to double check on that

buboy28

i already did, half of the thickness have been cut off

Dynamite

does anyone know what difference changing the akerman on the steering has on the car handling or well steering at least? I would presume the "11" which you would install when following the instuction manual which i did... would be the best all round situation with either of the other two providing more and less steering?

Also if i wanted to try a front lock diff, do i need to buy a set of specific outdrives to suit the application? or do the same ones for rear fit into the front?

thanks for any information

Kyle Hazell

iTrader: (17)

Hi Dynamite,

(11) is a good starting point, which i ran at the NSW State Titles recently, however in high traction changing to (12) will make the car easier to drive. (10) will give you more steering, which might be ok for Tamworth (never raced there), but from what i can see its a tight track.

Lock front diff is something we have tried with limited success, its generally only used tame the car down on corner entry, especially if its bumpy. You will need different outdrives (VZ-218), and the pully set. Also make sure you use the 3 Racing insert as the std one will destroy itself in no time.

Regards

Kyle

AndyT ©

The 200mm body should fit fine.......once you have it centred then trim the wheel arches to allow proper clearance.
Also, if youre using a Protoform Mazda 6 body, reverse the rear body posts, that way they wont come up underneath the rear wing.
Cheers

AndyT ©

It shouldnt really need any cutting.....make sure you dont take too much off
As Traj said.....you need the different spacers (part #112)(check the top right hand corner of page 23) to get the 9451 to fit properly....I also used the larger rubber grommets that came with the 9451 to help with clearance.
Cheers

dodo

and if u're using the rear swaybar, don't forget to trim the bottom part of the body post, bcs when the swaybar travels up, it will slightly touch the bottom of the post (when reversed)

dodo

i think even if u use the correct spacer, you will need to trim so that the servo horn won't touch the battery when it travels toward the battery. but to cut until half of the thickness... i think u got the risk of breaking the servo horn... maybe?

Dynamite

Thanks for the info kyle

I was also wondering whats the best way to set your track width? I just use a set of digital calipers and set them according to the manual, the distance from the arm to the hub, then after setting all that i use my setup board to set the front / rear cambers and toe's. But i was also reading somewhere that the best way to do it was to measure from the chassis to the hub for both Left and right... which is the best way to measure it and the best way to go about doing it - or is what i'm doing the easiest way?

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

I just got back from the RD Logics race in Vegas. The car was great with the changes I made. I had issues with the motor though.

The 2 degree front hubs tremendously with on power steering and raising the rear shocks all the way up really helped with corner entry stability. Me and Alex both had really good cars but bad luck and motor problems kept us out of the A-main.

If anyone races in Vegas with the V-one RRR, we have a great easy to drive set up.

AndyT ©

I used the same method for setting mine.....put the calipers between the hub and the arm and then set according to the manual.
One prob i had though, was when running at the recommended gap of 4.2mm that i "popped" the dog bones (also seen another RRR besides mine do this as well).
By narrowing this gap I havent had any probs since, but this leaves a slightly narrower track width.......I have some swingarms to put on the front, hopefully they`ll help to get track width back closer to stock.
I`d be interested as to how accurate it is to set the track width using one the Hudy setup boards?
Cheers

buboy28

already checked it and i used the correct spacers for the 9451 plus the rubber grommets that camewith it. dont know what's the problem will have to dis assemble this part and re assemble it again