1LikesBarracuda from Alex racing
05-08-2002, 10:55 PM
#31
Originally posted by seaball
man, maybe it's just me, but i would never run a shaft drive car that doesn't have sealed diffs. at least not on asphalt. i know my spur gets killed in a few weeks. of course we don't do much prep. i dunno.
man, maybe it's just me, but i would never run a shaft drive car that doesn't have sealed diffs. at least not on asphalt. i know my spur gets killed in a few weeks. of course we don't do much prep. i dunno.
Gotta wait and see what happens.
05-08-2002, 11:27 PM
#32
rcruv: This is not absolute, but there is a guy in New York who could get Alex's CE4 kits, I know because I got one from him. If he is still in business and around I am sure he can get the Barracuda here in the states! Originally I got his info from an old RC Car Action magazine when I got my CE4, but since It is packed away where I can't get to it, so the only info I have is from the purchase order and email he sent.
The companys name and address is:
Sakura International Company Inc.
226 Pacific Street
Brooklyn, New York 11201
I have a Tel # 718-935-0333 and Fax 718-488-0639
The mans name is Takao Saito, Email- [email protected]
I never spoke to him on the phone only through emails, and I know that he frequently travels overseas so I don't know how easy he is to get by phone but if you send an Email he will reply within a day or two! I can tell you this though, most likely it will not be cheap by any means, I paid a hefty price for my CE4 and would imagine this car would be no different! RC Control center also has the Barracuda car and they sell the CE4 for less than I paid through this guy in New York. He is honest though, I can say I never had a problem with any of my purchases through him and got all that I payed for!
The companys name and address is:
Sakura International Company Inc.
226 Pacific Street
Brooklyn, New York 11201
I have a Tel # 718-935-0333 and Fax 718-488-0639
The mans name is Takao Saito, Email- [email protected]
I never spoke to him on the phone only through emails, and I know that he frequently travels overseas so I don't know how easy he is to get by phone but if you send an Email he will reply within a day or two! I can tell you this though, most likely it will not be cheap by any means, I paid a hefty price for my CE4 and would imagine this car would be no different! RC Control center also has the Barracuda car and they sell the CE4 for less than I paid through this guy in New York. He is honest though, I can say I never had a problem with any of my purchases through him and got all that I payed for!
05-09-2002, 07:34 AM
#33
Originally posted by WailinOnYa
rcruv: This is not absolute, but there is a guy in New York who could get Alex's CE4 kits, I know because I got one from him. If he is still in business and around I am sure he can get the Barracuda here in the states! Originally I got his info from an old RC Car Action magazine when I got my CE4, but since It is packed away where I can't get to it, so the only info I have is from the purchase order and email he sent.
The companys name and address is:
Sakura International Company Inc.
226 Pacific Street
Brooklyn, New York 11201
I have a Tel # 718-935-0333 and Fax 718-488-0639
The mans name is Takao Saito, Email- [email protected]
I never spoke to him on the phone only through emails, and I know that he frequently travels overseas so I don't know how easy he is to get by phone but if you send an Email he will reply within a day or two! I can tell you this though, most likely it will not be cheap by any means, I paid a hefty price for my CE4 and would imagine this car would be no different! RC Control center also has the Barracuda car and they sell the CE4 for less than I paid through this guy in New York. He is honest though, I can say I never had a problem with any of my purchases through him and got all that I payed for!
rcruv: This is not absolute, but there is a guy in New York who could get Alex's CE4 kits, I know because I got one from him. If he is still in business and around I am sure he can get the Barracuda here in the states! Originally I got his info from an old RC Car Action magazine when I got my CE4, but since It is packed away where I can't get to it, so the only info I have is from the purchase order and email he sent.
The companys name and address is:
Sakura International Company Inc.
226 Pacific Street
Brooklyn, New York 11201
I have a Tel # 718-935-0333 and Fax 718-488-0639
The mans name is Takao Saito, Email- [email protected]
I never spoke to him on the phone only through emails, and I know that he frequently travels overseas so I don't know how easy he is to get by phone but if you send an Email he will reply within a day or two! I can tell you this though, most likely it will not be cheap by any means, I paid a hefty price for my CE4 and would imagine this car would be no different! RC Control center also has the Barracuda car and they sell the CE4 for less than I paid through this guy in New York. He is honest though, I can say I never had a problem with any of my purchases through him and got all that I payed for!
Are you still running CE4?
How do you like it?
I think it's a dramatic change going from a front motor design of CE4 to rear motor design of Barracuda not to mention the shaft.
I heard that CE4 is very easy to drive.
Could you go faster with the car?
05-09-2002, 07:43 AM
#34
[QUOTE]Originally posted by rcruv
[B]
How's your kai chassis working out for you?
Big improvement over stock chassis?
the kai replica i have is a great chassis
for pro3 chassis i have
stock chassis (tub)
graphite chassis (tub)
penguin chassis
cross chassis
kai replica chassis
[B]
How's your kai chassis working out for you?
Big improvement over stock chassis?
the kai replica i have is a great chassis
for pro3 chassis i have
stock chassis (tub)
graphite chassis (tub)
penguin chassis
cross chassis
kai replica chassis
05-09-2002, 12:11 PM
#35
rcruv: I have yet to have had the chance to race my CE4 yet! I haven't ran it in a while. I ran into a problem with the kit which I have yet to be able to determine the problem. The rear ball diff lacks diff action and when I loosen it so it moves freely it slips. I have taken it apart multiple times and still the same thing. When I get around to it I will tear it down again and swap outdrives to see if it was a machining problem of some sort and change the diff balls as well. I have assembled many different diffs and never had this problem before! Someone mentioned it may be due to the Delrin outdrives distorting when they are tightened but my nephew had a OB4 Mid with delrin outdrives and they worked flawlessley! Eventually I will get it working properly, I hope. 
05-09-2002, 05:54 PM
#36
[QUOTE]Originally posted by pro3racing
[B]
Even replica is great, I can't imagine how good the original kai parts would be.
You have quite a collection of chassis.
I email k models and haven't received any reply yet. I'll keep trying.
[B]
Originally posted by rcruv
How's your kai chassis working out for you?
Big improvement over stock chassis?
the kai replica i have is a great chassis
for pro3 chassis i have
stock chassis (tub)
graphite chassis (tub)
penguin chassis
cross chassis
kai replica chassis
How's your kai chassis working out for you?
Big improvement over stock chassis?
the kai replica i have is a great chassis
for pro3 chassis i have
stock chassis (tub)
graphite chassis (tub)
penguin chassis
cross chassis
kai replica chassis
You have quite a collection of chassis.
I email k models and haven't received any reply yet. I'll keep trying.
05-09-2002, 05:58 PM
#37
Originally posted by rcruv
Even replica is great, I can't imagine how good the original kai parts would be.
You have quite a collection of chassis.
I email k models and haven't received any reply yet. I'll keep trying.
Even replica is great, I can't imagine how good the original kai parts would be.
You have quite a collection of chassis.
I email k models and haven't received any reply yet. I'll keep trying.
is the real kai has a dull finish and the replica a glossy finish
the cross chassis i have that came from hong kong has the dull finish its a much nicer woven graphite i think.
05-09-2002, 06:04 PM
#38
Originally posted by pro3racing
the only difference between the real and the replica
is the real kai has a dull finish and the replica a glossy finish
the cross chassis i have that came from hong kong has the dull finish its a much nicer woven graphite i think.
the only difference between the real and the replica
is the real kai has a dull finish and the replica a glossy finish
the cross chassis i have that came from hong kong has the dull finish its a much nicer woven graphite i think.
Did you put super glue at the edges?
Due to high cost of pure carbon fiber, I doubt if they used too much in those parts. And the electric rc car is pretty fast you know.
It could break even titanium parts, I hope rc companies realise it and make it more stronger.
05-09-2002, 06:12 PM
#39
Originally posted by WailinOnYa
rcruv: I have yet to have had the chance to race my CE4 yet! I haven't ran it in a while. I ran into a problem with the kit which I have yet to be able to determine the problem. The rear ball diff lacks diff action and when I loosen it so it moves freely it slips. I have taken it apart multiple times and still the same thing. When I get around to it I will tear it down again and swap outdrives to see if it was a machining problem of some sort and change the diff balls as well. I have assembled many different diffs and never had this problem before! Someone mentioned it may be due to the Delrin outdrives distorting when they are tightened but my nephew had a OB4 Mid with delrin outdrives and they worked flawlessley! Eventually I will get it working properly, I hope.
rcruv: I have yet to have had the chance to race my CE4 yet! I haven't ran it in a while. I ran into a problem with the kit which I have yet to be able to determine the problem. The rear ball diff lacks diff action and when I loosen it so it moves freely it slips. I have taken it apart multiple times and still the same thing. When I get around to it I will tear it down again and swap outdrives to see if it was a machining problem of some sort and change the diff balls as well. I have assembled many different diffs and never had this problem before! Someone mentioned it may be due to the Delrin outdrives distorting when they are tightened but my nephew had a OB4 Mid with delrin outdrives and they worked flawlessley! Eventually I will get it working properly, I hope.
Once I get the kit I was planning to put in better diff balls to be on the safe side. Did you put in diff lube in it and check the balls?
Also in case of TC3 diff, the thrus ball spring had to be compressed a few times before the installation, I wonder if that could apply to CE4's diff. Was it front or rear or both?
I hope that I can install TC3 diff, I love them. Strong and smooth.
Never had any problem with them.
Let me know if you find the problem.
05-09-2002, 06:17 PM
#40
Originally posted by rcruv
Doesn't it split after a while?
Did you put super glue at the edges?
Due to high cost of pure carbon fiber, I doubt if they used too much in those parts. And the electric rc car is pretty fast you know.
It could break even titanium parts, I hope rc companies realise it and make it more stronger.
Doesn't it split after a while?
Did you put super glue at the edges?
Due to high cost of pure carbon fiber, I doubt if they used too much in those parts. And the electric rc car is pretty fast you know.
It could break even titanium parts, I hope rc companies realise it and make it more stronger.
05-09-2002, 10:52 PM
#41
rcruv: It had adequate lube on the rings and balls. At first I thought the male side with the post that the diff pulleys bearing rides on may have been too long and wasn't allowing the thrust bearing to do it's job but after a tear down and inspection it appeared to be fine. The only other thing that has come to mind is that somehow the diff balls are a tad undersized and the bearing that the diff pulley rides on is rubbing the adjacent bearing that is in the opposing outdrive! In other words it is being squezzed against the other bearing because the diff balls are too small and they are barely putting pressure on the rings! I don't know if this is the problem, I am affraid it is highly unlikely to have the wrong sized diff balls because they seem to fit in the holes in the diff pulley perfectly, but at this time it is the only other thing I can think of! It has next to nothing as far as diff action is concerned! It is so tight you can only get the adjacent wheel to spin 2-3 times by spinning the other wheel. The car comes with a double one-way in the front, it has a one-way diff and a one way layshaft pulley so I don't have to worry about the front end. If I loosen the diff even a little it will slip, go figure! The rings are keyed to the outdrives so I know that they cannot be slipping, eventually when I get the time I will figure it out, until then!
05-09-2002, 11:16 PM
#42
Originally posted by WailinOnYa
rcruv: It had adequate lube on the rings and balls. At first I thought the male side with the post that the diff pulleys bearing rides on may have been too long and wasn't allowing the thrust bearing to do it's job but after a tear down and inspection it appeared to be fine. The only other thing that has come to mind is that somehow the diff balls are a tad undersized and the bearing that the diff pulley rides on is rubbing the adjacent bearing that is in the opposing outdrive! In other words it is being squezzed against the other bearing because the diff balls are too small and they are barely putting pressure on the rings! I don't know if this is the problem, I am affraid it is highly unlikely to have the wrong sized diff balls because they seem to fit in the holes in the diff pulley perfectly, but at this time it is the only other thing I can think of! It has next to nothing as far as diff action is concerned! It is so tight you can only get the adjacent wheel to spin 2-3 times by spinning the other wheel. The car comes with a double one-way in the front, it has a one-way diff and a one way layshaft pulley so I don't have to worry about the front end. If I loosen the diff even a little it will slip, go figure! The rings are keyed to the outdrives so I know that they cannot be slipping, eventually when I get the time I will figure it out, until then!
rcruv: It had adequate lube on the rings and balls. At first I thought the male side with the post that the diff pulleys bearing rides on may have been too long and wasn't allowing the thrust bearing to do it's job but after a tear down and inspection it appeared to be fine. The only other thing that has come to mind is that somehow the diff balls are a tad undersized and the bearing that the diff pulley rides on is rubbing the adjacent bearing that is in the opposing outdrive! In other words it is being squezzed against the other bearing because the diff balls are too small and they are barely putting pressure on the rings! I don't know if this is the problem, I am affraid it is highly unlikely to have the wrong sized diff balls because they seem to fit in the holes in the diff pulley perfectly, but at this time it is the only other thing I can think of! It has next to nothing as far as diff action is concerned! It is so tight you can only get the adjacent wheel to spin 2-3 times by spinning the other wheel. The car comes with a double one-way in the front, it has a one-way diff and a one way layshaft pulley so I don't have to worry about the front end. If I loosen the diff even a little it will slip, go figure! The rings are keyed to the outdrives so I know that they cannot be slipping, eventually when I get the time I will figure it out, until then!
I wonder if the diff of CE4 is the same as Barracuda's.
I'll check and let you know.
05-10-2002, 06:27 PM
#43
According to a used to be CE4 driver who turned to Barracuda,
1. bad thrust balls
2. tension spring for diff screw not properly installed
3. disfigured diff balls or diff ring due to overtightening
4. again not enough diff grease such as black grease from TC3
But I don't think these would be the problem in your case according to what you say.
Let us know if you get to fix the problem.
1. bad thrust balls
2. tension spring for diff screw not properly installed
3. disfigured diff balls or diff ring due to overtightening
4. again not enough diff grease such as black grease from TC3
But I don't think these would be the problem in your case according to what you say.
Let us know if you get to fix the problem.
Originally posted by WailinOnYa
rcruv: It had adequate lube on the rings and balls. At first I thought the male side with the post that the diff pulleys bearing rides on may have been too long and wasn't allowing the thrust bearing to do it's job but after a tear down and inspection it appeared to be fine. The only other thing that has come to mind is that somehow the diff balls are a tad undersized and the bearing that the diff pulley rides on is rubbing the adjacent bearing that is in the opposing outdrive! In other words it is being squezzed against the other bearing because the diff balls are too small and they are barely putting pressure on the rings! I don't know if this is the problem, I am affraid it is highly unlikely to have the wrong sized diff balls because they seem to fit in the holes in the diff pulley perfectly, but at this time it is the only other thing I can think of! It has next to nothing as far as diff action is concerned! It is so tight you can only get the adjacent wheel to spin 2-3 times by spinning the other wheel. The car comes with a double one-way in the front, it has a one-way diff and a one way layshaft pulley so I don't have to worry about the front end. If I loosen the diff even a little it will slip, go figure! The rings are keyed to the outdrives so I know that they cannot be slipping, eventually when I get the time I will figure it out, until then!
rcruv: It had adequate lube on the rings and balls. At first I thought the male side with the post that the diff pulleys bearing rides on may have been too long and wasn't allowing the thrust bearing to do it's job but after a tear down and inspection it appeared to be fine. The only other thing that has come to mind is that somehow the diff balls are a tad undersized and the bearing that the diff pulley rides on is rubbing the adjacent bearing that is in the opposing outdrive! In other words it is being squezzed against the other bearing because the diff balls are too small and they are barely putting pressure on the rings! I don't know if this is the problem, I am affraid it is highly unlikely to have the wrong sized diff balls because they seem to fit in the holes in the diff pulley perfectly, but at this time it is the only other thing I can think of! It has next to nothing as far as diff action is concerned! It is so tight you can only get the adjacent wheel to spin 2-3 times by spinning the other wheel. The car comes with a double one-way in the front, it has a one-way diff and a one way layshaft pulley so I don't have to worry about the front end. If I loosen the diff even a little it will slip, go figure! The rings are keyed to the outdrives so I know that they cannot be slipping, eventually when I get the time I will figure it out, until then!
05-11-2002, 01:28 PM
#44
rcruv: Thanks for the info! The funny thing is I have tore it down like 3-4 times now and it always turns out the same as when I first assembled it. The tension spring can only go in one way so I am not sure what he means by that, unless it got distorted and wasn't applying even pressure, but even then it wouldn't feel the way it does. At this point I have to say it is either the diff balls and or the thrust balls, but it deffinately has enough grease, no different than any of my other diffs. I will solve this problem sooner or later. Did he mention whether or not he had this problem or something similar? I posted a couple of times to get some of these CE4 owners out of the woodwork, lol, they are remaining hidden at this time, I never got any owners responses, oh well!
05-11-2002, 01:56 PM
#45
Originally posted by WailinOnYa
rcruv: Thanks for the info! The funny thing is I have tore it down like 3-4 times now and it always turns out the same as when I first assembled it. The tension spring can only go in one way so I am not sure what he means by that, unless it got distorted and wasn't applying even pressure, but even then it wouldn't feel the way it does. At this point I have to say it is either the diff balls and or the thrust balls, but it deffinately has enough grease, no different than any of my other diffs. I will solve this problem sooner or later. Did he mention whether or not he had this problem or something similar? I posted a couple of times to get some of these CE4 owners out of the woodwork, lol, they are remaining hidden at this time, I never got any owners responses, oh well!
rcruv: Thanks for the info! The funny thing is I have tore it down like 3-4 times now and it always turns out the same as when I first assembled it. The tension spring can only go in one way so I am not sure what he means by that, unless it got distorted and wasn't applying even pressure, but even then it wouldn't feel the way it does. At this point I have to say it is either the diff balls and or the thrust balls, but it deffinately has enough grease, no different than any of my other diffs. I will solve this problem sooner or later. Did he mention whether or not he had this problem or something similar? I posted a couple of times to get some of these CE4 owners out of the woodwork, lol, they are remaining hidden at this time, I never got any owners responses, oh well!
I think he meant not properly seated tension spring when being installed. But it doesn't seem to be your case.
I would also suspect the balls and the ring. I would rebuild it using new carbide balls with new ring to make sure that they're not the problem and see what happens. I heard that some low grade balls tends to deform under pressure bending the ring.
I doubt if the kit includes carbide balls.
He also mentioned that missing thrust ball but I didn't post it 'cuz it's too obvious.
I believe he or his friends had similar problems and fixed it. He was racing CE4 until last year when he turned to Barracuda so if you ask questions here I can relay it to him since he's not too comfortable with his English.
Keep us updated on it if you come up with the solution.
I think CE4/Barracuda not being readily available in US and possibly Europe too, drivers are just reading the post and not writing much.
I urge CE4/Barracuda drivers all around the world to come out, speak up, and share little secrets eachother.
I know I will.