Team Associated TC4
My tub tc4 is 1138grams without battery and body, but with heavy sweep tires(120+grams)... My factory team tc4 is 1074grams without battery and body, but with heavy sweep tires, and heavy electronics(gtb esc +full size servo).... I think 1020grams or under is what we should be shooting for here....
Ok. My car is 1160 without a pack and body on. I don't want to get to light as the track I frequent most weight minimum is 1400 and I am not about to add a ton of lead to my car. it's bad fast as it is. Just needs a better driver. @ robert421 if I guess right the axle goes thru that top hole? Can u just change the nut that holds it on or is it threaded also?
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Soooooo.... If I buy a 190 mm body for my tc4 the offset wheels I want are 0 or 3mm offset?
Aaaaaannnnnd... IF I buy a 200mm body would I want 6 or 9mm off set?
Thinking about a body for drifting and a body for 17.5 racing
Aaaaaannnnnd... IF I buy a 200mm body would I want 6 or 9mm off set?
Thinking about a body for drifting and a body for 17.5 racing
Tech Champion
iTrader: (165)
I just picked up a TC4 Club Racer and rather than run it in CVTA, I decided to set it up as a sedan for practice days. I went old school with a 19T brushed motor and an LRP Quantum ESC, but more modern with a Tactic TTX240 2.4ghz radio and a 2S Hobbyking lipo. Should be good cheap fun for practicing my lines.
Last edited by SteveM; 12-24-2015 at 07:55 AM.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
@steveomatik for 190mm racing you want 0 offset most race bodies are just barely 190mm so there is no room for offset. for 200mm bodies it varies by body personally I run an hpi mustang gtr and 3mm front and 6mm offset in the rear looks the best. I have 9mm wheels and they actually stick out of the body quite a bit however if I put my 70 hpi challenger or my big skyline they will take 6mm in the front and 9mm in the rear no problem.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
During preparation for this week racn' on sealed asphalt, looking at the links. Wanted to lower the inner link mounts BUT didn't want to Mod the mount area >> didn't want to weaken it.
So, changed the inner link ballstuds F/R to #6276 (.200) these are shorter in height than the stock ballstuds about .020-.030.
Then on the front ballstud at the c-hub put on one #9630 ballstud washer.
The old timers will remember, that adding or not a ballstud washer was tuning option on the B3/T3's front outer link mount.
The TC4 has NEVER been this steady on the track.
TQ'd / 1st >> lapped the entire field.
===
Track.
http://www.t3t4webservice.com/mann.html
.
So, changed the inner link ballstuds F/R to #6276 (.200) these are shorter in height than the stock ballstuds about .020-.030.
Then on the front ballstud at the c-hub put on one #9630 ballstud washer.
The old timers will remember, that adding or not a ballstud washer was tuning option on the B3/T3's front outer link mount.
The TC4 has NEVER been this steady on the track.
TQ'd / 1st >> lapped the entire field.
===
Track.
http://www.t3t4webservice.com/mann.html
.
That's a nice track.... Congrats on the TQ and win...
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
Multipurpose track keeps the crowd coming....
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
@steveomatik for 190mm racing you want 0 offset most race bodies are just barely 190mm so there is no room for offset. for 200mm bodies it varies by body personally I run an hpi mustang gtr and 3mm front and 6mm offset in the rear looks the best. I have 9mm wheels and they actually stick out of the body quite a bit however if I put my 70 hpi challenger or my big skyline they will take 6mm in the front and 9mm in the rear no problem.
Hi guys,
I'm from Australia and have been trying to get a part but I keep being told that it's discontinued so I was just hoping someone could help me out here. The part I'm after is the centre bulkhead (part no. 31105) . PM me if you can help in anyway.
Cheers guys
I'm from Australia and have been trying to get a part but I keep being told that it's discontinued so I was just hoping someone could help me out here. The part I'm after is the centre bulkhead (part no. 31105) . PM me if you can help in anyway.
Cheers guys
Question for all of you. I am setting up my Factory Team TC4 for a 21.5 foam class at my local track. All the old foam setups I am finding for the car say you should run a diff in the front set it very tight. The car currently has a sold axle in the front, and I would have to track down a diff if I was going to switch to it to match the setups as I bought the car used and it didn't come with it. Do you guys think that it's beneficial to switch to a diff for running foam or will I be okay with the solid axle? It seems that all the rubber setups run the sold axle and all the foam setups run the diff but is there really a big difference?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Shano1,
The part you ask about has been discontinued. I have searched in the past for one without luck. You might have to buy a used FT TC4 to get one.
The part you ask about has been discontinued. I have searched in the past for one without luck. You might have to buy a used FT TC4 to get one.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
when I googled that part no. it came up as the motor mount, is that what you are looking for?
Question for all of you. I am setting up my Factory Team TC4 for a 21.5 foam class at my local track. All the old foam setups I am finding for the car say you should run a diff in the front set it very tight. The car currently has a sold axle in the front, and I would have to track down a diff if I was going to switch to it to match the setups as I bought the car used and it didn't come with it. Do you guys think that it's beneficial to switch to a diff for running foam or will I be okay with the solid axle? It seems that all the rubber setups run the sold axle and all the foam setups run the diff but is there really a big difference?
Yeah plus it holds the centre shaft in place, any suggestions?