300LikesTeam Associated TC4
10-08-2014, 06:28 PM
If you can find parts for the Losi X-S cars, LOSA9852 (Graphite) and LOSA9866 (EA6) .5 degree rear hub carriers placed on the "wrong" side of the car will decrease your rear toe another degree. I do this with my TC3s and I think it will work with the TC4 as well. Losi X-S cars used standard hardware like the TC3/4 and many parts are interchangeable. Some shimming or filing may be required.
10-09-2014, 04:59 AM
I still own a TC4 but it is no longer my primary on-road racer. I keep reading all the tips and mods in here and I don't see a need to go super crazy with mods or upgrades.
I ran my TC4 club racer in a VTA class. I bought some softer springs, the aluminum hinge pin blocks F/R to lower the roll center, the VCS2 shock internals/upgrade, and a set of sway bars F/R. My car was always super competitive among other cars, even modern belt ones. I ran a front spool with TC3 metal dogbones for a while but it chattered like crazy and it just wore the driveshafts out in a hurry. I put the ball diff back in, tightened it down a bunch to make it like a slipper spool, then left it alone.
What I'm trying to say is that the car doesn't need a lot of fancy parts to make it great. I found that if I put in some setup and practice time I got my TC4 to run like I needed it to.
I ran my TC4 club racer in a VTA class. I bought some softer springs, the aluminum hinge pin blocks F/R to lower the roll center, the VCS2 shock internals/upgrade, and a set of sway bars F/R. My car was always super competitive among other cars, even modern belt ones. I ran a front spool with TC3 metal dogbones for a while but it chattered like crazy and it just wore the driveshafts out in a hurry. I put the ball diff back in, tightened it down a bunch to make it like a slipper spool, then left it alone.
What I'm trying to say is that the car doesn't need a lot of fancy parts to make it great. I found that if I put in some setup and practice time I got my TC4 to run like I needed it to.
10-09-2014, 05:15 AM
10-09-2014, 09:43 AM
10-09-2014, 12:19 PM
I am sure all the upgrades I made were not absolutely required, but I just did not want any stones unturned, and give the tc4 all the chance in the world to succeed...... The tc4.1 is the "truth", and should serve as a guide to tc4 success around the world....
Also, remember that there will always be haters everywhere, and that should never discourage you at all.......
Also, remember that there will always be haters everywhere, and that should never discourage you at all.......
I still own a TC4 but it is no longer my primary on-road racer. I keep reading all the tips and mods in here and I don't see a need to go super crazy with mods or upgrades.
I ran my TC4 club racer in a VTA class. I bought some softer springs, the aluminum hinge pin blocks F/R to lower the roll center, the VCS2 shock internals/upgrade, and a set of sway bars F/R. My car was always super competitive among other cars, even modern belt ones. I ran a front spool with TC3 metal dogbones for a while but it chattered like crazy and it just wore the driveshafts out in a hurry. I put the ball diff back in, tightened it down a bunch to make it like a slipper spool, then left it alone.
What I'm trying to say is that the car doesn't need a lot of fancy parts to make it great. I found that if I put in some setup and practice time I got my TC4 to run like I needed it to.
I ran my TC4 club racer in a VTA class. I bought some softer springs, the aluminum hinge pin blocks F/R to lower the roll center, the VCS2 shock internals/upgrade, and a set of sway bars F/R. My car was always super competitive among other cars, even modern belt ones. I ran a front spool with TC3 metal dogbones for a while but it chattered like crazy and it just wore the driveshafts out in a hurry. I put the ball diff back in, tightened it down a bunch to make it like a slipper spool, then left it alone.
What I'm trying to say is that the car doesn't need a lot of fancy parts to make it great. I found that if I put in some setup and practice time I got my TC4 to run like I needed it to.
10-09-2014, 12:39 PM
On top of these upgrades, I added:
* make the 1380gram minimum weight with light lipo packs...
* use blitz gsf ultra light body(65g) vs pf lwt(91g)....
* use irs aluminum input shafts, ewhippler CF driveshaft, ceramic bearings...
* tweak your swaybars, and tweak your car with four scales only.
* make sure all electronics are flat on the chassis, and wires are tied down...
* use R1 wurks fan on your motor...
* always use a gforce supercapacitor on your esc...
* use a protek 160ss servo (0.05 sec/125oz torque)...
* Practice incessantly......
* gear your 17.5t(12.5mm rotor) 3.19fdr to 3.35fdr.......
* make the 1380gram minimum weight with light lipo packs...
* use blitz gsf ultra light body(65g) vs pf lwt(91g)....
* use irs aluminum input shafts, ewhippler CF driveshaft, ceramic bearings...
* tweak your swaybars, and tweak your car with four scales only.
* make sure all electronics are flat on the chassis, and wires are tied down...
* use R1 wurks fan on your motor...
* always use a gforce supercapacitor on your esc...
* use a protek 160ss servo (0.05 sec/125oz torque)...
* Practice incessantly......
* gear your 17.5t(12.5mm rotor) 3.19fdr to 3.35fdr.......
Off the top of my head, there is a list of major improvements possible in the tc4 , from front to rear:
#1 : Parma bumper + ntc3 reinforcements(overkill)
#2 : front hinge pin blocks#31064 and #31065(no shims)
#3 : run Teflon Bearings on axles #6906
#4 : front LCD drives #losa3344
#5 : dremel servo saver bolt for clearance
#6 : dremel steering turnbuckle for clearance
#7 : run black swaybar up front and back
#8 : use RPM ballcups all over
#9 : use lightweight electronics and lipos
#10 : use trf shocks or AE shocks with yokomo bladders
#11 : take the foam out of the driveshaft input cups
#12 : make sure track width is 190mm(use #6 washers)
#13 : shave axle stubs sticking out
#14 : use IRS aluminum spool & diff outdrives
#15 : dremel battery compartment stubs flat
#16 : dremel chassis under pinion gear
#17 : cut battery foam spacer so it won't rub the driveshaft
#18 : use rear hinge pin blocks#31066 & #31068(no shims)
#19 : make wheelbase close to the shortest possible
#20 : make droop only 1mm to 2mm over rideheight F&R
#21 : use blue front springs and silver tear
#22 : wax/armor all your ride/wheels/body
#23 : Always run 1° to 1.5° rear camber
#24 : make sure you charge up to 8.5volts
#25 : use only AE clamped wheel hexes
That's all I can recall for now....
#1 : Parma bumper + ntc3 reinforcements(overkill)
#2 : front hinge pin blocks#31064 and #31065(no shims)
#3 : run Teflon Bearings on axles #6906
#4 : front LCD drives #losa3344
#5 : dremel servo saver bolt for clearance
#6 : dremel steering turnbuckle for clearance
#7 : run black swaybar up front and back
#8 : use RPM ballcups all over
#9 : use lightweight electronics and lipos
#10 : use trf shocks or AE shocks with yokomo bladders
#11 : take the foam out of the driveshaft input cups
#12 : make sure track width is 190mm(use #6 washers)
#13 : shave axle stubs sticking out
#14 : use IRS aluminum spool & diff outdrives
#15 : dremel battery compartment stubs flat
#16 : dremel chassis under pinion gear
#17 : cut battery foam spacer so it won't rub the driveshaft
#18 : use rear hinge pin blocks#31066 & #31068(no shims)
#19 : make wheelbase close to the shortest possible
#20 : make droop only 1mm to 2mm over rideheight F&R
#21 : use blue front springs and silver tear
#22 : wax/armor all your ride/wheels/body
#23 : Always run 1° to 1.5° rear camber
#24 : make sure you charge up to 8.5volts
#25 : use only AE clamped wheel hexes
That's all I can recall for now....
10-09-2014, 04:43 PM
Tech Apprentice
10-09-2014, 07:01 PM
I had to add an extra shim under the circle block to level out the hinge pins/a-arms in the rear.
10-10-2014, 11:56 AM
Your argument is invalid. I have exactly none of Bert's suggested parts and this is my car rtr for 17.5. I'm actually underweight for one of my tracks that has a 1400g minimum
10-10-2014, 01:29 PM
That scale is off, and the tc4 is not really shown here.....
My upgrades are not a requirement.... They are just suggestions.... Pass you all later on my way to winning the Worlds....
My upgrades are not a requirement.... They are just suggestions.... Pass you all later on my way to winning the Worlds....
10-10-2014, 03:54 PM
B44.3 showed up today... now to see if there is any remote chance that we can get these gear diffs to get crammed into the TC3/4 case without too much grinding ... I'll post up some pictures later with measurements as well.. 
10-11-2014, 07:33 PM
Tech Rookie
I've been looking at getting a TC4 for my first touring car, but my concern is if parts are readily available for this kit? It kind of worries me since it's such an old car. What do you all think?
10-12-2014, 07:06 AM
Guys, please add BERT's steering rack fix to post #12996....
BERT's Steering Rack Fix :
* Use three sizes of shims to take out slop: three 3mm(0.3) shims on the screws, one 5mm(0.2) shim on the pivots, and two 1/4"(#asc6373) shims between the pivots and the swing racks...
* Clean and polish all surfaces with the finest metal polish available....
* Tighten all screws until play is barely visible...
* Use Rpm ballcups ....
BERT's Steering Rack Fix :
* Use three sizes of shims to take out slop: three 3mm(0.3) shims on the screws, one 5mm(0.2) shim on the pivots, and two 1/4"(#asc6373) shims between the pivots and the swing racks...
* Clean and polish all surfaces with the finest metal polish available....
* Tighten all screws until play is barely visible...
* Use Rpm ballcups ....
10-12-2014, 07:15 AM
Hey guys... look what fit's 
there only needs to be a little bit of material removed from the gear diff housing on 4 ribs ( about 2mm worth and does not even come close to effecting the strength of the diff case)
The only other tow issues we might run into is the out drive lengths and proper machining of the input shaft for the bevel gear.. but that is nothing that a lathe can't fix.. other than that your looking at a 2.47 final drive ratio vice the 2.5 and your adding about 10~15Grams per diff
there only needs to be a little bit of material removed from the gear diff housing on 4 ribs ( about 2mm worth and does not even come close to effecting the strength of the diff case)
The only other tow issues we might run into is the out drive lengths and proper machining of the input shaft for the bevel gear.. but that is nothing that a lathe can't fix
.. other than that your looking at a 2.47 final drive ratio vice the 2.5 and your adding about 10~15Grams per diff
10-12-2014, 09:13 AM
That's a pretty tight fit, but it does fit.... Nice work....