peded

iTrader: (7)

I have some questions about body issues.

1. How many holes(range) up do you guys trim your front and rear body posts?

2. How many turns out do you suggest for the diff setting? Front and rear? I'm running in stock foam sedan and plastic gears in both diffs but front has lightend metal outdrives.

3. Do you strip your diff cases alot? I seem to go though mine quick. Any fixes?

Dane

iTrader: (26)

I've always ran them tightened per instructions. The diffs operate very smoothly but if they aren't tightened properly, they will basically turn into a huge grain of sand rolling around in the diff cases. =)

A big problem which unfortunately which was never properly addressed in the TC4 updates is the diff case. The carbon/plastic is somewhat soft so you must use care when you thread screws into them. Use a 4-40 tap and tap the holes in a new piece to help slow the effects of stripping. When you install the screws, place the screw lightly in the case and apply a small amount of pressure with your hex driver and turn the screw counterclockwise. When you feel the screw drop into the hole a bit when you turn, you know the threads are meeting with the threads in the plastic. Also, tighten slowly and be careful not to overtighten. When you feel the screw cinch down, stop and take it back 1/4 of a turn.

You can also revive the countless number of "broken cases" that you and everyone else owns with this car. Pour CA into the holes and fill it to the top. Rethreading will be a pain but save you some money on this stupid and annoying problem.

Hope this helps.

BTW - ShaunMac - where you been man? Long time to chat! How was the holiday?

Brandon Melton

iTrader: (7)

The plastic diffs must be loosened more than the steel from full tight setting. It is not uncommon to have to turn the plastic diffs out 1 full turn from locked to achieve proper action. You have to back off the plastic ones more because the plastic gets drawn into each other before the diff spring compresses fully. This doesn't mean it's ran looser, just needs to back the screw out more.

Just make sure you can't easily turn one tire while holding the other tire and spur gear. Theoretically you shouldn't be able to turn it but with the plastic ones you would break the outdrive trying to hard, lol.

Here is a set-up I ran today on FT TC4 on the new age carpet with Paragon and it was really good. Easy to drive, and at one point had too much steering it would traction roll.

Front:
70wt oil #2 piston
30 lb. spring
3rd hole in on tower, inside on arm
1 hole out with black ball stud for camber link
4deg castor
.025 rear shim, and .050 front shim (small amount of kick up)
silver sway bar
2 washers on bell crank with silver stud
1 bump steer washer
outer hole in steering nuckle
-2 deg camber

Rear:
50wt oil #2 piston
25 lb spring
2nd hole in on tower, outside on arm
Longest link (black ball stud) on bulkhead but short at hub carrier
2 deg toe
black sway bar
.075 shims (3tabs) front and rear
-2 deg camber

This was the best the car has felt. I use double pink rear and double pink orange fronts. Sauced tire all the way to orange ring, and full rear.

peded

iTrader: (7)

Is that setup above for stock foam?

Also how many holes up do you guys trim your body post in the rear?

Dane

iTrader: (26)

You mean cut them off? In that case, a couple of holes above where I have it set.

To set them, as long as the bod doesn't rub on the tires, you're fine. Go as low as you can go.

ShaunMac

Been racing carpet in Trenton. Going to Orlando in Feb so I need all the track time on carpet I can get.

You should come up and race if you can make it.

Dane

iTrader: (26)

Nice - good luck up in Orlando - I've always wanted to go and someday will.

I'll be coming back for asphalt season as getting to Sugarbowl is easier. I'm catching the bug with the new AE car and can't wait to dust off my stuff and have a nice, long season.

Catcha' 'round.

ShaunMac

There might be a new asphalt track in Trenton when the outdoor season starts up again. It will be the perfect size for Touring cars. It's still pending.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Its good to see ya come back to your roots Brandon. Have ya talked to KT lately?

Dane

iTrader: (26)

Cool - is Trenton a bad trip from Atlanta?

ShaunMac

It's about 2 1/2 hours depending on traffic and the weight of your foot!

Carpet racing is a blast!

kytan

iTrader: (4)

Got a Airtronics/Sanwa ERG-WRX servo from a friend and connected to my car. When I turned the power on, there's a constant vibrating sound coming from the servo and when I connect it to the steering and turned the steering, the servos seems weak compared to my Futaba S3003. And the ESC is giving funny behaviour as well. I'm using LRP IPC V6.

What could be wrong?

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Does it make the buzzing sound when attached to the steering linkage, or does it buzz all the time with no servo horn attached? If it is NOT attached to the steering linkage and it buzzes all the time, then the potentiometer is most likely shot in the servo, and it should be replaced or repaired. If it only buzzes when it is attached to the steering linkage then either something is binding in your steering linkage and/or it IS a weak servo and it just doesnt have the strength to move the linkage completely to neutral, again, check to be sure your steering linkage moves freely back and forth without the servo attached. If everything moves fine with minimal binding, and the servo still buzzes, you might want to check into a better servo. Something in your price range with a minimum of 75oz/in of torque, and a transit speed of your choice would be a wise investment. One of the first and best upgrades to your TC, next to driving/practice time, it a good solid servo.

AssocRacer

iTrader: (10)

sounds to me like a bad servo. I would choose the Futaba 9451 servo, cost about 80 bucks, and it's got a .1 transit speed, which is pretty fast for the price.

Brandon Melton

iTrader: (7)

It works good in all forms, I tried it in stock, 19, and mod. In mod I was saucing the whole front tire even the orange.