300LikesTeam Associated TC4
07-25-2005, 09:14 PM
#5776
Well, I'm still a rookie.
It could be that the chassis is tweaked. One thing to do is not tighten down the battery strap too much. The heat and the expanding of the battery can warp the chassis. Make sure the is some wiggle room between the battery and the strap. I have never had a "perfect" molded chassis and there has always been some wiggle on a flat surface. My guess would be the shock lengths or incorrect droop. The hooking during braking could just be lack of rear traction. Are you using a oneway?
07-25-2005, 09:15 PM
#5777
How long are associated springs? In metric or standard.
07-25-2005, 09:26 PM
#5778
AndrewD...
I'm running nearly the same setup. One thing I found is that the TC4 doesn't like a short wheel base. It makes the car hard to drive and if your new, I would go back to the longest wheel base. Is your track real smooth, is it a tight track? I run on med grip, tight, ozite track. I don't run any shims under the toe blocks, because my track is smooth. I also run three shims under the front inside camber link and two in the rear. I'm running purple and plaid tires though. I need less side bite. I like two shims on the steering rack and two shims for bump steer. I also like the car with a long front camber link. Unless your real smooth the longer link helps. You may also want to try two front shims and one rear. A roll center setup change you may want to try.
07-25-2005, 11:28 PM
#5779
@rcKnight-I am not using a oneway. I am all for experimenting with the set up, but I have rebuilt this car twice now with two set ups with the same problem . . .so once I get the problem fixed I'll worry about fine tuning the setup. I may use your suggestions after I get this pull eliminated. When the guy at my track got my car tracking straight I know he didn't adjust the shock length, but when the digital calipers come in in a few days I will check them more accurately. I just rebuilt them today. In fact I went throught everything today and matched it exactly to the set up sheet I posted earlier. Check out the date on it 
As for the droop, if I back the screws all the way out and still have the pull is it safe to assume that the droop is not the problem? I will try loosening the battery strap. It seems that the car pulls the same amount to the left on aceleration as it does to the right on braking. Still fishing for this elusive problem. Its so strange that it is so regular after rebuilding teh whole car, changing set ups and rebuilding the shocks. Thhis is why I am thinking chassis, as it is a constant in all of this. Thanks agin for the thoughts RCKNIGHT. Keep'em coming. we'll figure this out if it kills me.
Andrew
As for the droop, if I back the screws all the way out and still have the pull is it safe to assume that the droop is not the problem? I will try loosening the battery strap. It seems that the car pulls the same amount to the left on aceleration as it does to the right on braking. Still fishing for this elusive problem. Its so strange that it is so regular after rebuilding teh whole car, changing set ups and rebuilding the shocks. Thhis is why I am thinking chassis, as it is a constant in all of this. Thanks agin for the thoughts RCKNIGHT. Keep'em coming. we'll figure this out if it kills me.Andrew
07-25-2005, 11:51 PM
#5780
Hey,
How thick are the shims underneath the camber link? And how thick are the shims for underneath the pivot blocks? (the setup sheet leaves me to believe there seperate square, circle, triangle and X shims?...how do you tell the difference? are they just shaped differently)
I haven't gotten my car yet so I'm not clear on these things yet....Thanks!
-Dan
How thick are the shims underneath the camber link? And how thick are the shims for underneath the pivot blocks? (the setup sheet leaves me to believe there seperate square, circle, triangle and X shims?...how do you tell the difference? are they just shaped differently)
I haven't gotten my car yet so I'm not clear on these things yet....Thanks!
-Dan
Last edited by BlackKat; 07-26-2005 at 11:20 AM.
07-26-2005, 12:11 AM
#5781
Andrew. I had a similar problem with a customer TC4 recently. Same thing- pulls one way on acceleration and the other on decelleration.
I eventually found it was play in the drive train. His IRS spoolhad worn badly on one side, so when he accelerated, for a split second one side was driving whilst the other was free. We replaced the spool and the problem was solved.
This can easily be happening with your CVDs. Check them out to see that They are both assembled right and both have the same amount of free play. And while you're at it, have a look at the back ones too.
I eventually found it was play in the drive train. His IRS spoolhad worn badly on one side, so when he accelerated, for a split second one side was driving whilst the other was free. We replaced the spool and the problem was solved.
This can easily be happening with your CVDs. Check them out to see that They are both assembled right and both have the same amount of free play. And while you're at it, have a look at the back ones too.
07-26-2005, 04:11 AM
#5782
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
This is killing me. 
I have gone through my car twice and can't seem to get rid of this problem. When I accelerate, the car pulls hard left. When I brake, it pulls hard right. 
I have double checked my set up repeatedly. I am fairly certain that my tweak is the problem, although at this point I'm open to ANY suggestions. I have the ride height at 4.5mm, the camber all around at -1.5, the droop is set to 5 all the way around, and the toe is 0 in the front and 2.0 in the rear. Ill post the set up Im using in hopes someone can spot what I have missed repeatedly. The really frustrating part is that last week a veteran driver looked over my car and wrenched on it for a bit and eliminated the pull. At that time though, I had a set up that didn't have enough rear traction. . .I was sliding all around the track. So I switched to a proven set up for my track and now the pulling problem is back. I didnt get a chance to see exactly what he did, so now I'm stuck. I do know he was using a tweak board. So please . . .anyone . . .have some mercy on a rookie driver . . .what do I do? 
(I have intentionally refrained from listing all the things that I "know" it isn't becasue I know it must be some little thing I have over looked. I am open to any and all suggestions no matter how small, dumb, or complicated.
THE END (whew what a book I wrote!!)
Thankfully hopefull
Andrew
I have gone through my car twice and can't seem to get rid of this problem. When I accelerate, the car pulls hard left. When I brake, it pulls hard right. I have double checked my set up repeatedly. I am fairly certain that my tweak is the problem, although at this point I'm open to ANY suggestions. I have the ride height at 4.5mm, the camber all around at -1.5, the droop is set to 5 all the way around, and the toe is 0 in the front and 2.0 in the rear. Ill post the set up Im using in hopes someone can spot what I have missed repeatedly. The really frustrating part is that last week a veteran driver looked over my car and wrenched on it for a bit and eliminated the pull. At that time though, I had a set up that didn't have enough rear traction. . .I was sliding all around the track. So I switched to a proven set up for my track and now the pulling problem is back. I didnt get a chance to see exactly what he did, so now I'm stuck. I do know he was using a tweak board. So please . . .anyone . . .have some mercy on a rookie driver . . .what do I do? (I have intentionally refrained from listing all the things that I "know" it isn't becasue I know it must be some little thing I have over looked. I am open to any and all suggestions no matter how small, dumb, or complicated.THE END (whew what a book I wrote!!)
Thankfully hopefull
Andrew
07-26-2005, 04:25 AM
#5783
hey guys i was thinking about purchasing a TC4 for 540pro and i have read that to be able to fit a 540j motor your have to dremil out the motor mount. have any of you guys had any trouble with mounting 540j motors?
07-26-2005, 05:24 AM
#5784
Adjusting droop and height
I was following hHara and moore's set up for the front droop which is 6.5 and ride height which is 4.5, but when I adjusted the droop to 6.5 and try to adjust the height the spring is so compress but still could not get the 4.5 height, do I have to readjust the droop to a lower value and then adjust the height again? I'm using a white springs in the front and CS27 tires.
07-26-2005, 06:06 AM
#5785
Originally Posted by GCT69
I was following hHara and moore's set up for the front droop which is 6.5 and ride height which is 4.5, but when I adjusted the droop to 6.5 and try to adjust the height the spring is so compress but still could not get the 4.5 height, do I have to readjust the droop to a lower value and then adjust the height again? I'm using a white springs in the front and CS27 tires.
180SX. It's an easy mod. All you need to do is enlarge the hole in the motor cam - 5 minute job with a drill.
07-26-2005, 07:11 AM
#5786
Tech Adept
Tony P: When is the car going to be ready for team drivers?
DS
DS
07-26-2005, 07:27 AM
#5787
Originally Posted by 180sx
hey guys i was thinking about purchasing a TC4 for 540pro and i have read that to be able to fit a 540j motor your have to dremil out the motor mount. have any of you guys had any trouble with mounting 540j motors?
Yes, you need to enlarge the hole where the can sets inside of the motor cam...
07-26-2005, 07:32 AM
#5788
Originally Posted by johnbull
Hara and Moore run HB Cyclones. Their geometry is probably very different to the TC4. May I suggest you copy a good set up out of the many in the AE webpage or Tony Phalan's Competition X.
180SX. It's an easy mod. All you need to do is enlarge the hole in the motor cam - 5 minute job with a drill.
180SX. It's an easy mod. All you need to do is enlarge the hole in the motor cam - 5 minute job with a drill.
07-26-2005, 09:11 AM
#5790
Tech Legend
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If I put spacers under the front camber links will that give me a little more steering overall?