johnbull

I've had the kit a couple of months but have not yet assembled it for 2 reasons.

The first: I still haven't got all the graphite / alloy bits I want. Still missing chassis kit, hard hinge pins and roll bars.

The second; Son Josh is still winning and breaking lap records easily with his 5 year old TC3 so there's really no hurry.

I have however been playing with some bits. For example, I have built up 2 diffs, both with ceramic bearings and IRS bits. Front is a spool and rear IRS outputs. I also used TIR titanium layshafts.

The diff assemblies, in their cases, have now run on the bench for about 4 hours, and yes, they have freed up and gone quite a bit quieter. I actually have 2 shims on one side of each diff pushing the crownwheel closer to the pinion and they are still reasonably free, but at a later date I will also try removing one from each. The layshafts are shimmed as per the book.

I have also built up a set of shocks using the AE unobtainium shafts and Yokomo alloy CGM diaphram top caps. I have been using this system for the last couple of years and they work great.

Now I'm just waiting for the rest of the bits.

Gilles (Utieh) What's the significance of the Mini on your avatar ?
I have had Mini Coopers and raced them for over 40 years.

Tbevofreak

I agree with you MartynD, I just like to show of at the track when the drivetrain spins for half an hour

I ran the car again today its amazing, with the manual setup its easy to drive and nice and smooth

I need to get some weight off, what the best upgrades to lighten the car
I read the carbon parts aren't that much lighter, but I guess it makes the car more stiffer

I'll get the blue batterie bar and screw, I think it mentaly helps to have a good looking car

Cheers!

MartynD

Well TBevo, when I compare my car at 1639g to a friend's at 1506g...

The differences between mine and his are:

I have a huge front bumper, and lightened steel front diff (rr is plastic)
I now have replaced the rear arm blocks with the bling.
I run a TC2 ESC
I have a reinforced beater body on mine (HPI Stratus)
standard Airtronics servo
sway bar on front

His:

All the carbon parts
All the bling (blue alu parts)
A GTX ESC I believe
He has the fan duct kit installed but no fans
Stock bumper, and I am unsure which diffs he is running. I think he may have a one way in front and stock in rear.
A blitz Mazda 6 body
not sure what servo he runs
Oh yeah he has the blue screw kit as well
sway bar on frt and rear

So thats about $200cdn for me to shed 133g, and at my skill level.. (6 weeks driving a TC) its not worth it. Though I will steadily collect the bits over time.

utieh

iTrader: (3)

I just love Minis but the only one I can afford is a RC one,mostly because renting a parking place in Paris is very expensive and I would never let my Mini out by night Do you still own one???Do you have some picture???

Andy M

My TC4 weighs around 1557g

Its completely stock except for Ti Turnbuckles, Alloy Screws and Graphite Wishbones.

Running an XXL and GTX inside.

Hopefully with the full carbon kit I'll get it under the magic 1500 and then play with the weight distribution.

Andy

Tbevofreak

Thanks for all the info!

Basically, with some good upgrades you can make as light as any other TCar,cool..

After 3-4 runs, there's some noise coming out of the 2 gear boxes I think I need to take out more shims off the shaft and add some lube

Do you think noise obviously means the mesh isn't correct?

I also have the feeling the run time is a little reduced compared to my evo3 SL, do you think its due to the weight or drivetrain?


Thanks, you guys are great!

MartynD

As far as lube goes, I just used a model paint brush and brushed stealth diff lube very light onto the diff and input shaft gears.

I find if I spin the wheels by hand I hear gear noise, if I run the car, especially with a larger (28T) pinion the car is very quiet.

Sorry I have nothing to compare as far as runtime goes, except my M03 +) though I can't use my good packs in it.

runnin rc10

iTrader: (1)

When you go to shim the diffs to make a better mesh. Is it like setting gear mesh with your pinion and spur? Do you want a mesh taht isnt over tight or loose but has a slight bit of play? I want to start shimming to keep the car a little quieter and see if I can get it any more free.

Andy M

Yes, I hold my dif gear and rock the internal pinion slightly, if you can see it making a clear mesh with the teeth and not binding at all then you are onto a winner.

Roberto Falcon

iTrader: (18)

i didnt shim my diff box the only place i did was the back diff on the left bearing if your looking the car from the back . thats the only place that i have one of those sliver shims to space out the gears alittle.

runnin rc10

iTrader: (1)

I ran my TC3 with no shims to get it free, but I want to get rid of the noise with this car. I could care less if I lose a few seconds of free spin for the sound. It already spins for about 10 seconds when you do it right.

Roberto Falcon

iTrader: (18)

i dont think nothing will stop that noise! do you have grease on the gears?

utieh

iTrader: (3)

I'm using Paragon dry thingy on mine, helps a bit

Tbevofreak

I took out almost all of the shims now, its strange cuz every time I took off a shim the drivetrain got more free, the stock shimming makes the drivetrain way too stiff! Wonder why AE says to do it that way?A drivetrain always needs a little play

The noise reduced also

My car weighs 1474kg with batteries, quantum pro, servo, receiver, motor BUT without body (still working on it)

Whats the average weight of a body?

See ya!

Andy M

I think about 60g painted but I may be wrong.