BMI 1/12 conversion/car
09-02-2004, 07:57 PM
#46
Originally posted by rayhuang
I dont think the cars overweight. In fact I know Wayne and Jason wont let that happen. Its light where it needs to be.
Theres a bunch of little features that arent apparent in pics. You got to hold it in your hand. Its got cool touches like mounting holes for L4 servo mounts-or for flat mounting and its already relieved under the servo saver if you do mount the servo flat.
What else did I see..... OH yeah-its got mounting holes in the frnt for your personal transponder. And more than one set if you want to shift that ounce of weight forward or back a bit.
Underneath the car where the batteries sit-its relieved a tiny bit so the servo tape doesnt hang below the chassis.
It also has slightly revised wheelbase and track to optimize handling. And I also think Wayne said its giog to be designed to alllow running larger pinions on a set spur size so you dont have to change spurs to run larger pinions!!
Wayne-Great news-the sooner you ive it the OK-the sooner I can get mine shipped and built.
I dont think the cars overweight. In fact I know Wayne and Jason wont let that happen. Its light where it needs to be.
Theres a bunch of little features that arent apparent in pics. You got to hold it in your hand. Its got cool touches like mounting holes for L4 servo mounts-or for flat mounting and its already relieved under the servo saver if you do mount the servo flat.
What else did I see..... OH yeah-its got mounting holes in the frnt for your personal transponder. And more than one set if you want to shift that ounce of weight forward or back a bit.
Underneath the car where the batteries sit-its relieved a tiny bit so the servo tape doesnt hang below the chassis.
It also has slightly revised wheelbase and track to optimize handling. And I also think Wayne said its giog to be designed to alllow running larger pinions on a set spur size so you dont have to change spurs to run larger pinions!!
Wayne-Great news-the sooner you ive it the OK-the sooner I can get mine shipped and built.
but i just ordered a calandra
09-03-2004, 03:15 AM
#49
Ray hit alot of points... There will be 2 "pockets" for lightening, one in front by the servo, which also acts as clearance for the servo saver if you mount the servo flat (I would recomend it) and another pocket under the t-plate... There is no other room to put any more pockets in the chassis. At some points it's a half inch narrower then the L4.
One other big point in which I liked, the body mount position is wider, longer, and adjustable in the rear. I had more downforce and my light weight body lasted longer!! (more support)
-Wayne
One other big point in which I liked, the body mount position is wider, longer, and adjustable in the rear. I had more downforce and my light weight body lasted longer!! (more support)
-Wayne
09-03-2004, 03:39 AM
#50
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
Wayne:
Hi,
Have you tried the old skool front end on your new car??? just wondering as Chuck and a few fast guys are running it.
Your and Jason's 1/12th scale looks awsome.I hope we can get enough good peeps to run it up here in Mi along with the sedans.
I'm even thinking of one for Mini (my son also named Jason). as he has been looking at the car since the pics were posted......and he's buging me about running 1/12th scale again soon somewhere.
Ray:
Please send the info we need to get you your stuff....never mind. old age has struck again. Pat will send out a M.O. today (Friday....I think)
Brian:
Get in line..... J/K
Raving Monkey:
you could SELL your CRC!!!!!!!
Thanks
Hi,
Have you tried the old skool front end on your new car??? just wondering as Chuck and a few fast guys are running it.
Your and Jason's 1/12th scale looks awsome.I hope we can get enough good peeps to run it up here in Mi along with the sedans.
I'm even thinking of one for Mini (my son also named Jason). as he has been looking at the car since the pics were posted......and he's buging me about running 1/12th scale again soon somewhere.
Ray:
Please send the info we need to get you your stuff....never mind. old age has struck again. Pat will send out a M.O. today (Friday....I think)
Brian:
Get in line..... J/K
Raving Monkey:
you could SELL your CRC!!!!!!!
Thanks
09-03-2004, 05:19 AM
#52
Originally posted by sg1
If you guys have any questions feel free to ask or give any input...
-Wayne
If you guys have any questions feel free to ask or give any input...
-Wayne
take care
john
09-03-2004, 06:08 AM
#53
Hey John...
That barce is out of 2.5mm and there are 4 standoffs and you can even put another one in under the ball stud to the chassis. The brace is rigid, and there is minimum flex. I tried the 2 brace set up like the 12L4, but the short standoff between the top and bottom brace stripped out, So I thought this would help solve the problem along with change the shock angle so you wouldn't have to change ball studs and shim it up to get the angle needed with this more rigid chassis.
-Wayne
That barce is out of 2.5mm and there are 4 standoffs and you can even put another one in under the ball stud to the chassis. The brace is rigid, and there is minimum flex. I tried the 2 brace set up like the 12L4, but the short standoff between the top and bottom brace stripped out, So I thought this would help solve the problem along with change the shock angle so you wouldn't have to change ball studs and shim it up to get the angle needed with this more rigid chassis.
-Wayne
09-03-2004, 10:57 AM
#55
Battery Brace.
Is there any thoughts about adding a battery "strap" made from carbon fiber and a couple posts? I'm not a huge fan of taping. ( I know, lame excuse ) I've got a CK3.1 now and like not having the tape. I also enjoy the way the knife handles. However, I've seen Jason's craftmanship (I have a etc3 blue kit) adn think he makes good upgrades for cars. I'd be interested in changing (since I'm thinking of a new CK3.2 anyway) and going w/a L4 instead. What I have in mind is (4) standoffs and (2) mini battery braces on top screwed into the standoffs. (just like the tc3...just smaller) I don't think this would add too much weight, and would hold the batteries securly in place. I'm thinking I've seen something like this on another t-bar car but can't remember which one.
Last edited by acyrier; 09-03-2004 at 11:14 AM.
09-03-2004, 11:22 AM
#56
acyrier - The T-Fource uses two small graphite plates to hold the batteries in. From what I've heard they don't hold the batteries in tightly enough though...
09-03-2004, 11:35 AM
#57
Fatdoggy...
You're right... I tried numerous hold downs.... graphite brace, plastic brace, and o-rings but they all let the batteries move and when the batteries were secure enough the chassis was tweeked from too much pressure across the top of the batteries. I hate to say it but taping to me is the best way to hold the batteries and not tweek the chassis. If you have some type of battery cup or tray like the L4 which supports the batteries more you may be able to get away with some type of strap. Just my .02 cents...
-Wayne
You're right... I tried numerous hold downs.... graphite brace, plastic brace, and o-rings but they all let the batteries move and when the batteries were secure enough the chassis was tweeked from too much pressure across the top of the batteries. I hate to say it but taping to me is the best way to hold the batteries and not tweek the chassis. If you have some type of battery cup or tray like the L4 which supports the batteries more you may be able to get away with some type of strap. Just my .02 cents...
-Wayne
09-03-2004, 11:37 AM
#58
I could see how that could happen. I was just thinking that w/the batteries sitting low enough in the chassis itself, they may sit better. I also know it helps when you assemble your packs, if they sit "level" vs kinda 1/2 a$$ twisted it helps them seat better also.
09-03-2004, 01:29 PM
#59
Acyrier,
If the batteries were nested all around by the chassis it may work.... It's hard to see in the pics posted, but the batteries on the BMI chassis sit in a milled slot which makes 3 point contact (side, bottom, and side). We left material under the battery (.02" thick) to keep the chassis as solid as possible for carpet racing. Then added a small channel (.01"dp.) on the bottom for the battery tape to sit flush with the bottom of the chassis (no dragging).
-Wayne
If the batteries were nested all around by the chassis it may work.... It's hard to see in the pics posted, but the batteries on the BMI chassis sit in a milled slot which makes 3 point contact (side, bottom, and side). We left material under the battery (.02" thick) to keep the chassis as solid as possible for carpet racing. Then added a small channel (.01"dp.) on the bottom for the battery tape to sit flush with the bottom of the chassis (no dragging).
-Wayne
09-04-2004, 05:52 PM
#60
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
Wayne:
Hi,
thanks for the post. after seeing the newer front end on your car I think that's the way we'll go. Jason (my son aka Mini) is bugging me to get one before we go to Cleveland. as he was bored only running one class last year. after talking to Ray about how it drove I know I will be getting soon....... now all I need to do is make more room for another car in my collection.
Thanks
Hi,
thanks for the post. after seeing the newer front end on your car I think that's the way we'll go. Jason (my son aka Mini) is bugging me to get one before we go to Cleveland. as he was bored only running one class last year. after talking to Ray about how it drove I know I will be getting soon....... now all I need to do is make more room for another car in my collection.
Thanks