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Losi 1/8 Truggies..Just how much better is the 2.0 than the 1.0?

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Old 03-11-2011, 08:05 AM
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Whats the deal with this chasis? http://www.ampdraw.com/product.php?u...roductid=10470
Is it for the 1.0 or the 2.0?
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:06 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by abqNitro
So I have been digging and digging to find out just how much better the Losi 2.0 Truggy is over the 1.0 Truggy. I am running into small details about this change is better and that change is better but nothing in real detail.. I even tried to find videos on YouTube that show the two racing against each other and after several pages I can't find any.. So my question is directed to those of you that own, or have owned both.. How much better is the 2.0? I ask because I just recently got into 1/8 scale Truggy racing (I am new to RC Racing in general) and built up a 1.0 because it was cheaper.. But I have been loosing sleep over wondering about weather or not the 2.0 is far superior or not.. In equally capable hands, with the same engine, which one wins and by how much?
WAY BETTER
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Old 03-11-2011, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by abqNitro
Whats the deal with this chasis? http://www.ampdraw.com/product.php?u...roductid=10470
Is it for the 1.0 or the 2.0?
That's for the 1.0. the 2.0 Flex tune chassis are black.
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Old 03-11-2011, 11:34 AM
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Stay away from the Dragon racing chassis! Total GARBAGE! Not recommended.


Honestly it isn't worth it to do the conversion. It is too expensive if you really want to do the whole conversion.

You need...
Chassis($100+ by itself)
Rear shocks
Shock towers
Shock springs
Arms
Rear center shaft
All 4 wheel shafts(axles)
Brake pads and discs
complete set of turnbuckles(Front upper, Rear upper and Steering)
Radio tray
Throttle linkage
Rear hubs
Front spindle carriers
Rear gearbox
Body
Body mounts

I'm sure I missed so me stuff, but bottom line is if you want to actually do it right you might as well just buy a new 2.0 because you will spend close to that anyway and get less.
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Old 03-11-2011, 12:02 PM
  #20  
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the thing you could do is upgrade the 1.0 t to a 2.0 t little by little but really i whould just get the 2.0 t roller gs hobby has one for $475 when you add it to the cart .
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
Stay away from the Dragon racing chassis! Total GARBAGE! Not recommended.


Honestly it isn't worth it to do the conversion. It is too expensive if you really want to do the whole conversion.

You need...
Chassis($100+ by itself)
Rear shocks
Shock towers
Shock springs
Arms
Rear center shaft
All 4 wheel shafts(axles)
Brake pads and discs
complete set of turnbuckles(Front upper, Rear upper and Steering)
Radio tray
Throttle linkage
Rear hubs
Front spindle carriers
Rear gearbox
Body
Body mounts

I'm sure I missed so me stuff, but bottom line is if you want to actually do it right you might as well just buy a new 2.0 because you will spend close to that anyway and get less.
just asking cuz i didnt get this stuff or is it just to make a true 2.0?
why do you need the,
radio tray
Throttle linkage
rear hubs
front spindle carriers
rear gearbox
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:09 PM
  #22  
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claycity: you, can get by just getting the 2.0 t chassis and longer rear center shaft and 2.0 t body/2.0 t body mounts i dont know it would handle though with the 1.0 t supension.
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:15 PM
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I got the arms I did go longer and wider it looks like a 2.0. Was just wondering if there was any benefit of what he listed?
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by claycity
I got the arms I did go longer and wider it looks like a 2.0. Was just wondering if there was any benefit of what he listed?


you whould have to ask him .

i do know the 2.0 radio tray is better than the 1.0 tray for sure.
you whold have to get the 2.0 linkage with the 2.0 radio tray.
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:25 PM
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what makes the tray better might have to look at getting one LOL
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:27 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by claycity
what makes the tray better might have to look at getting one LOL
you, dont have the flex issue that the 1.0 tray has when i ran my 1.0 t i used a radio tray stiffer and the shock oring under the battery and the rubber grumets to get rid of the flex .

oh and you can use bolts to use the battery cover.
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by claycity
just asking cuz i didnt get this stuff or is it just to make a true 2.0?
why do you need the,
radio tray
Throttle linkage
rear hubs
front spindle carriers
rear gearbox
Radio tray is NOT optional. The 2.0 tray is much improved and definitely an essential part of the truck. While it isn't needed to physically put the truck together, it is very important. The 2.0 tray is much more rigid and helps keep your servos from taking a beating. There are other minor improvements as well.

The rest just add more adjustability to the truck to make it a true 2.0. Rear hubs add camber link holes and also don't need to be drilled out to work with the larger 2.0 hinge pins(which means they won't break like drilled 1.0 hubs do). The front spindle carriers add a camber link hole and also change the geometry a bit. The rear gearbox adds the ability to shim the rear diff, which allows you to tighten things up and make the R&P last longer. All are standard on the 2.0.
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:48 PM
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radio tray got it
rear diff is on the top of my future upgrade list
thanks
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Old 03-12-2011, 07:59 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by claycity


These chassis's are FAR from the performance of the Stock 2.0 chassis. I would look into a real chassis from Losi for your next one.

PS dont be surprised if the chassis bends or tweeks out on you, They are known for it.
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Old 03-12-2011, 05:18 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Integra
These chassis's are FAR from the performance of the Stock 2.0 chassis. I would look into a real chassis from Losi for your next one.

PS dont be surprised if the chassis bends or tweeks out on you, They are known for it.
I would run the rtr chassis before the dragon one
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