Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

I use the tamiy ahaevy duty one atm. works fine. just retighten the springs once in a while. also kawada makes a good one as well.

waiting on the Serpent one...

dameetz

Guys I m having a problem with my car, I don't know if this is normal, I ve been using this car for about 3 months now and I ve never broke anyparts, so everthing are from the out of box parts. The thing is when it was new my car had a very good steering in terms of response as well as radius. At that time I only had to use about 70% of steering throw and the steering was more than enough for my local track which has lots of 180deg tight corners. Week by week I can feel that it was loosing its quick steering response and steering radius especially during slow tight corners, so I began to increase the steering throw to where I wanted it. Now after 3 months using it I m using full throw and still I could not get the feel that this car gave when it was new. I had to brake earlier than I would and still its not turning into the corners tightly. Its like its having a too grippy rear end. For my driving stlye I need the quick response and abundant steering.

This happened at the same track with the same condition as it has been all the time (we only have 1 local track here). I have never change the set up that I have been using since I got it dialed the first time. I do check my set up regularly and make the adjustment to it when it is out. I also do service/clean the bearings and making sure its free, I have changed the shocks oil twice and use the same oil everytime, in other words I do service my car inside out whenerver I feel its needed. The only difference that I notice when it was new and the condition it is right now is all the arms, rear uprights and c-hubs are having play/gap, when it was new everthing were tight and smooth. Could this be the reason to my understeering/response problem? If yes, how often do you guys change these parts to make it in a tip top condition? ....... I m loving this car when it was new coz of all cars here the s411 has the best response/steering and that made me on big advantage now its the other way around If you have any advice pls let me know.....BTW I m using Savox 1251 low profile servo, could this be the culprit also? Maybe its degrading its power or speed?

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

First off I am assuming you are changing tires and not running the same ones since you set the car up.

Couple things thats different for 3 months to now...

Weather is colder so the car will turn less or have less over all traction compared to 3 months ago when the weather was warmer with the same tires.

but I thing the most important thing is that you might actually be faster that you were 3 months ago. there fore you may need to adjust your setting to your current conditions and driving style.

Its easy to get steering out of the S411. I would suggest going back to standard setup and see how that feels than you can make a comparison.

dameetz

Thanks for the input, tyres are the same, been using Much More tyres which really works at my track, I m located near the equator, we do not have 4 seasons here, its always the same all year round. The understeering is very obvious, 3 monts ago i could not drive the car with full steering lock coz it would just slide at the rear, right now, with full lock the rear is still very planted, the car looks very lazy to go into the tight corners. In comparison with other cars (other brands)at my local track, their's have been the same 3 monts ago, now I m the one whos on the disadvantage side. FYI there are only 3 s411 drivers here and I m the first one to have it and frequently practicing with it (almost everyday).Anyway I take your advice to get it back to standard set up.

Thanks again mate.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

also be checking your arms. over time they tend to flex but then not return, and you will find the lower arms , specially at the front will have a bow, or twisted effect. time to replace. original arms after about a month, they did this to me. just have to keep an eye on some parts for wear and tear.

dameetz

Hi mate, I haven't check the arms if they are twisted or not, when u changed yours, did the steering and response came back as if it was new? I m using hard front arms, original plastic C-hub, medium Rear arms and upright. I just want to make sure where the problem came from.

NUCRPTRACER

iTrader: (7)

Lookin at the S411 can anyone give me any info on parts to pick up when i order the car...IE:suspension brackets etc...Runnin on med to med high bite carpet....17.5 blinky and 13.5...Plus how has the parts avalibilty and support been?

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I run either of the Xray servo savers, really like the 4 spring one. I think you can trim some of the bottom of the 4 spring one and get the clearance you will need. I actually put a "moon" cut into the servo plate for servo saver clearance, this works very well and makes for enough room to run just about any of the after market servo savers.

I would pick up some spare arms, although I have only broke a "hard" rear arm and it was on a joint for the track that kind of sticks out just enough to catch the stub. The c-hubs, steering hubs seem pretty strong. Maybe another set of rear uprights, but thats only if you tend to hit boards which, although wont break the upright can pull the upper link screw out sometimes. The only other thing I would pick up for your carpet would be a 1.2 torsion bar, as most of the carpet setups seem to run that bar in the back.

Parts support has been pretty good thru Serpent USA, Desoto Racing. But it looks like there are others carrying the parts as well such as Stormers, A-Main. Some of the option parts are harder to come by, but I think thats because of high demand and that sometimes the press release is out before the actual part is out for general purchasing.

zaraz

iTrader: (38)

what is the trick to build the rear diff, I have tried toothpaste, rubbing compound, etc etc, the gear diff is not smooth, you can still feel the meshing, with the 417x, the diff was smooth as butter, does getting the xceed gears help with smoothness, i know they are lighter, but are they smoother, thanks

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I ended up using a medium valve lapping compound, its pretty gritty though. I took out the seals, and put the diff together with the compound in it, then I put it in a drill press, on low speed, and locked the frre end of the diff up and let it spin for about 3-4 minutes, then turned it over and spun it the other way for the same amount of time. Clean everything up, this is important as the lapping compound is very tough to get cleaned. Now put the diff back together, but I leave out the big washer that goes between the big gear and the o-ring. I use a little bit of green slime on the o-ring and the output shafts and fill the diff with LOSI 90wt oil to the cross shaft pin. I green slime the outer o-ring on the housing and button it all up. The diff is very smooth now, and will spin a couple of rotations if you spin the opposite wheel, like a looser ball diff. So far I have no leaks and it works very well.

A couple of things to take note. The shim washers, the big ones and the little ones when you do the lapping compound break in will actually show the high and low spots of the big and small gears. With that you could possibly get a smooth diff by sanding the backs of the gears, but you will still need to do a slight break in of the gear teeth. If you do the lapping compound you should probably polish the small washers after you break it in, like you would for a ball diff, and polish the cross shaft pin. The small washers are used to set the backlash of the gears, but I don't feel that running without the big shim between the gear and o-ring is a problem, if I could get a washer half as thick I might try that.

I can't stress how abrasive the lapping compound is, so the less time on the drill press the better. The problem is that it could create slop in the bushing part of the gear cases. If I where to do another breakin I would use some cheap o-rings in the cases between the gear and housing just to make sure that none of the compound weeps into that area. Better to be save.

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

the xceed diff gears wont fit directly. you need to do some shaving inside the case to free up the gear. you can use the smaller gears though without mods and makes the feeling smoother, but it will wear out the plastic gears quicker so use caution. the diff is 6gr. lighter witht he 4 plastic xceed gears vs 2 metal ones...

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

If you are running tracks with boards and you guys have bumper car races occasionally then get;

knuckles, rear up rights, suspension arms, c-hubs if you are using the DJC,

tuning things to buy: 3.5 rear block, gray springs, belt tensioner, servo saver, new flex top deck, new steering rack.

we have good stock and our support is excellent

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

is there an english option anywhere on your site?

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

Due to rules and regulations that site needs to stay in turkish but you can always mail me at

[email protected]

also u can use the search section to find the parts you need. Sometimes we get shipments in and it takes a while to update the site so always email me to make sure when ordering outside Turkey.

We are working on the Ebay style shop to service our foreign customers better

fasteddie d

Thanks for the info guys ..Great car with great support .