RedRocket

the collet came with two shims. if i only put one shim behind the flywheel, and tighten the adapter all the way down, the adapter does not touch the flywheel. because the adapter goes all the way down to the bottom threads.so, it is like i need to make the adapter shorter, or the threads on the crank longer. one of the two.

captian

the coller that behind the flywheel to center is it factory? some times its the wrong size

captian

some times the height is the coler it self is it the one that can with the engines ?

pepsidawg

iTrader: (1)

I started to mount my protoform 530 body but it seems that the way prp has the front bumper bent up slightly is keeping the body from sitting low enough. Do I have to modify the bumper to lay flatter? Or am I doing something wrong? Thanks, Kevin Olson

captian

make shore the body mount is not to high and stopping the body from mounting low . you may have too cut the body post to bring the body down . from the pics on the first page it should mount like all the other cars

wagnerov

iTrader: (4)

Most drivers who have used any Lola body on the XR/8 have had to dremel the front body posts a little bit, maybe 1/8" off the bottom. We try to get the front of the body to almost sit on the front shock tower. Cut little notches to allow the bumper to stick out a little bit and you'll be fine...make the cut as rounded as possible to prevent cracking the lexan.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

I cut my front bumper and replaced the front body mounts with shorter ones from some dirt car(really not sure where they came from, they were old useless parts I had floating around). Not sure if you can see from the pics, but my body almost drags the ground it's so low. Only thing is, this is the Audi version of the Lola, so I may be no help at all...

pepsidawg

iTrader: (1)

Just bought an OS 21vz for the xr8. To run 30% fuel will I need to add the extra head shim that came with the engine? The manual says to use up to 30% but does not talk about the extra shim.

duneland

Inspect top of piston & cumbustion chamber after a few tanks. If a san-blasted appearance, add .1mm shim. Blowing plugs when tune is proper, is also a sign of being under-shimmed.

devious17

iTrader: (1)

I recently purchased a used XR8 that comes with a Nova 21Plus 3 engine for a steal. After comparison with the MRX I find the XR8 has a strong resemblence to the MRX4.

The XR8 came with the hop up front and rear lower arms and some metal stuff here and there. I was also told that the part that is prone to malfunction in the event of a crash would be the front bulk as the lower arm is now beefed up.

Been running the 1/10 for quite a while and running the 1/8 is so much more fun. Maiden run last Satuday and I have already snapped an UJ

Anyone ordering their XR8 stuff online? OnLine parts availability is a little hassle for the XR8 I think.

sharkonwheels

iTrader: (1)

So what's the general opinion of the XR/8?

I see that RC-Union.com has them for $288+shipping.


T

ziggy12345

I have a used kit for sale with an engine and a few sets of tyres if somebody wants to make me an offer

Cheers

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

So far everybody who has one, likes it. There's a couple new 8th scale guys that run at our track, in their group there's a Mugen, an Evolva, and an XR80(if I remember correctly). Guess who makes the fastest laps....yup, that RTR... The fastest lap I've seen on that track, was with an XR80(I was the only 8th scale guy for a little while, so none of the 10th scale cars were as fast as my RTR...hehe). You can't beat the price, and they seem to be every bit the "F-1 of RC" that the other brands are.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

I ran practice laps with a guy today who owns the car. Personally we can both agree as others who ran the same car, that it is a mix of the MRX4 and Serpent. Parts are cheap, but it won't be as durable as a Mugen or Kyosho unless you slap on those Teflon plastic parts. Indeed those are NOT cheap as they are great quality machines parts. With that being said it costed him as much as the Mugen kit. Regardless it will match the performance of the other big dogs out there. Swap to the MRX4 centax and get rid of the stock aluminum one.

A fellow racer's XR8

devious17

iTrader: (1)

The A main drivers arond my track was surprised that the XR8 could make them sweat. They all thought I was running a branded kit but later their jaw drop to the tarmac when they saw it was an XR8.

HarKonnenD is right, I have the teflon bits on my XR8 and they are tough, the bulk head breaks instead

I ditched the stock clutch bell for a Serpent ventilated item, the stock bell warped due to heat generated.

My Nova Plus 21-3 already snapped an UJ last week and the replacement was a fraction of the Mugens ..... bliss!